1983 RX-7 oil recomendation
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My recollection is that that vintage of RX was a conventional only engine, synthetic not recommended, I suppose because of the rotor seals in the engine and the amount of oil that gets past them (these things can use up to a QT every 200 miles or so if driven hard, right?)...but the real question is "what does the manual say?"...while specs have changed, I wonder about the viscosity recommendation...
I had a sweet 85 that I loved. Used a little oil, as I recall it was actually deliberate in an attempt to lubricate those pesky apex seals.
I'm pretty sure that motor would be happiest on a real dino or maybe a blend. I can't believe a Full Synthetic would be easy enough to combust.
I'm pretty sure that motor would be happiest on a real dino or maybe a blend. I can't believe a Full Synthetic would be easy enough to combust.
Yeah they recommended only dino on those engines. Use Pennzoil conventional, Quaker State, or some other decent conventional.
If ya want extra anti wear additives something like a 10w30 HDEO would work great as well.
If ya want extra anti wear additives something like a 10w30 HDEO would work great as well.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
I had a sweet 85 that I loved. Used a little oil, as I recall it was actually deliberate in an attempt to lubricate those pesky apex seals.
I'm pretty sure that motor would be happiest on a real dino or maybe a blend. I can't believe a Full Synthetic would be easy enough to combust.
Yes they have a metering oil pump so they are designed to burn oil. Do you think a blend would combust sufficiently? I haven't put enough miles on it in three yrs of owning it to see much consumption. This car is an absolute gem. Problem is it just sits in the garage.
I had a sweet 85 that I loved. Used a little oil, as I recall it was actually deliberate in an attempt to lubricate those pesky apex seals.
I'm pretty sure that motor would be happiest on a real dino or maybe a blend. I can't believe a Full Synthetic would be easy enough to combust.
Yes they have a metering oil pump so they are designed to burn oil. Do you think a blend would combust sufficiently? I haven't put enough miles on it in three yrs of owning it to see much consumption. This car is an absolute gem. Problem is it just sits in the garage.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Yeah they recommended only dino on those engines. Use Pennzoil conventional, Quaker State, or some other decent conventional.
If ya want extra anti wear additives something like a 10w30 HDEO would work great as well.
THX! What is HDEO?
Yeah they recommended only dino on those engines. Use Pennzoil conventional, Quaker State, or some other decent conventional.
If ya want extra anti wear additives something like a 10w30 HDEO would work great as well.
THX! What is HDEO?
Use a dino only! 10-30 or 10-40, and premix tc-w3 in the gas at 1oz per gallon every so often (or all the time) and it'll last forever!
Originally Posted By: liverup
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Yeah they recommended only dino on those engines. Use Pennzoil conventional, Quaker State, or some other decent conventional.
If ya want extra anti wear additives something like a 10w30 HDEO would work great as well.
THX! What is HDEO?
HDEO means a diesel rated oil. Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, or Chevron Delo are all good heavy duty engine oils (HDEO) that are often as cheap or sometimes cheaper than PCMO (personal car motor oils). They have higher anti wear additive packages and good dispersant and detergent packages.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Yeah they recommended only dino on those engines. Use Pennzoil conventional, Quaker State, or some other decent conventional.
If ya want extra anti wear additives something like a 10w30 HDEO would work great as well.
THX! What is HDEO?
HDEO means a diesel rated oil. Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, or Chevron Delo are all good heavy duty engine oils (HDEO) that are often as cheap or sometimes cheaper than PCMO (personal car motor oils). They have higher anti wear additive packages and good dispersant and detergent packages.
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My friend used to have a 93 RX7 twin turbo. He used dino Quaker State 10W30. Me,I`d go 10W40 (Havoline,Valvoline,Shell,Pennzoil,etc).
Found it:
For the Non-Renesis:
-Oil control rings don't like synthetic
-Oil injection adapter or pre-mix is best option (Sohn)
-Don't use Group IV or Group V oils
-most cars lasting the longest have run xW-40 or xW-50 depending on ambient temperature
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24688
For the Non-Renesis:
-Oil control rings don't like synthetic
-Oil injection adapter or pre-mix is best option (Sohn)
-Don't use Group IV or Group V oils
-most cars lasting the longest have run xW-40 or xW-50 depending on ambient temperature
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24688
Originally Posted By: brandini
Use a dino only! 10-30 or 10-40, and premix tc-w3 in the gas at 1oz per gallon every so often (or all the time) and it'll last forever!
Others have also done this with good results.
Seems like good insurance.
Use a dino only! 10-30 or 10-40, and premix tc-w3 in the gas at 1oz per gallon every so often (or all the time) and it'll last forever!
Others have also done this with good results.
Seems like good insurance.
Originally Posted By: brandini
Found it:
For the Non-Renesis:
-Oil control rings don't like synthetic
-Oil injection adapter or pre-mix is best option (Sohn)
-Don't use Group IV or Group V oils
-most cars lasting the longest have run xW-40 or xW-50 depending on ambient temperature
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24688
Thank you for that! That pretty much debunks any thoughts I had about using a syn blend.
Found it:
For the Non-Renesis:
-Oil control rings don't like synthetic
-Oil injection adapter or pre-mix is best option (Sohn)
-Don't use Group IV or Group V oils
-most cars lasting the longest have run xW-40 or xW-50 depending on ambient temperature
http://www.rx8club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24688
Thank you for that! That pretty much debunks any thoughts I had about using a syn blend.
liver-
So you like the advice about "oil control rings"?
