OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I typically used M1 ATF, worked well.
1995 Ford Mustang 5.0 GT
- Thread starter Finn
- Start date
I'm continuing this "saga" here if you don't mind?
Struts and shocks
Springs seen to be OK but the struts and shocks are definitely shot. Front has some Monroes and rears are most likely original.
I prefer to keep the original height so stock springs will do nicely. The use of the car is more cruising and touring than anything else. So:
There are some good available (Rockauto, Summit) alternatives, perhaps they are not exacly comparable with each other but here is the list nevertheless:
SACHS 030641 front
SACHS 030731 rear
KYB Excel-G 235060 front
KYB Excel-G 344433 rear
Bilstein B6 35-041382 front
Bilstein B6 24-064187 rear
Koni STR.T 8750-1027 front
Koni STR.T 8050-1050 rear
Any suggestions regarding these or are the Bilsteins the way to go?
Struts and shocks
Springs seen to be OK but the struts and shocks are definitely shot. Front has some Monroes and rears are most likely original.
I prefer to keep the original height so stock springs will do nicely. The use of the car is more cruising and touring than anything else. So:
There are some good available (Rockauto, Summit) alternatives, perhaps they are not exacly comparable with each other but here is the list nevertheless:
SACHS 030641 front
SACHS 030731 rear
KYB Excel-G 235060 front
KYB Excel-G 344433 rear
Bilstein B6 35-041382 front
Bilstein B6 24-064187 rear
Koni STR.T 8750-1027 front
Koni STR.T 8050-1050 rear
Any suggestions regarding these or are the Bilsteins the way to go?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The Bilsteins are the way I'd go, yep.
I'd go with the B6's. The Koni's are overkill for a cruiser, the Excel-G's are barely adequate as a stock replacement, and SACHS are nothing to write home about.
RA has the entire B6 line available, including the anti-wrap shock for the rear end which I highly suggest replacing at the same time.
RA has the entire B6 line available, including the anti-wrap shock for the rear end which I highly suggest replacing at the same time.
Well,
transmission and differential fluids too were changed with beforementioned Mobil products.
Brakes were a bit funky and uneven so we took them all open and noticed practically new discs and Raybestos pads. One of the rear caliper slide pins was stuck but we managed to get it loose with heat and now brakes feel even and fairly OK. Could have more bite but they work. Changed the brake fluid too while at it.
I have a full ignition kit and 195F thermostat so tomorrow we are diving in the engine bay with cap, rotor, plugs, wires etc. Hopefully we can check and adjust the timing although I suspect that damper has slipped.
transmission and differential fluids too were changed with beforementioned Mobil products.
Brakes were a bit funky and uneven so we took them all open and noticed practically new discs and Raybestos pads. One of the rear caliper slide pins was stuck but we managed to get it loose with heat and now brakes feel even and fairly OK. Could have more bite but they work. Changed the brake fluid too while at it.
I have a full ignition kit and 195F thermostat so tomorrow we are diving in the engine bay with cap, rotor, plugs, wires etc. Hopefully we can check and adjust the timing although I suspect that damper has slipped.
Well,
we did some work on the Mustang today and changed:
- damper Ford M-6316-M50
- Autolite plugs and Standard plug wires
- Standard cap and rotor
- Wix air filter
- Wix fuel filter
It seems that #4 plug wire has been loose for a long time and car has been acting as a V-7. I knew something was off...
Timing was spot on at 10°. That is fine with me, don't want to test 12 or others.
The engine pulls now so nicely that I'm quite
.
Need to reset the ECU just in case and put some kilometers on it.
we did some work on the Mustang today and changed:
- damper Ford M-6316-M50
- Autolite plugs and Standard plug wires
- Standard cap and rotor
- Wix air filter
- Wix fuel filter
It seems that #4 plug wire has been loose for a long time and car has been acting as a V-7. I knew something was off...
Timing was spot on at 10°. That is fine with me, don't want to test 12 or others.
The engine pulls now so nicely that I'm quite
.Need to reset the ECU just in case and put some kilometers on it.
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2023
- Messages
- 141
Nothing wrong with that. Why not do it and use Euro spec?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
M1 0W-40 is my go-to for Ford Windsor engines, so yes, it would be perfectly suited for your 302 Windsor.
Nice to see a 95 Mustang in Europe in excellent shape (from what I can see).. just had to comment it's a nice clean example!M1 it is then.
I will add SACHS a couple of years ago were excellent, but lately they've consolidated their line up and outsourced some of their shocks to other manufacturers! No thanks..
Yep I think the Bilstein's would be my answer too.. Usually I've seen they're not that much more or same price as the competition!
happy to hear it was just a spark plug wire!Well,
we did some work on the Mustang today and changed:
- damper Ford M-6316-M50
- Autolite plugs and Standard plug wires
- Standard cap and rotor
- Wix air filter
- Wix fuel filter
It seems that #4 plug wire has been loose for a long time and car has been acting as a V-7. I knew something was off...
Timing was spot on at 10°. That is fine with me, don't want to test 12 or others.
The engine pulls now so nicely that I'm quite
Need to reset the ECU just in case and put some kilometers on it.
That's why back in the day people loved the Mustang.. not much can kill it! And I always liked the Windsor over the Cleveland.. Keeping it maintained is all that's needed. And I like Standard's products, have some of them on my Civic.. stay away from the T-line (Value lineup) and you'll be good.
JHZR2
Staff member
Looks nice! Always wanted one…
Now you bringing back memories...headers, short belt, gears, bumped timing I was running 12.8-12.9 all day in a full weight 91Gt.Low 13 second car without trying and 30 years old.
It's the way they go about their business that makes them special.
Those in the know, know. Everyone else thinks they're on the verge of stalling lol.
Love me the E-cam lope
About the letter cams......you finna start a old school battle here. I was a fan of the F cam with staggered rockers, 1.6 intake, 1.7 exhaust on a set of edelbrock 6037 heads. I used to pull it to 8k rpm all day long on a 175 shot. No need to mention leaving the house with a 5.0 and coming back with two 2.5s, it was all fun.
@Finn
I always ran John Deere tractor fluid in my T5s. Used to get it in 5 gallon pails from Tractor Supply....it was way back. Smoothest shifting t5 ever.
One thing I can recommend for that T5 is what nobody will argue with is a aftermarket shifter. I preferred a Hurst, but any will do better than stock.
I always ran John Deere tractor fluid in my T5s. Used to get it in 5 gallon pails from Tractor Supply....it was way back. Smoothest shifting t5 ever.
One thing I can recommend for that T5 is what nobody will argue with is a aftermarket shifter. I preferred a Hurst, but any will do better than stock.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I had a TFS Stage 1, had bought a Jay Allen (Camshaft Innovations) custom when I wrote the car off. I had a set of pro-ported GT40 irons, running Crane 1.7's. No nitrous on mine, but had several friends that did. I bought an FMS eXtender to bump the rev limit above the stock 6,250RPM limit, what were you using? I know the SCT chips/tunes were popular. Was running a TFS-R with a 75mm Holley TB. Base was 14 degrees. I had Flowtech equal length headers with a MAC off-road H-pipe.
8K sounds like valve float, you'd need some serious valve springs unless you converted to solid roller. I was setup to run to about 7K, which was high, and Jay had told me to run K-Motion K800's, which were very heavy.
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