1995 Honda Civic: The car doesn't start

[CivicFan]

The 1995 Civic is my winter car: is a 4 cylinder engine, automatic transmission with 150k miles on it.

Unfortunately, it doesn't start now. A month or so ago it had an issue with starting so I cranked it for what seemed a long period of time and it started. After starting, it ran well.

After that, I haven't been able to start it as it cranks and cranks but doesn't fire.
- I have ruled out the main relay as it works fine and I re-soldered the connections. The fuel pump hums when turning the key.
- I suspected that there might be a nest in the air intake but it is clean (new filter).
- The spark plugs and the distributor, rotor and wires have about 10k on them.
- When the ignition is on the 'ON' position, there is a buzzing sound from the throttle body. I don't know if this is normal.

Any ideas?

 

[Bill in Utah]

Check engine light on?

Take the air cleaner out, Get a plug out and see if you have spark or at least hook up a light.

Look at a plug, wet?

Get with the basics and go from there.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

These were known to have hot engine re-start problems but sounds like that's opposite problem you're having.......
Old gas/no gas?
Try spraying starting fluid into the throttle body. If it kicks and runs for a second it's fuel related. If not, electrical most likely of some sort.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Check engine light on?

Take the air cleaner out, Get a plug out and see if you have spark or at least hook up a light.

Look at a plug, wet?

Get with the basics and go from there.

+1

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Check engine light on?



What's that going to prove on a non-running car? All cars I've ever had have the CEL with key on, engine off. Or is that your point, that the computer is getting power?

Agree on the spark test. These cars have bad distributors.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Check engine light on?



What's that going to prove on a non-running car? All cars I've ever had have the CEL with key on, engine off. Or is that your point, that the computer is getting power?

Agree on the spark test. These cars have bad distributors.


Both. Sometimes (on some brands) after xx secs the lights go out but it does indicate IF the computer is getting power. Sorta a double check!

Bill

 

[PandaBear]

Make sure when you do a spark test, touch the terminal to the engine so that it is grounded, otherwise you probably won't see a spark.

Another test in the Honda manual is to open up the oil filler cap and see if the cam rotate when you try to start the car. If it doesn't rotate, your timing belt is bad.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Make sure when you do a spark test, touch the terminal to the engine so that it is grounded, otherwise you probably won't see a spark. ...


Yeah he will feel it instead!

 

[CivicFan]

Yesterday I did the recommended tests. There was no spark and the plugs were dry. There was no fuel smell from the spark plug hole and the throttle body was humming and buzzing when the ignition switch was on. There was pressure in the fuel tank when I removed the cap.

I will check the timing belt test through the oil fill hole today but all the signs point to a bad main relay even though it clicks when turning the car on.

 

[deepsquat]

take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor is spinning as you crank the engine...if not you may have a broken distrubutor ..


and I don't know what the coil dist situatrion looks like ..but if you can pull the coil wire ..try grounding that wire as it is being cranked ...if no spark strong chance it is coil..if spark ..it is being lost at the dist .

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: deepsquat
take off the distributor cap and see if the rotor is spinning as you crank the engine...if not you may have a broken distrubutor ..


and I don't know what the coil dist situatrion looks like ..but if you can pull the coil wire ..try grounding that wire as it is being cranked ...if no spark strong chance it is coil..if spark ..it is being lost at the dist .


The "official" way of testing the coil according the manufacturing manual is to test the resistance at about 20C (room temp?), it should be about 20 Ohm or so (I have the same coil).