1987 BMW 325i

[The Critic]

One of my friends is selling his 87 325i. It has 140k on it, is manual, and he only wants $1200 for it.

I am thinking about buying it to fix up and to learn how to drive stick well. I even checked with my insurance company, AAA, who said it would only be an extra $127/yr to insure since two cars would make me eligible for the multi-vehicle discount.

So, this would be a relatively cheap project, I think. What can you guys tell me about these cars?

Thanks.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
One of my friends is selling his 87 325i. It has 140k on it, is manual, and he only wants $1200 for it.

I am thinking about buying it to fix up and to learn how to drive stick well. I even checked with my insurance company, AAA, who said it would only be an extra $127/yr to insure since two cars would make me eligible for the multi-vehicle discount.

So, this would be a relatively cheap project, I think. What can you guys tell me about these cars?Thanks.


Everything. (Oh, and ftr: BUY THAT CAR. I know someone purchased one one year older for $1000. BUY IT)

from memory, i helped my friend with this too: the BMW "E30" was rouced from 1984-1991 (in the US.) The models up through 1987, as yours is, had the narrow" tail lights (2 squares 1988 and later, they have three and dont look as good. You have the 2.7L ETA engine. (Thats right, you have a 325 with a 2.7L Inline 6. This engine does well on 20W-50, or 5W-50.It just does.) You have a standard sunroof, either electronic or crank; either a pleather interior or an upholstered one; auto or stick. Your front fascia MAY have the foglights tucket at the corners of a valence, or may ave them just "Stuck on the front." Your battery is in the trunk. Your windows both go down with your right hand. And it goes like [censored].

http://www.unofficialbmw.com

You can "chip" your car, if you are daring.

You can let off the clutch slow, not give it gas, and it has so much torque it will still go forward!

And, since you have th 2.7L I6, your redline is 4800RPM - yup, like a diesel, but its gas.

Put some Bridgestone Potenza RE950 or the replacement of those (960AS) in 205/60R15 and enjoy.

Now, what else would you like to know about your particular E30?

 

[L_Sludger]

Can I buy it instead?

 

[drtyler]

A 1987 325i has a 2.5 liter engine. If it is a 325 (or 325e), then it has the 2.7 liter. You can check the label inside the engine compartment for verification of engine size. The 2.5 liter has more horsepower and revs higher, but the 2.7 has more low-end power and they tend to get a little better gas mileage. The 2.5 liter was introduced for the 1987 model year cars.

These are great cars. I've had an '88 325i for over 7 years, and I drive it almost every day. It has about 270k miles on it, with no signs of slowing down.

However, if the car is a bad one or worn-out, then it can take some resources to get it right. A previous poster mentioned the unofficialbmw.com website, and it is a good one to check out.

DT

 

[Quattro Pete]

If I had space in the garage, I'd buy it myself! Sounds like a great car to learn, drive, and tinker with.

 

[The_Jeff]

Get it. Life has said to you, you need a challenge. Then this appears.

 

[cchase]

They're quite safe. I was a passenger in one that ended up on its side in someones front yard - we pushed it back down and drove it home that night...

 

[JHZR2]

I bought my 91 318i in 2002 to teach myself to drive stick. It had a flood title and 72k, ABS didnt work, diff was noisy, but everything was functional.

Nearly 10 yrs later I still drive it and wouldnt think twice about taking it 150 miles away on travel for work tomorrow (as I routinely do) or drive it cross country (which I dont just because I have larger, more comfortable cars to use for that, but nothing technically or mechanically would stop me on an E30). Despite having lots of cars and some nice ones that do things better, it really is a blast to drive. I learned a lot on the car, rebuilt the ABS, chipped it myself, I didnt do the dirtywork, but replaced the diff (you really want an LSD if you are going to see any snow ever).

The 325 will be thirstier and more expensive to maintain by virtue of two more spark plugs, etc., but only marginally so.

I say buy it. The price to me is very low, so be on the lookout for rust and other problems. Still, as a car to learn on, I think it would be great. What's the worst that could happen, you sell it for $1000 later on.

FTR, BMWs are geared smartly and well, compared to, say, integras (first hand experience), and make it very easy to learn how to drive stick. I learned on my car, as did my brother, and at 137k, it still has the original clutch.

 

[rationull]

I agree, sounds like a fun project. Assuming it's in decent enough shape to be drivable without exorbitant costs, at least. If you really don't like it, you'll be able to sell it without much loss, or maybe even at a profit!