Your engine does not have any.
So you like the advice about "oil control rings"?
Your engine does not have any.
I say just pop in some Rotella and call it done. LOL. Cheap, robust, and loaded with all the good stuff an 80's engine needs. Far superior to the junky API SF 10w40 oils of the era.
Yep, A friend of mine had one. His best luck was with 15w40 HDEO and change it as soon as you get a hint of gas smell and next interval change it a little sooner. I remember the specialized spark plugs were the more expensive regularly wear item. Apex seals, bridge porting...so many people in his club were tweaking those things...6-puck clutches, dog gear transmissions, even a 3 rotor was up an running...and of course the turbo upgrades....Always fiddling with something.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
liver-
So you like the advice about "oil control rings"?
Your engine does not have any.
No mechtech2,
The advice I was liking was from the tech bulletin that brandini posted.
I'm well aware of the fact that my engine does not have oil control rings. I've owned a RX-2 and 4 RX-7's.
Thanks though. I guess one never knows.
liver-
So you like the advice about "oil control rings"?
Your engine does not have any.
No mechtech2,
The advice I was liking was from the tech bulletin that brandini posted.
I'm well aware of the fact that my engine does not have oil control rings. I've owned a RX-2 and 4 RX-7's.
Thanks though. I guess one never knows.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
I say just pop in some Rotella and call it done. LOL. Cheap, robust, and loaded with all the good stuff an 80's engine needs. Far superior to the junky API SF 10w40 oils of the era.
That sounds like a plan.
Are you familiar with the rotary? In 1984 my dad bought me a RX-2 SMOKED like crazy. My friend's dad had a shop. He was a 20+ yr chev mechanic. He said we can overhaul that. Took it out and disassmbled it. He was scratching his head! Ended up hauling it to the mazda dealership in a box and a five gallon bucket and exchanged it for a new engine. At that time it wasnt much more than around $600 exchange. A guy wouldnt do that today.
Thanks for the info.
I say just pop in some Rotella and call it done. LOL. Cheap, robust, and loaded with all the good stuff an 80's engine needs. Far superior to the junky API SF 10w40 oils of the era.
That sounds like a plan.
Are you familiar with the rotary? In 1984 my dad bought me a RX-2 SMOKED like crazy. My friend's dad had a shop. He was a 20+ yr chev mechanic. He said we can overhaul that. Took it out and disassmbled it. He was scratching his head! Ended up hauling it to the mazda dealership in a box and a five gallon bucket and exchanged it for a new engine. At that time it wasnt much more than around $600 exchange. A guy wouldnt do that today.
Thanks for the info.
Castrol red cap in the summer is good, good down to 20F I think. Rotella for colder than that. 5w30 is good only below freezing, really, it should all be under the backwards hood.
Experiemnt with tcw3, an ounce every other gallon works well and you can try every gallon (as was mentioned) just see which way revs, pulls and idles smoother or more cleanly.
Experiemnt with tcw3, an ounce every other gallon works well and you can try every gallon (as was mentioned) just see which way revs, pulls and idles smoother or more cleanly.
Originally Posted By: liverup
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
I say just pop in some Rotella and call it done. LOL. Cheap, robust, and loaded with all the good stuff an 80's engine needs. Far superior to the junky API SF 10w40 oils of the era.
That sounds like a plan.
Are you familiar with the rotary? In 1984 my dad bought me a RX-2 SMOKED like crazy. My friend's dad had a shop. He was a 20+ yr chev mechanic. He said we can overhaul that. Took it out and disassmbled it. He was scratching his head! Ended up hauling it to the mazda dealership in a box and a five gallon bucket and exchanged it for a new engine. At that time it wasnt much more than around $600 exchange. A guy wouldnt do that today.
Thanks for the info.
I worked on a few here and there, but not too many. My old man worked on a lot of em back in the 80's and early 90's when they were more common.
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
I say just pop in some Rotella and call it done. LOL. Cheap, robust, and loaded with all the good stuff an 80's engine needs. Far superior to the junky API SF 10w40 oils of the era.
That sounds like a plan.
Are you familiar with the rotary? In 1984 my dad bought me a RX-2 SMOKED like crazy. My friend's dad had a shop. He was a 20+ yr chev mechanic. He said we can overhaul that. Took it out and disassmbled it. He was scratching his head! Ended up hauling it to the mazda dealership in a box and a five gallon bucket and exchanged it for a new engine. At that time it wasnt much more than around $600 exchange. A guy wouldnt do that today.
Thanks for the info.
I worked on a few here and there, but not too many. My old man worked on a lot of em back in the 80's and early 90's when they were more common.
Originally Posted By: liverup
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
liver-
So you like the advice about "oil control rings"?
Your engine does not have any.
No mechtech2,
The advice I was liking was from the tech bulletin that brandini posted.
I'm well aware of the fact that my engine does not have oil control rings. I've owned a RX-2 and 4 RX-7's.
Thanks though. I guess one never knows.
You guys might want to do some research. They most certainly do have oil control rings. They are on the side of the rotor.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
liver-
So you like the advice about "oil control rings"?
Your engine does not have any.
No mechtech2,
The advice I was liking was from the tech bulletin that brandini posted.
I'm well aware of the fact that my engine does not have oil control rings. I've owned a RX-2 and 4 RX-7's.
Thanks though. I guess one never knows.
You guys might want to do some research. They most certainly do have oil control rings. They are on the side of the rotor.
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