The question is to continue using mobil 1 or change oil brands. If you haven't noticed any oil usage between oil changes, I think perhaps the dealer is observate but no repair is needed quite yet. Tough question! I'm really not an oil expert, but my gut is thinking go w/ a high mileage oil. I'd personally consider the Valvoline.
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1995 Nissan Maxima valves/rear engine seals leak
- Thread starter applesandoranges
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So let me understand the sequence of events
1) You usually go to your mechanic and he changes your oil. You use Mobile 1
2) This time you went to dealer. The dealer scared you by telling you that you have oil leaking from valves and rear engine seals
Now you are running like a chicken with its head cut off even though:-
3) You see no puddle under the car when it is parked
4) Your usual mechanic never noticed any significant leakage to warn you.
Do I need to spell it further?????
1) You usually go to your mechanic and he changes your oil. You use Mobile 1
2) This time you went to dealer. The dealer scared you by telling you that you have oil leaking from valves and rear engine seals
Now you are running like a chicken with its head cut off even though:-
3) You see no puddle under the car when it is parked
4) Your usual mechanic never noticed any significant leakage to warn you.
Do I need to spell it further?????
^^^ Agree.
Additionally, you could go years on that car by doing nothing about the leaks/usage and simply topping off the oil. Why spend $1500 on a car that probably isn't even worth $1500.
I'd go with your earlier idea of a HM oil for you next oil change. I'll let others make their recommendations. I'm using Castrol GTX HM [the worst smelling oil of all time] and have seen a slight improvement so I can't 100% endorse it at this time.
Additionally, you could go years on that car by doing nothing about the leaks/usage and simply topping off the oil. Why spend $1500 on a car that probably isn't even worth $1500.
I'd go with your earlier idea of a HM oil for you next oil change. I'll let others make their recommendations. I'm using Castrol GTX HM [the worst smelling oil of all time] and have seen a slight improvement so I can't 100% endorse it at this time.
I think the car may be "weeping" a tiny bit of oil, BUT it could remain that way for MANY MANY more years, you also mentioned that you don't see any oil drips on the pavement after being parked in the same spot for a long period of time....
I see your situation as NO PROBLEM whatsoever!
Like another poster mentioned... DO NOT change the oil, OR put in a HM product.
Actually I think the Nissan STEALERSHIP was trying to push you in the direction of buying a new car....it wouldn't be the first time or the last that these places pull that nonsense.
I would recommend that you DO NOT go back to that dealer again because next time they might find (create) a obvious leak. !!!
I see your situation as NO PROBLEM whatsoever!
Like another poster mentioned... DO NOT change the oil, OR put in a HM product.
Actually I think the Nissan STEALERSHIP was trying to push you in the direction of buying a new car....it wouldn't be the first time or the last that these places pull that nonsense.
I would recommend that you DO NOT go back to that dealer again because next time they might find (create) a obvious leak. !!!
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applesandoranges
Thread starter
Oh ok! Thanks for all the additional feedback, reassurances, and commentary - it really does help!!
I called Valvoline in Ashland today to get their opinion, and they said to use the Maxlife Full Synthetic or the re-refined Maxllife NextGen and see how it goes for 500miles.
I'm going to hold off from doing anything for the moment as a few of you said, and monitor how things are by checking the dipstick every few days and pay close attention to the ground for any suspect oil drippings. I'll keep in the trunk a quart or two of the regular mobil 1 5w-30 I've been using...
I would have figured the factory nissan dealership would adhere to quality standards as that would be really messed up beyond words - I still wish I had some photos to see of what they were talking about.
4 questions :
1. How often is too often if refilling/topping off? Honestly, I haven't seen the dipstick drop before low all these years to actually have to add oil... so not sure what to expect.
Was there a guide on how much oil to actually add when looking at the dipstick (after engine cooled down/1st thing in the morning)? e.g. if it's near the low hash mark or below it? I don't want to overfill it...
2. Regarding the Liqui-Moly, how do you actually add the 300ml container? Just pour it in? It doesn't have to be done at an actual oil change? I'll hold off on this as suggested to see how a few hundred miles of driving goes, but I wanted to know if you could just add it anytime. Ideally sounds good to be put when changing the regular oil.
