1995 Ford Mustang 5.0 GT

@Finn

I always ran John Deere tractor fluid in my T5s. Used to get it in 5 gallon pails from Tractor Supply....it was way back. Smoothest shifting t5 ever.

One thing I can recommend for that T5 is what nobody will argue with is a aftermarket shifter. I preferred a Hurst, but any will do better than stock.
Man, the opinions on what to run in the T5 were all over the map, lol. Some liked the Royal Purple Synchromesh fluid too, I found M1 ATF worked well. I had a MAC shifter for a while, then bought a Steeda Tri-Ax, which, IMHO, was a nicer shifter than the Pro-50.
 
So, while awaiting for Bilstein to arrive there is now some time to think about four wheel alignment. Springs will remain stock ie. there will be no lowering.

Have I understood correctly that there is practically no adjustment for camber and caster if the car is bone stock? But that after grinding the rivets on shock upper "bracket" then there is some adjustment available by moving the bracket in the long holes?

Moog and others offer eccentric bolts for shock lower end and they should make camber adjustment easy.

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Which way to go, move upper brackets or install cam bolts?
 
I'd go with the B6's. The Koni's are overkill for a cruiser, the Excel-G's are barely adequate as a stock replacement, and SACHS are nothing to write home about.

RA has the entire B6 line available, including the anti-wrap shock for the rear end which I highly suggest replacing at the same time.
Along with adding some of the anti-squat brackets to the upper arms if you can still find somebody making them. It alters the angle of the upper arms to move the instant center farther forward, and helps improve traction on launch and also reduces nose dive under hard braking.

Plus they only take a few minutes to install if you’re removing the upper arms for any reason!
 
Man, the opinions on what to run in the T5 were all over the map, lol. Some liked the Royal Purple Synchromesh fluid too, I found M1 ATF worked well. I had a MAC shifter for a while, then bought a Steeda Tri-Ax, which, IMHO, was a nicer shifter than the Pro-50.

I was a Pro-5.0 fan in my 90 GT. Just wanted to reply to follow this thread. Can’t believe my Mustang would be 33 years old now. I wonder if it is still alive.

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Ordered these on Friday last week at about 12.00 from Rockauto.

They arrived on my doorstep today at about 13.30. And that includes also customs clearance and other official activities. Very quick both Rockauto and Fedex. (y)

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You're going to love them. I had HDs with H&R springs, then to Maximum Motorsports coilovers, then upgraded to revalved Bilstein Sports from MM
 
I have been thinking about changing the springs while doing the shocks. Don't know if the 30 year old original spings are past their prime but by changing them now the suspension would be OK. I have no wish to start changing control arms etc. for "better" ones so apart from changing some bushings if needed this is it.

Also, I do not wish to lower the car much, perhaps a bit for "aesthetic reasons". But the usage is cruising in the countryside and perhaps some highway touring.

Judging by the information I googled, the original springs have following specs: 450 lb/in front & 210 lb/in rear

I have been looking at the Ford Performance Parts springs M-5300-B. They appear to be progressive and a tad harder but not that much.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5300-B

M5300F.jpg


M-5300-B specs are: 425/530 lb/in front & 200/300 lb/in rear, drop front 0.875", rear 0.5"

As far as I can tell they should go well with the Bilsten B6 struts and shocks. They seem to have received good reviews and comments on Summit site. And they are in stock here.

Any experiences of these Ford springs?
 
I have been thinking about changing the springs while doing the shocks. Don't know if the 30 year old original spings are past their prime but by changing them now the suspension would be OK. I have no wish to start changing control arms etc. for "better" ones so apart from changing some bushings if needed this is it.

Also, I do not wish to lower the car much, perhaps a bit for "aesthetic reasons". But the usage is cruising in the countryside and perhaps some highway touring.

Judging by the information I googled, the original springs have following specs: 450 lb/in front & 210 lb/in rear

I have been looking at the Ford Performance Parts springs M-5300-B. They appear to be progressive and a tad harder but not that much.

https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-5300-B

M5300F.jpg


M-5300-B specs are: 425/530 lb/in front & 200/300 lb/in rear, drop front 0.875", rear 0.5"

As far as I can tell they should go well with the Bilsten B6 struts and shocks. They seem to have received good reviews and comments on Summit site. And they are in stock here.

