1993 Chevrolet Blazer running thread

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Originally Posted By: eljefino
I'd pay a shop $75 for an hour to get the timing right and get you to pass emissions, before trading this thing on a sunfire that you'll have to pay at least $75 in ownership transfer costs.


That is the plan. Particularly since I think Mr. Sunfire caught a beam of light out of my inbox? But yes, the plan is to let a reputable shop do the timing.

The car sounds better and runs "ok" with 'whatever I did' however I can feel it it is low on trans fluid, wherever that transmission fluid leak is. Will put in actual fluid before stop-leak.

The Blazer is showing signs of promise, running smoother, still with a misfire but it is probably: 1. Loose wires 2. Old bad cap/rotor 3. Maybe a bum coil or wires and ? and so many hands have touched it that maybe 6 new plugs, wires, dist. cap/rotor, COIL, and timing are in order.. maybe the miss will go away.. Because I see the logic: Clean up timing, I already see improvement. THEN evaluate codes/02 sensor, THEN go to emissions. Yes?

It also seems to shut off smoother with the new timing and I still am putting many fuel cleaners through tank.. something tells me much cleaning is/was needed there.
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: eljefino
I'd pay a shop $75 for an hour to get the timing right and get you to pass emissions, before trading this thing on a sunfire that you'll have to pay at least $75 in ownership transfer costs.


That is the plan. Particularly since I think Mr. Sunfire caught a beam of light out of my inbox? But yes, the plan is to let a reputable shop do the timing.

The car sounds better and runs "ok" with 'whatever I did' however I can feel it it is low on trans fluid, wherever that transmission fluid leak is. Will put in actual fluid before stop-leak.

The Blazer is showing signs of promise, running smoother, still with a misfire but it is probably: 1. Loose wires 2. Old bad cap/rotor 3. Maybe a bum coil or wires and ? and so many hands have touched it that maybe 6 new plugs, wires, dist. cap/rotor, COIL, and timing are in order.. maybe the miss will go away.. Because I see the logic: Clean up timing, I already see improvement. THEN evaluate codes/02 sensor, THEN go to emissions. Yes?

It also seems to shut off smoother with the new timing and I still am putting many fuel cleaners through tank.. something tells me much cleaning is/was needed there.


Yes?
 
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No, stop with the fuel and oil "cleaners' Do NOT add any trans stop leak. Get the timing done properly (BTW, you did not "time" the engine, you merely adjusted the ignition timing somewhat by moving the distributor....you need to time it with a light).

Once the engine is properly timed, troubleshoot further to evaluate whether it truly needs an 02 sensor and/or wires, etc. You've already replaced the plugs per an earlier post.

Stop with the chemicals already.....give it a chance to run on gasoline for a change!
 
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The only plan you should have is getting the timing done.

Forget about pouring fluids into various orifices until that is done.

There is a lot of good advice from a lot of smart people. And none of them, unless I missed it, are saying to go the chemical route.
 
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
No, stop with the fuel and oil "cleaners' Do NOT add any trans stop leak. Get the timing done properly (BTW, you did not "time" the engine, you merely adjusted the ignition timing somewhat by moving the distributor....you need to time it with a light).

Once the engine is properly timed, troubleshoot further to evaluate whether it truly needs an 02 sensor and/or wires, etc. You've already replaced the plugs per an earlier post.

Stop with the chemicals already.....give it a chance to run on gasoline for a change!


Originally Posted By: Trajan
The only plan you should have is getting the timing done.

Forget about pouring fluids into various orifices until that is done.

There is a lot of good advice from a lot of smart people. And none of them, unless I missed it, are saying to go the chemical route.



Not doing anything else until it can get to reputable shop for total timing, as I believe it to be off. Engine shows promise with proper timing. Various weirdnesses happening until timed. I realized it is above my skill set, due to how I legitimately cant see any marks.

I topped off the ATF half a quart. It improved it. Since I still have to use it to get to work.

And I think Sunfire guy is gone.
 
I think setting the timing is well within your skill set and a combination of your smart phone and Haynes manual should allow you to get it done. Find the timing marks (with the engine off), mark/clean them so they'll be visible, disconnect the EST wire and time the darn thing.....timing is merely setting the distributor to allow the plug to spark at the correct "time" before each piston reaches top dead center. your smart phone and/or Haynes manual will explain this and will show what the marks will look like.

