1987 BMW 325i

[Vikas]

You are in CA; don't you need inspection and emission before you could register it? See if you can get it inspected and emission tested *before* the purchase otherwise you could have huge headache. If this is the one with Eta engine, does it have smog pump too?

- Vikas

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
You might want to consider your motivations here.

Agreed. If the main reason for buying this would be to learn how to drive stick, you'd be better off finding something else, maybe somewhat more expensive, but not requiring so much work and $$ to get it to run properly. Although, not everything on that long list would require fixing just to start learning the stick.

If on the other hand you're looking for a project car, something to do, tinker with, then this one sounds like an interesting deal.


The main purpose of this car IS to learn stick. If I can get him down to 1k and I can control myself by not putting too much $$ into this car for reconditioning, I think it can be a worthwhile short-term project.

I plan to have this shop do a pre-purchase inspection once I can agree on a price. These guys said they'll charge $127, which is very reasonable for an hr's labor around here:

http://www.yelp.com/biz/edge-motorworks-dublin-3
http://www.edgemotorworks.com/

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
You might want to consider your motivations here.

Agreed. If the main reason for buying this would be to learn how to drive stick, you'd be better off finding something else, maybe somewhat more expensive, but not requiring so much work and $$ to get it to run properly. Although, not everything on that long list would require fixing just to start learning the stick.

If on the other hand you're looking for a project car, something to do, tinker with, then this one sounds like an interesting deal.


The main purpose of this car IS to learn stick. If I can get him down to 1k and I can control myself by not putting too much $$ into this car for reconditioning, I think it can be a worthwhile short-term project.

I plan to have this shop do a pre-purchase inspection once I can agree on a price. These guys said they'll charge $127, which is very reasonable for an hr's labor around here:

http://www.yelp.com/biz/edge-motorworks-dublin-3
http://www.edgemotorworks.com/


Its hard to find a better car to learn stick on than this car, at ANY price. It is also a very good car to own, drive, and use every day. Its a very enjoyable car, and though some hate the ETA, i have the exact opposite experience, i love the ETA. 81MPH in 3rd gear speaks for itself (redline.) Its also as fast as cars of today.

The huge torque of the ETA and the way its set up would make him a pro in about two months. He can then take that knowledge and see how other car's clutches feel compared to the Bimmer.

This is a good car, and there are a great many number of enthusiasts that would line up to purchase it from you, in ANY condition.

These are facts.

 

[Nick R]

I'd say go for it man, it will get you out of the prius hopefully anyway

It's a cool car.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP

Its hard to find a better car to learn stick on than this car, at ANY price. It is also a very good car to own, drive, and use every day. Its a very enjoyable car, and though some hate the ETA, i have the exact opposite experience, i love the ETA. 81MPH in 3rd gear speaks for itself (redline.) Its also as fast as cars of today.

The huge torque of the ETA and the way its set up would make him a pro in about two months. He can then take that knowledge and see how other car's clutches feel compared to the Bimmer.

This is a good car, and there are a great many number of enthusiasts that would line up to purchase it from you, in ANY condition.

These are facts.


He's holding firm at $1200...probably for the reasons you mentioned. I think I'll proceed with the inspection.

 

[The Critic]

OK...inspection is scheduled for next Tues. $127 at the independent.

I got him down to $1080. So far I think right away, I will need to do:

- LOF
- Air Filter
- Fuel Filter
- Spark Plugs
- RF hub/bearing assembly.

Those total $115.

Then, I will also need to RF seat belt buckle, figure out why the RF seat is not sliding, fix the LR door handle and fix the valve cover leak. I hope these items will not total more than $300.

I will probably skip the other items unless they are very bad and/or safety related.

 

[JHZR2]

Im in Monterey this week. Wish I was in the right neck of the woods next week to see the car.

Id swap diff fluid and maybe to an MT fluid changeout just to baseline and makes things right. Coolant is cheap so might as well get a gallon of blue and a gallon of distilled water and take care of that too.

Good luck!

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Hey guys, the trunk said "//M 325." The tachometer shows a redline at around 4500rpm, so I assume it's the 2.7L ETA?


//M 325 likely means boy racer wanting to think he was fast.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
I did a quick lookover tonight in the dark and this is what I found so far. These are in no particular order:


- Needs a full Inspection II/30k service: tune-up, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, brake flush, power steering flush, coolant flush, fuel system service.

No big deal. Run Rotella syn 5w-40, a mahle filter, and use NGK plugs.

- Oil services has been done every 3-4k since my friend's ownership but with 5w30 instead of the correct 15w40; thanks Midas/Wheelworks!