3. If all things go as hoped and there aren't any leaks going on... should I ever switch to the HM oils in the future or stick with Mobil 1? I'm at the 162,000miles mark now... not sure how much more I can get out of this provided everything else.
4. Out of curiosity, was auto-rx ever an option in these scenarios? I just saw it mentioned on a few searches...
I called Valvoline in Ashland today to get their opinion, and they said to use the Maxlife Full Synthetic or the re-refined Maxllife NextGen and see how it goes for 500miles.
I'm going to hold off from doing anything for the moment as a few of you said, and monitor how things are by checking the dipstick every few days and pay close attention to the ground for any suspect oil drippings. I'll keep in the trunk a quart or two of the regular mobil 1 5w-30 I've been using...
I would have figured the factory nissan dealership would adhere to quality standards as that would be really messed up beyond words - I still wish I had some photos to see of what they were talking about.
4 questions :
1. How often is too often if refilling/topping off? Honestly, I haven't seen the dipstick drop before low all these years to actually have to add oil... so not sure what to expect.
Was there a guide on how much oil to actually add when looking at the dipstick (after engine cooled down/1st thing in the morning)? e.g. if it's near the low hash mark or below it? I don't want to overfill it...
2. Regarding the Liqui-Moly, how do you actually add the 300ml container? Just pour it in? It doesn't have to be done at an actual oil change? I'll hold off on this as suggested to see how a few hundred miles of driving goes, but I wanted to know if you could just add it anytime. Ideally sounds good to be put when changing the regular oil.
3. If all things go as hoped and there aren't any leaks going on... should I ever switch to the HM oils in the future or stick with Mobil 1? I'm at the 162,000miles mark now... not sure how much more I can get out of this provided everything else.
4. Out of curiosity, was auto-rx ever an option in these scenarios? I just saw it mentioned on a few searches...
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If you aren't seeing any evidence of leaks, your engine is probably leaking only mildly and may have been doing so for some time and miles.
These minor oil leaks will not kill your engine unless you actually run it dry of oil.
I'd just monitor how much oil you're using.
If the amount used is little enough that you don't need to add any oil over the course of your 5K oil changes, then you really don't have a problem.
If consumption is such that you need to add a quart over the same OCI, you still don't have a problem.
Only when the leaks get ridiculous are they a real concern.
As Critic noted, the valve cover gaskets should be pretty easy.
The only hard part about the rear main is getting the transaxle out and then back in, not a trivial task, especially with a heavy automatic.
These minor oil leaks will not kill your engine unless you actually run it dry of oil.
I'd just monitor how much oil you're using.
If the amount used is little enough that you don't need to add any oil over the course of your 5K oil changes, then you really don't have a problem.
If consumption is such that you need to add a quart over the same OCI, you still don't have a problem.
Only when the leaks get ridiculous are they a real concern.
As Critic noted, the valve cover gaskets should be pretty easy.
The only hard part about the rear main is getting the transaxle out and then back in, not a trivial task, especially with a heavy automatic.
Originally Posted By: applesandoranges
Anyways, I want to change out the mobile 1 5-30 synthetic to something, if any of the case above is true.... maybe I can have the local shop take some photos with my phone.
If the leak is this minor, I wouldn't even bother going as far as changing out the M1. Continue to do what you're doing.
Just monitor the oil loss. The manual usually will tell you how much to add when it's at the bottom of (or below) the hash marks. As for how much is acceptable, manufacturers vary on what they consider acceptable. For my own vehicles, having to add any oil over a 3,000 mile period is where I start to get annoyed. However, I have had fleet vehicles burn more than that. The other "annoyance" limit I have is a messy driveway or garage floor. A few drips aren't a big deal, but I don't want messes either.
In any case, a minor leak does not mean your engine is on the way out by any stretch of the imagination.
Anyways, I want to change out the mobile 1 5-30 synthetic to something, if any of the case above is true.... maybe I can have the local shop take some photos with my phone.
If the leak is this minor, I wouldn't even bother going as far as changing out the M1. Continue to do what you're doing.
Just monitor the oil loss. The manual usually will tell you how much to add when it's at the bottom of (or below) the hash marks. As for how much is acceptable, manufacturers vary on what they consider acceptable. For my own vehicles, having to add any oil over a 3,000 mile period is where I start to get annoyed. However, I have had fleet vehicles burn more than that. The other "annoyance" limit I have is a messy driveway or garage floor. A few drips aren't a big deal, but I don't want messes either.