Getting practice driving stick on an older car will be more fun anyway, IMO.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: drtyler
A 1987 325i has a 2.5 liter engine. If it is a 325 (or 325e), then it has the 2.7 liter. You can check the label inside the engine compartment for verification of engine size. The 2.5 liter has more horsepower and revs higher, but the 2.7 has more low-end power and they tend to get a little better gas mileage. The 2.5 liter was introduced for the 1987 model year cars.

These are great cars. I've had an '88 325i for over 7 years, and I drive it almost every day. It has about 270k miles on it, with no signs of slowing down.

However, if the car is a bad one or worn-out, then it can take some resources to get it right. A previous poster mentioned the unofficialbmw.com website, and it is a good one to check out.

DT



All you need to do is look at the tach. If its a 6800RPM redline, its the 2.5. If its 4800 like a diesel, its the 2.7 "eta." The engine code for the ETA was E30M27 IIRC.

They you get into to the 'Super ETAs" for the 88 my.

I agree, id buy that in a heartbeat. No questions asked, just "sold."

Personally id take the 2.7. Its still powerful car and i like its torque, though im sure the 2.5 isnt bad. Both are inline 6s. Some engines are 4-cyl and large as 2.5..

 

[cchase]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Originally Posted By: drtyler
A 1987 325i has a 2.5 liter engine. If it is a 325 (or 325e), then it has the 2.7 liter. You can check the label inside the engine compartment for verification of engine size. The 2.5 liter has more horsepower and revs higher, but the 2.7 has more low-end power and they tend to get a little better gas mileage. The 2.5 liter was introduced for the 1987 model year cars.

These are great cars. I've had an '88 325i for over 7 years, and I drive it almost every day. It has about 270k miles on it, with no signs of slowing down.

However, if the car is a bad one or worn-out, then it can take some resources to get it right. A previous poster mentioned the unofficialbmw.com website, and it is a good one to check out.

DT



All you need to do is look at the tach. If its a 6800RPM redline, its the 2.5. If its 4800 like a diesel, its the 2.7 "eta." The engine code for the ETA was E30M27 IIRC.

They you get into to the 'Super ETAs" for the 88 my.

I agree, id buy that in a heartbeat. No questions asked, just "sold."

Personally id take the 2.7. Its still powerful car and i like its torque, though im sure the 2.5 isnt bad. Both are inline 6s. Some engines are 4-cyl and large as 2.5..


Oh come on, the eta engine is a piece of garbage. People spend good money taking 325e's and swapping the engine out just to get rid of it. It's a SMOG PIG and nothing else.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Some engines are 4-cyl and large as 2.5..


HUH? maybe in an M3, but the NA market 4 cyl engines were 1.8L. The early ones from the 1980s were one design, the M42 from the early 90's is a very advanced engine, distributorless, no EGR, etc.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: cchase
Oh come on, the eta engine is a piece of garbage. People spend good money taking 325e's and swapping the engine out just to get rid of it. It's a SMOG PIG and nothing else.


Its all just speculation and IIRC, the OP stated it was an i. Ive seen nice es models and with their torque, can be great drivers for certain applications. Not everyone needs to be >6000 RPM all the time. In fact, often it only provides marginal benefit.

If I had the two next to each other, would I buy an is or es? Id buy the i version for sure.

But if a nice e was presented up would I go for it? sure.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: 45ACP
Some engines are 4-cyl and large as 2.5..


Not BMW engines lol

HUH? maybe in an M3, but the NA market 4 cyl engines were 1.8L. The early ones from the 1980s were one design, the M42 from the early 90's is a very advanced engine, distributorless, no EGR, etc.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: cchase
Oh come on, the eta engine is a piece of garbage. People spend good money taking 325e's and swapping the engine out just to get rid of it. It's a SMOG PIG and nothing else.


Not BMW engines lol

Its all just speculation and IIRC, the OP stated it was an i. Ive seen nice es models and with their torque, can be great drivers for certain applications. Not everyone needs to be >6000 RPM all the time. In fact, often it only provides marginal benefit.

If I had the two next to each other, would I buy an is or es? Id buy the i version for sure.

But if a nice e was presented up would I go for it? sure.



1) Not BMW engines lol

And yeah i didnt want to be all alone out there, i like the eta. GREAT power. so, i disagree with the poster that does not like it.

