This is my very first post on BITOG but I have been reading for a while now. I will be leaving for college in a few weeks and driving my 1986 f150. From my home in western NC to Raleigh, it is about 270 miles and I will be making this trip down and back about twice a month. My truck is in very good condition for its age and has a Jasper 302 efi replacement engine with between 90,000-110,000 miles on it (previous owner had the engine installed so I am not sure on the exact mileage). The engine is bone stock and does not burn or leak oil. My driving style is relaxed around town but the engine gets reved pretty good on the interstate at 70-75 mph since I have a 4 speed manual. I am not comfortable going over a 5000 mile oci. Right now I am running the standard Royal Purple 10w-30 but am concerned that it might not have enough zinc/phosphorus. I have read about a million posts on this subject and answers range from ther being enough zddp in standard motor oils to protect your engine to you will immediately experience a camshaft failure if you dont have x ppm of zddp in your oil. So what do the oil gurus have to say about my situation?
1986 f150 oil recommendation
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Oh I almost forgot. Temperatures where I am range from single digits in the mountains in winter to 100+ in Raleigh in the summer.
Mobil 1 High Mile 10w30
Castrol GTX High Mile 10w30
Valvoline Max Life 10w30
Or Rotella T5 blend 10w30
with motorcraft oil filter, can get all at walmart.
Castrol GTX High Mile 10w30
Valvoline Max Life 10w30
Or Rotella T5 blend 10w30
with motorcraft oil filter, can get all at walmart.
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I doubt the valve spring pressures on a stock 86 are high enough to worry about ZDDP. Probably fine with 10w30 PYB or similar.
I have a 1990 F150 with a flat tappet camshaft and I use regular off the shelf motor oil without any zddp additives. I've driven it from Henderson, NC (I'm sure you know where that is) all the way to Houston, TX using regular off the shelf motor oil and I haven't lost a camshaft/engine yet. And I was using cheap conventional oil when I did that because I had a leak.
The engine (if it still has stock specs) by design does not really have enough camshaft lift or valve spring pressure to have zddp worries. Expecially if it's made it this far. I say use your favorite oil and don't lose any sleep over it.
If I had to recommend an oil strictly for zddp concerns, I'd say to go with Rotella 5w-40 or maybe Rotella 10w-30. I've used Rotella 5w-40 in my truck and it did very well on that. As a matter of fact, when I drained it, I noticed at the bottom of the drain plenty of engine buildup that it cleaned out. Another recommendation would be a full synthetic high mileage oil. They usually have higher amounts of zddp from what I've researched.
I'm currently using Quaker State 10w-30 synthetic because I found a smokin deal on it, but I generally use 5w-30 or 5w-40 full synthetic oils.
The engine (if it still has stock specs) by design does not really have enough camshaft lift or valve spring pressure to have zddp worries. Expecially if it's made it this far. I say use your favorite oil and don't lose any sleep over it.
If I had to recommend an oil strictly for zddp concerns, I'd say to go with Rotella 5w-40 or maybe Rotella 10w-30. I've used Rotella 5w-40 in my truck and it did very well on that. As a matter of fact, when I drained it, I noticed at the bottom of the drain plenty of engine buildup that it cleaned out. Another recommendation would be a full synthetic high mileage oil. They usually have higher amounts of zddp from what I've researched.
I'm currently using Quaker State 10w-30 synthetic because I found a smokin deal on it, but I generally use 5w-30 or 5w-40 full synthetic oils.
If your worried about zddp use Rotella T5 10W-30 it's a synthetic blend all around great performer and can be had cheap and is easy to find
Not a high mile engine....Therefore a good 10w 30/40 will be fine ...Jaspers are good, they really have their name "out there "so they'll stand to their warranty ...10/5w 30 or 40 will be good.
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Like mentioned above, you can't go wrong with the Rotella. All grades have the CJ4 rating, which is for diesel engines. They need the extra detergents (ZDDP, Moly, etc.) and help gasoline engines with buildup. I'm running the T6 Fully Synthetic 5W40 ($21.50ish for (4) quarts, Walmart) and would feel confident with this product in your application. If the truck didn't like the 40 viscosity, go down to the T5 Synthetic Blend 10W30 ($16 for (4) quarts, Walmart).
And congratulations on your upcoming collegiate experiences. I went to Carolina. A different world from the rural community I was from. Good blessings and take it easy on 40 with that '86. Going 60-65 will only cost you 10-15 minutes but will save in gas and wear and tear. Those model trucks were geared to go 55.
Oh and avoid 40 between 3-6 if possible. If I could, I tried to schedule early enough Friday classes to get out in time.
And congratulations on your upcoming collegiate experiences. I went to Carolina. A different world from the rural community I was from. Good blessings and take it easy on 40 with that '86. Going 60-65 will only cost you 10-15 minutes but will save in gas and wear and tear. Those model trucks were geared to go 55.
Oh and avoid 40 between 3-6 if possible. If I could, I tried to schedule early enough Friday classes to get out in time.
Since your engine is fairly new I would run any name brand 5-30.If you dont have a favorite just grab what is on sale and change it every 4-5000 miles on dino and 7-8000 on synthetic to ease your mind .You will get lots of opinions here so weed through them and dont get caught up in long runs on oil.Do what feels good to you.
I have a 1987 F-150 302 and I love my old truck.,
Good luck in school.
I have a 1987 F-150 302 and I love my old truck.,
Good luck in school.
I've got a 5 speed 1990 F150 but it has a Inline 300 6 cylinder. I've run lots of diff. oils in this and anything will work well. Lately I've been running Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage because I got it at Walmart a yr or so ago on sale for $9.00 per 5 qt. jug!!! I'm trying it for about one yr OCI and will have a Used Oil Analysis (UOA) run sometime this Fall. Keep your eyes open for it! I'd guess I'll only have about 6-7,000 hard miles on it when I'm done. If it holds up well, I'll use up the Mobil 1 and then continue with whatever oil I find on sale, dino or synthetic it won't matter much but it will probly be a high mileage oil either way. Good luck, study hard!
Thanks for all the help guys. I think I will just keep running a 10w-30 synthetic and not fret too much about the zddp content, at least untill it starts burning oil. Then I might switch to a heavier diesel dino oil. I really like this site. So much to learn, so little time.
Originally Posted By: 1911man6910
Thanks for all the help guys. I think I will just keep running a 10w-30 synthetic and not fret too much about the zddp content, at least untill it starts burning oil. Then I might switch to a heavier diesel dino oil. I really like this site. So much to learn, so little time.
If it starts burning oil or if you begin to see oil consumption, get the valve stem seals replaced. That's quite common on the 302.
Thanks for all the help guys. I think I will just keep running a 10w-30 synthetic and not fret too much about the zddp content, at least untill it starts burning oil. Then I might switch to a heavier diesel dino oil. I really like this site. So much to learn, so little time.
If it starts burning oil or if you begin to see oil consumption, get the valve stem seals replaced. That's quite common on the 302.
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