2017 Kia Sportage - P0010 - Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)

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A friend messaged me w.r.t. her vehicle (a 2017 Kia Sportage) running poorly with the CEL on steady (but not flashing).

I read the code (P0010 - Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit), and noted that the idle speed was high (around 1500 RPM), the idle felt perhaps a bit rough, and the coolant in the pressurized reservoir was dancing around quite a bit. No bubbles, but I did wonder.

Our friend also reported that it might have been running hotter than usual, with the needle right at about half rather than the usual 7/16.

The oil showed at least half a litre overfull on the dipstick, making me wonder whether it was diluted with gasoline. (The vehicle is typically short-tripped around town, not exceeding 80 km/hr.)

I cleared the code, restarted the engine, and the vehicle ran fine. Idle was down around 875 RPM and smooth, and the coolant was not jumping around like it had been.

She drove home, the vehicle was fine, but when she went to drive it again, the symptoms all came back - CEL on, and high, rough idle.

Per some online research, oil of the wrong viscosity can cause the VVT actuator(s) to act up. I wonder if the (possibly diluted) oil is at an acceptable viscosity when cold, but thins out too much when the engine is hot.

I also wonder whether the actuator fails such that the camshaft is in its more aggressive mode (that is, I wonder whether it's opening the valves too quickly for too long). If so, that seems like a poor design - I'd way rather lose the high end breathing than the low end.

Thoughts? Thank you in advance!
 
Since the oil is overfilled I would start there. Maybe someone put a gallon of Lucas oil stabilizer in it?

The next option imo would be the actuator.
I figured fuel dilution. I'm assuming GDI, but could be wrong. Regardless, short trips in cold weather will do it, even with MPI.

Edit: I very much doubt they've added any snake oil.
 
the fault is clearly electrical, that's what circuit means. If it was not, it would be a position fault.

Check the wiring for shafing, and in nothing strange is found change the actuator.
 
Is there a way to determine which cam actuator has failed? (It appears there's one on each camshaft - one intake, and one exhaust.)

Am I correct in assuming that these do not "fail safe"? That is, it appears they fail with the camshaft oriented for higher RPM with more aggressive valve opening.

I presume, as well, that it's best to not drive the vehicle with this malfunction.
 
They took the vehicle to the dealer - I'm not aware of all that's involved, but the repair will be about C$5K. Very frustrating, particularly since the expensive extended warranty expired just a few months ago.
 
They took the vehicle to the dealer - I'm not aware of all that's involved, but the repair will be about C$5K. Very frustrating, particularly since the expensive extended warranty expired just a few months ago.
Get a second opinion at an independent import place.
 
To OP, not walterjay as thats what it costs to figure it out if you don't have the scan tool and the mechanical skill. To the OP I was wondering is your friends Kia a sludge machine?

A OEM camshaft imported from Korea by an online Hyundai/Kia discount seller who has rock solid creds sells those for $115 and they ship from Korea and you get them in 4-5 days. A cam actuator is so simple to install it is worth doing a Hail Mary install rather then trusting a Hyundai/Kia dealer to screw you.
 
Get a second opinion at an independent import place.
I'm sure they had already committed to the repair by the time they gave me the update. I did not have time to do any further investigation for them - but it sounds like the issue was much more complicated than just a CVVT actuator
To OP, not walterjay as thats what it costs to figure it out if you don't have the scan tool and the mechanical skill. To the OP I was wondering is your friends Kia a sludge machine?

A OEM camshaft imported from Korea by an online Hyundai/Kia discount seller who has rock solid creds sells those for $115 and they ship from Korea and you get them in 4-5 days. A cam actuator is so simple to install it is worth doing a Hail Mary install rather then trusting a Hyundai/Kia dealer to screw you.
I haven't seen under the hood of the vehicle at all. The owners bought the it c. October or November 2018, and bought a 6-year extended warranty at the same time. They are very conscientious people, and I'm sure had the vehicle serviced by Kia to Kia's requirements so as to keep the warranty valid.

Were the service intervals sufficient to prevent sludge? I don't know.

From the owners:

"It started out with the seals needing to be redone in something. To get to that they had to take apart some other things, and some sprocket was totally worn down that has a bunch of other one-time use parts and seals involved with it. Parts are on back order for a month, and it is not safe to be driven. So $5000 is what we're looking at." 😦
 
The vehicle is repaired and running well. It sounds like the dealership replaced the timing chain and associated components, thus the big repair bill.
 
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