In any case, a minor leak does not mean your engine is on the way out by any stretch of the imagination.
applesandoranges
Thread starter
Okay Garak thanks for the heads up again.
Do you or anyone else know how and when I could add that liquid moly can in case? I think Art Vandalay said to drive it for a while and if things happen otherwise, proceed to option 2 (from a few posts above) which was the liqui-moly oil saver.
Was that product safe to add (whole can of 300ml) to an engine that has 500 miles after the oil change or was it a must to do it at the oil change interval?
I called napa parts earlier in the evening to see if they had any in stock, and apparently they said they had a few different types and weren't too familiar with how it's used - they may have been looking at something else outside the oil saver can.
The company looks like it's in Germany so I couldn't call them outside of emailing I guess. Lastly, I didn't come across on any clear how-to's on using the product from a basic search...
Do you or anyone else know how and when I could add that liquid moly can in case? I think Art Vandalay said to drive it for a while and if things happen otherwise, proceed to option 2 (from a few posts above) which was the liqui-moly oil saver.
Was that product safe to add (whole can of 300ml) to an engine that has 500 miles after the oil change or was it a must to do it at the oil change interval?
I called napa parts earlier in the evening to see if they had any in stock, and apparently they said they had a few different types and weren't too familiar with how it's used - they may have been looking at something else outside the oil saver can.
The company looks like it's in Germany so I couldn't call them outside of emailing I guess. Lastly, I didn't come across on any clear how-to's on using the product from a basic search...
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Originally Posted By: Miller88
If you're not adding a quart in between oil changes, and you aren't dripping on the pavement ... I would think you're okay.
Sounds like the dealer is trying to get money out of you.
Amen!
I'm sorry but, this subject is going way too far with all of the recomendations before the whole story is understood!
Applesandoranges takes his Maxima to the "stealership" and all of a sudden, the oil change guys find leaks. BIG DEAL!
The last several posters have stated the best advise in this thread. DON'T DO ANYTHING! Don't put in any additives!
Keep using the same oil or try an oil that is a better value than Mobil 1. If Apps&Orang is going to stay with M1 syn, you may want to consider not wasting the oil by changing it so soon @ 4K-5K miles. 6K-7.5K miles would be more like it. Any conventional can go 5K miles. M1 can go longer!
But at this point, just don't do anything yet! And if you feel satisfied doing 4K-5K OCI on M1, then do so!
If you're not adding a quart in between oil changes, and you aren't dripping on the pavement ... I would think you're okay.
Sounds like the dealer is trying to get money out of you.
Amen!
I'm sorry but, this subject is going way too far with all of the recomendations before the whole story is understood!
Applesandoranges takes his Maxima to the "stealership" and all of a sudden, the oil change guys find leaks. BIG DEAL!
The last several posters have stated the best advise in this thread. DON'T DO ANYTHING! Don't put in any additives!
Keep using the same oil or try an oil that is a better value than Mobil 1. If Apps&Orang is going to stay with M1 syn, you may want to consider not wasting the oil by changing it so soon @ 4K-5K miles. 6K-7.5K miles would be more like it. Any conventional can go 5K miles. M1 can go longer!
But at this point, just don't do anything yet! And if you feel satisfied doing 4K-5K OCI on M1, then do so!
Originally Posted By: applesandoranges
I think Art Vandalay said to drive it for a while and if things happen otherwise, proceed to option 2 (from a few posts above) which was the liqui-moly oil saver.
No. I didn't say that. I said, "After you know how much oil you're using per 5000 miles," you can proceed to step 2.
With step 2 being whatever you choose to do for your next oil change.
The main point being do absolutely nothing until you know how much oil your leaking. If any.
I think Art Vandalay said to drive it for a while and if things happen otherwise, proceed to option 2 (from a few posts above) which was the liqui-moly oil saver.
No. I didn't say that. I said, "After you know how much oil you're using per 5000 miles," you can proceed to step 2.
With step 2 being whatever you choose to do for your next oil change.
The main point being do absolutely nothing until you know how much oil your leaking. If any.
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