If it's still beyond your means, then definitely pay someone to time it for you....it will take all of maybe ten minutes. Until your engine is timed you are simply spitting into the wind. Once the engine is properly timed, then further engine diagnostics can take place....you may find you don't need to do anything else. I can GUARANTEE you will NOT fix your engine ills with something that comes out of a bottle.

A lot of people in here are rooting for you but I for one am getting bored reading about the chemical treatments...for what you've probably spent on miracle cures/garbage, you could have had your engine timed a dozen times.
 
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New spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor costs $46.46 from Advance Auto Parts when you use the P20 code to get 20% off.

If you add in a new ignition coil, that bumps the price up to $72.05.

The coil requires you to drill out the rivets on the mounting bracket for the original coil, and the new coil comes with bolts to hold the new coil to the original coil bracket.

If you add another $7.95 worth of stuff, that would make a solid $80.
If you then have someone "refer" you to advance auto parts, you will receive a $30 off coupon from Advance Auto Parts, which would then drop the cost of this to $50. Or just leave off the P20 discount code, and you already have $90.06 in the cart, so the $30 off drops you to $60.06.

If you were just about anyone else, I would just buy a gift card to Advance Auto Parts, and send it to you, but I believe that gift card would wind up on Craigslist faster than I can search for it.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
New spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor costs $46.46 from Advance Auto Parts when you use the P20 code to get 20% off.

If you add in a new ignition coil, that bumps the price up to $72.05.

The coil requires you to drill out the rivets on the mounting bracket for the original coil, and the new coil comes with bolts to hold the new coil to the original coil bracket.

If you add another $7.95 worth of stuff, that would make a solid $80.
If you then have someone "refer" you to advance auto parts, you will receive a $30 off coupon from Advance Auto Parts, which would then drop the cost of this to $50. Or just leave off the P20 discount code, and you already have $90.06 in the cart, so the $30 off drops you to $60.06.

If you were just about anyone else, I would just buy a gift card to Advance Auto Parts, and send it to you, but I believe that gift card would wind up on Craigslist faster than I can search for it.

BC.


I can appreciate that, though I have use Advance's online ordering system before and I dont see why I would go about putting it up on Craigslist .. I guess I have to think about why one would think that!

As to Mr. Sunfire, he e-mailed me while I was sleeping and says he "very much wants to trade." So I am now motivated to work on S10 (still) and do what I can, since the curiosity is killing me.. That, or just trade it
lol.gif
but yes I actually want to know what it will do with the tune-up BC suggested. (Of the components and online code)

I sure hope the Sunfire has a decent body. Still split. One side says "You know the Sunfire is for you" (hopefully no dents?) the other says "You have thousands in this pig." ...
 
Originally Posted By: Fleetmon
I think setting the timing is well within your skill set and a combination of your smart phone and Haynes manual should allow you to get it done. Find the timing marks (with the engine off), mark/clean them so they'll be visible, disconnect the EST wire and time the darn thing.....timing is merely setting the distributor to allow the plug to spark at the correct "time" before each piston reaches top dead center. your smart phone and/or Haynes manual will explain this and will show what the marks will look like.

If it's still beyond your means, then definitely pay someone to time it for you....it will take all of maybe ten minutes. Until your engine is timed you are simply spitting into the wind. Once the engine is properly timed, then further engine diagnostics can take place....you may find you don't need to do anything else. I can GUARANTEE you will NOT fix your engine ills with something that comes out of a bottle.

A lot of people in here are rooting for you but I for one am getting bored reading about the chemical treatments...for what you've probably spent on miracle cures/garbage, you could have had your engine timed a dozen times.


On my day off, I will get in there and look long and hard (again) for those marks. The engine is still out of time, yes. I'll reference OVERKILL's post again. Will clean things off as best I can, and take pics, as you say, as to what I see.. Or cant see..

As to the trading, its a "vehicle with character" (Blazer) vs the Sunfire.

Maybe I should think of buying the Sunfire outright.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Possible the "pointer' got broken off during the engine swap?

GHT, I would seriously consider the Sunfire swap...as long as you can see/drive the vehicle before committing.