See above.

- Timing belt was done about 30k ago by previous owner who was a tech at an indy BMW shop. Drive belts appeared to be in good shape so I guess the PO did actually do the work.

Good.


- LR door will not open from the inside. Friend handed me a door lock actuator and mumbled something about a security system issue, but I think those are separate issues.

Power door locks stink in E30s. I have one that is about to be on the fritz, and when they are, the door lock knob will be stuck in place.

- 3rd rear brake light is out.

No big deal, just do it before inspection.

- Roar from front end beginning at about 35 mph. Stops when you corner. I guess it needs new front wheel bearings.

Id re-baseline things by doing new rotors/pads, brake lines and fluid when things are open. No big deal. These cars are easy to do.

- Braking performance is a bit inadequate but not unsafe. Pedal is firm but pads feel wooden.

See above.

- Clutch feels good without any slipping; I was not able to duplicate the sticking clutch problem that was previously mentioned. If the issue does pop up, I am guessing that it maybe a slave cyl problem.

Bleed clutch when doing brakes.

- He mentioned something about the car running slightly hot during hot weather in-town, but not on the highway. Perhaps the radiator is slightly clogged? Fan works OK and other cooling system parts seem OK.

Check if the aux fan is working and coolant is up to snuff. Blue coolant in there?


- Oil leaks from valve cover gasket and around spark plug wires (where they go into the cyl). Midas, who did the last service, mentioned there being a large oil leak underneath the vehicle but I was not able to verify that since it was dark. Or it could be from the valve cover.

Youll just have to see. Id re-seal the VC gaskset, but anything else and Id get running Mobil 1 10w-40 High Mileage vs RTS to help condition the seals.

- Front passenger seat will not slide back. Issue with the seat rails? Not sure.

Is the rod bent? The release rod isnt the strongest one Ive seen. Also look to see if the rails are lubed.

- Steering and suspension feel OK but it is possible that it could use a refresh with new control arms, ball joints, bushings, tie rods, trailing arm bushings, struts, etc.

Rubber parts do go bad in time. Mine is all original and tight, but the subframe bushes are going.

- Interior is in good shape for a 25 yr old car, leather looks almost new.

You sure it isnt vinyl?

- Two rear speakers are not working.

Is there a fader wheel? Check there first. Original radio?

- Engine runs well and pulls strong and the gearbox shifts without any grinding. However, the shifter bushings feel a bit worn.

Maybe, Id start with new fluid though.

- All electrical works unless otherwise noted.

 

[cchase]

Are the E30's like the E21's with the fader/balance knob down under the steering column? For some reason I can't remember.

 

[JHZR2]

Mine does not have it. I have a late model E30 though.

 

[The Critic]

So far, I think reconditioning costs will set me back about $800. This is assuming that the steering rack, suspension and cooling systems are OK. Of course, this is probably a dream.

This is what I have in store so far:

Used parts:

Rear Door Lock Actuator, ebay, $20
Front seat rails, ebay, $50

New parts:
RF seat belt buckle, ebay, $90
Behr Fan Clutch, $70
Two valve cover sets (w/plug tube seals), $45
[censored] Front Hub Bearing Assembly, $140
Textar front and rear pads, new wear sensors, Balo coated rotors, $258
Four rocker shaft plug-in heads: $4
Six Bosch WR-9-LS Spark Plugs, $38
Bremi Ignition Rotor, $21
Bremi Distributor Cap, $50
Mahle Fuel Filter, $12
Mahle Air Filter, $7
Drain Plug Washer, 50 cents.
High Mount Stop Light Lamp, $3.
FTE Slave Cylinder, $28

Of course, I came up with this list based on what I've seen so far, pending what the shop finds wrong with it on Tues.

 

[Spazdog]

Throw in another $50 or so for a "guibo" driveshaft coupling.

 

[The Critic]

Got it. And I forgot it's an I6 not V6 so only one valve cover kit needed.

 

[addyguy]

Pics! Pics! Pics!

 

[CBR.worm]

This will be fun

 

[The Critic]

Here was the pre-purchase inspection report:

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...I0&hl=en_US

Discussion is already taking place in another thread, but this will give you guys a better idea.

 

[Nick R]

Lol holy [censored] dude, that thing is going to be more expensive than buying a whole new car when all is said and done. Looks like everything leaks, everything rubber is cracked/torn/worn, all wear parts are worn, the entire exhaust needs replaced...... I scared. Good luck!

 

[cchase]

It looks like a vehicle that was used but not properly maintained. While none of the items on that list look that serious, there are tons of E30's out there, some of which were probably more pre-emptively maintained than this one.