Any experiences of these Ford springs?
Yes. Change them. Good choice for springs.
 
I had a TFS Stage 1, had bought a Jay Allen (Camshaft Innovations) custom when I wrote the car off. I had a set of pro-ported GT40 irons, running Crane 1.7's. No nitrous on mine, but had several friends that did. I bought an FMS eXtender to bump the rev limit above the stock 6,250RPM limit, what were you using? I know the SCT chips/tunes were popular. Was running a TFS-R with a 75mm Holley TB. Base was 14 degrees. I had Flowtech equal length headers with a MAC off-road H-pipe.

8K sounds like valve float, you'd need some serious valve springs unless you converted to solid roller. I was setup to run to about 7K, which was high, and Jay had told me to run K-Motion K800's, which were very heavy.
I was using a A9L with a TWeeCer RT to tune it. Old school stuff. Used to be heavy into the "after hours" activities in the CT area. Car eventually went Twin Turbo with a Jaguar IRS rear and custom cradle. Benefits of having a Pratt and Whitney engineer with a passion for road racing living next door. Car hooked like stupid on the street and handled amazing.

I put the car away 13 years ago after too close of a call doing hood rat ish. Street scene got very disorganized and too dangerous. Haven't touched it since then.

Funny enough, I'm going to CT mid-late August to trailer it up to NH and resurrect it with a Coyote swap and probably a too big of a turbo.

Did everything myself on her. From learning to weld(I still suck at it) to learning to tune.

I think this is the only video I took. First fire with the twin setup.

 
I was using a A9L with a TWeeCer RT to tune it. Old school stuff. Used to be heavy into the "after hours" activities in the CT area. Car eventually went Twin Turbo with a Jaguar IRS rear and custom cradle. Benefits of having a Pratt and Whitney engineer with a passion for road racing living next door. Car hooked like stupid on the street and handled amazing.

I put the car away 13 years ago after too close of a call doing hood rat ish. Street scene got very disorganized and too dangerous. Haven't touched it since then.

Funny enough, I'm going to CT mid-late August to trailer it up to NH and resurrect it with a Coyote swap and probably a too big of a turbo.

Did everything myself on her. From learning to weld(I still suck at it) to learning to tune.

I think this is the only video I took. First fire with the twin setup.


I remember the TwEECer well! I read the GUFB, because I was thinking of getting one myself before the project got stale and languished in my garage for years until I parted it out. I was also running an A9L, as I converted the car to MAF.

Home brew TT! One way of getting past that 550RWHP limit the S-trim boys seemed to run up against. Think the stock block was safe to around 650 with a turbo? Obviously you weren't winding it as high with that setup. Love that old Cobra intake too.
 
I remember the TwEECer well! I read the GUFB, because I was thinking of getting one myself before the project got stale and languished in my garage for years until I parted it out. I was also running an A9L, as I converted the car to MAF.

Home brew TT! One way of getting past that 550RWHP limit the S-trim boys seemed to run up against. Think the stock block was safe to around 650 with a turbo? Obviously you weren't winding it as high with that setup. Love that old Cobra intake too.
Lol....that old school cobra intake was so cut apart and ported so much and so thin, it came apart under 14psi of boost so bad, it would make a plastic intake jealous.

Idk the hp with stock blocks. I was running them to 8k rpm and boost of "send it" I had 3 or 4 in my garage as spares. I was never a dyno guy until I got a r block . 306 long rod. She did get up to 886hp with that, but it ran like ish under street driving. That block got almost sawed in half by a broken con rod. Might of had something to do with high rpm and all the boost....young kid doing dumb stuff I guess.

And let's be honest, engine electronics of 15-20 years ago don't hold a candle to electronics of today.

It's sad the stuff we had to do in the past for 500hp or more.

Today, you can pull a 2nd Gen yote, stick cams/spring/opg/headers on it and you're there. Get a 6.0 ls, stick a cam and springs in it, you're there, and even the stock ecus have more than enough control capability to make it live forever.
 
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