This is a Ford, but the idea is the same:

The pointer (GM one looks different):

Timing001.jpg


Numbers on the balancer (with where you want the timing to be marked):
Timing005.jpg


This is on the right-side of the engine (on a Ford), yours is on the left (right if you are looking at the engine though, going by the pictures):

2008-04-20_200450_blazer_timing_1.gif



I know my engine's cylinder numbers and fieing order..

1DB8FCB.gif


And where the timing "wire" is. http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/joecamel90/2010-06-06_002432_connect.pdf

Have to really look for this "timing tab." It is being elusive!

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t918765-tdc_and_timing_mark_on_95_4_3l_cpi_vortec__.html
 
If you do look at that sunfire (an idea trending towards badness) look at the unibody above the rear axle. Get it in the air somehow for a good look. They rot there and you can't see it when it's on the ground.

NJ doesn't do safety inspections so it may be a moot point but with your free roaming lifestyle you might wind up in PA or MA and need a frame holding your car together to stay legal.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If you do look at that sunfire (an idea trending towards badness) look at the unibody above the rear axle. Get it in the air somehow for a good look. They rot there and you can't see it when it's on the ground.

NJ doesn't do safety inspections so it may be a moot point but with your free roaming lifestyle you might wind up in PA or MA and need a frame holding your car together to stay legal.


Agreed. I asked for pics of his car.

And the efforts to get this one timed.. I just logged in to look at threeputtpar's link.

Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Here you go, buddy. This is about as close as we will get to actually doing the timing for you.

http://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-gen-s-s...uestions-65221/

You'll have to create an account to see the pic, but it clearly shows where the marks are on a 1994 VIN W 4.3l.

If the join date of this person wasn't 2008, I'd start calling you bert renolds.


My username is 93S10TahoeLT on there.
 
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Here you go, buddy. This is about as close as we will get to actually doing the timing for you.

http://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-gen-s-s...uestions-65221/

You'll have to create an account to see the pic, but it clearly shows where the marks are on a 1994 VIN W 4.3l.

If the join date of this person wasn't 2008, I'd start calling you bert renolds.


CPI_metal_cover_timing_zpsc1e987a9.jpg


Quote:
There should be a single groove on the balancer OD and a corresponding tang on the timing cover that has a 'V' notch in the end of it. Timing is set to 0 (zero) degrees after disconnecting the tan (or tan w/ black tracer) wire that is just to the passenger side of the transmission tunnel inside the truck under the upper edge of the carpet.

If you have a metal timing cover, the marks should look like the attached. Deepest groove is 0 degrees.
 
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now find the corresponding groove on the damper....

Better get that belt changed soon too but AFTER you get it timed.
 
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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: threeputtpar
Here you go, buddy. This is about as close as we will get to actually doing the timing for you.

http://blazerforum.com/forum/1st-gen-s-s...uestions-65221/

You'll have to create an account to see the pic, but it clearly shows where the marks are on a 1994 VIN W 4.3l.

If the join date of this person wasn't 2008, I'd start calling you bert renolds.


CPI_metal_cover_timing_zpsc1e987a9.jpg


Quote:
There should be a single groove on the balancer OD and a corresponding tang on the timing cover that has a 'V' notch in the end of it. Timing is set to 0 (zero) degrees after disconnecting the tan (or tan w/ black tracer) wire that is just to the passenger side of the transmission tunnel inside the truck under the upper edge of the carpet.

If you have a metal timing cover, the marks should look like the attached. Deepest groove is 0 degrees.


I have found the marks in the picture. On the driver's side. Sure enough, I will need to remove the air intake to do this. And at night should be good.

Now, only one more question for ponderance! The timing light I hold in my hand. I aim it AT the deepest notch.. What exactly am I looking for/trying to do? The variable location that I can change where the timing light goes and shines is only thing left giving me pause. (I can aim it there, I am trying to align the light to the deepest groove, ok. But I can change how I hold the light, so.. ?)

Going to get the brighter $25 one now. I know I can do this myself if I have to. Since shops show disinterest...

And starting to get cold feet on the Sunfire. Who knows what is up with it.
 
Originally Posted By: RobertISaar
you're overthinking this.... just hold the light with one hand, steady yourself with the other, check timing. if out of spec, adjust and repeat process.




0 degrees BTDC?

I take it this is easier once I am doing it.

Maybe even in Harbor Freight parking lot?? ...
 
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