 

[The Critic]

Hey guys, the trunk said "//M 325." The tachometer shows a redline at around 4500rpm, so I assume it's the 2.7L ETA?

 

[The Critic]

I did a quick lookover tonight in the dark and this is what I found so far. These are in no particular order:

- Needs a full Inspection II/30k service: tune-up, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, brake flush, power steering flush, coolant flush, fuel system service.
- Oil services has been done every 3-4k since my friend's ownership but with 5w30 instead of the correct 15w40; thanks Midas/Wheelworks!
- Timing belt was done about 30k ago by previous owner who was a tech at an indy BMW shop. Drive belts appeared to be in good shape so I guess the PO did actually do the work.
- LR door will not open from the inside. Friend handed me a door lock actuator and mumbled something about a security system issue, but I think those are separate issues.
- 3rd rear brake light is out.
- Roar from front end beginning at about 35 mph. Stops when you corner. I guess it needs new front wheel bearings.
- Braking performance is a bit inadequate but not unsafe. Pedal is firm but pads feel wooden.
- Clutch feels good without any slipping; I was not able to duplicate the sticking clutch problem that was previously mentioned. If the issue does pop up, I am guessing that it maybe a slave cyl problem.
- He mentioned something about the car running slightly hot during hot weather in-town, but not on the highway. Perhaps the radiator is slightly clogged? Fan works OK and other cooling system parts seem OK.
- Oil leaks from valve cover gasket and around spark plug wires (where they go into the cyl). Midas, who did the last service, mentioned there being a large oil leak underneath the vehicle but I was not able to verify that since it was dark. Or it could be from the valve cover.
- Front passenger seat will not slide back. Issue with the seat rails? Not sure.
- Steering and suspension feel OK but it is possible that it could use a refresh with new control arms, ball joints, bushings, tie rods, trailing arm bushings, struts, etc.
- Interior is in good shape for a 25 yr old car, leather looks almost new.
- Two rear speakers are not working.
- Engine runs well and pulls strong and the gearbox shifts without any grinding. However, the shifter bushings feel a bit worn.
- All electrical works unless otherwise noted.

Overall, the car seems to be in OK shape for 25 years old. However, it appears that there has been some deferred maintenance issues and some minor to moderate issues that need to be addressed.

I gave my friend $20 and told him to take it to wheel works this week to have a complete vehicle inspection done so that I can have a better idea on the brakes, oil leaks, suspension/driveline and the wheel bearings.

Thoughts?

 

[rslifkin]

Sounds like a pretty good deal if you don't mind putting a bit of time and effort into it.

 

[TooManyWheels]

You might want to consider your motivations here. Have you suddenly become interested in old cars? That is what this is. If it did not have that "magic" BMW lable would you give this project ANY consideration?

I don't want to be a wet blanket, but my guess is that you will put six months and a couple of thousand dollars into it, at which point you will be sick and tired of it and ready to move to something else, taking a loss of time and money in the process.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: TooManyWheels
You might want to consider your motivations here.

Agreed. If the main reason for buying this would be to learn how to drive stick, you'd be better off finding something else, maybe somewhat more expensive, but not requiring so much work and $$ to get it to run properly. Although, not everything on that long list would require fixing just to start learning the stick.

If on the other hand you're looking for a project car, something to do, tinker with, then this one sounds like an interesting deal.

 

[45ACP]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Hey guys, the trunk said "//M 325." The tachometer shows a redline at around 4500rpm, so I assume it's the 2.7L ETA?


[censored], im good.

That "M" isnt supposed to be there, though there WAS an M-Technic II package that added the /// to the shift knob and steering wheel. Maybe you have that, though i forget the year. I think it was yours.

Also, check this out as to the dash. Count the marks. There are 5. You have an ETA.

Here. This is your dashboard.

Begins :24.. hear the "Whoosh" of the wastegate... And thats off an S52US..

Im not sure what the other osters were talking about, 1988 was the transition year and there were some "Super ETAs" in 1988, they were NOT the horrible engine cchase makes them out to be. For learning stick, its hard to find a better car. You can let the clutch out slow, not touch the gas -at all- and have it pull. This opposite a Honda or Subaru where you need to rev it up to roughly 3000RPM then get off the clutch.

If you dont like the ca,r its EASILY sellable. Particularly to BMW enthusiast. UnoffocialB
If you like it, you can do whatever your heart pleases, up to and including this.