1st Generation Rx-7 Oil Discussion (Rotary Engine)

Pennzoil motor oil
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Originally Posted By: **** in Falls Church
Drivebelt said:
I'm also like HDEO 15w40 suggestion.

-- "synthetic-like" performance for half the cost of synthetics.


Sounds something like "partly pregnant"!
Hey, … (my grammar stunk on that first sentence…
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) but I thought that was a fairly apt description of the performance qualities of HDEO Group II's.
beer3.gif


rearviewmirror ... you might check this article out ...

Quote:
etrucker…
Chevron research compares the performance of Chevron Delo 400 15w40, made from Group II base stock, with a 5W-40 synthetic oil; oil changes were made at 45,000 miles. It shows the mineral oil performs as well as or better than the synthetic oil in fuel economy, oil condition (including viscosity) and engine wear.
Click to expand...
 
What oils do you guys think would burn cleanest? Would you worry about ash or carbon deposits scuffing the apex or side seals or just lifting the seal? Carbon deposits under the apex/side seals jamming up the springs?
Do esters leave more ash/carbon deposits the Grp III?
What additives burn cleaner?
 
I had an '85 GSL-SE, loved it!

I ran either Mobil Delvac 15w40 or Castrol Tection Extra 15w40, both were supposed to be fairly low-ash oils. used oil analysis were fine (do a search, they still might be on here, but they may have been posted before the site update). Clean-burning, cheap, and available everywhere. I've had 3 RX-7's, all of them love the diesel oils (non-sythetic), but I have also tried Royal Purple in each of them with no real negatives, just increased cost. Stick with the Delvac or Tection, you'll be fine.

I used to get 25mpg on the highway with a Racing Beat header and exhaust (fairly quiet) with my 200-mile daily commute, about the same as my 4-cyl Subaru. The '89 GTUs, was another story!
 
15w-40 rotella or any decent 10w-40. I'd avoid the syn. There's a fellow here in town who specializes in the RX-7. Rebuilds, Mods and silly engine swaps... He absolutely says to avoid the synthetics - reason was something obscure but he makes his living hopping up rotaries so we took his advice.

Also - KEEP AN EYE on your fuel pulsation damper - little rubber nub on the end of the fuel rail, tucked in the intake manifold. Will seep, then weep, then crack, spraying fuel over the engine. $15 part, all-day replacement. Easy to see, hard to remove. Catastrophic if not maintained.

Great Car! So much fun to drive. Similar underpinnings as the miata (really, the other way around...).

M
 
Originally Posted By: meep
15w-40 rotella or any decent 10w-40. I'd avoid the syn. There's a fellow here in town who specializes in the RX-7. Rebuilds, Mods and silly engine swaps... He absolutely says to avoid the synthetics - reason was something obscure but he makes his living hopping up rotaries so we took his advice.

Also - KEEP AN EYE on your fuel pulsation damper - little rubber nub on the end of the fuel rail, tucked in the intake manifold. Will seep, then weep, then crack, spraying fuel over the engine. $15 part, all-day replacement. Easy to see, hard to remove. Catastrophic if not maintained.

Great Car! So much fun to drive. Similar underpinnings as the miata (really, the other way around...).

M


Where do you get a $15 Pulsation Damper? They're like $139 on MazdaTrix!
 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NSU_Motorenwerke_AG
http://cp_www.tripod.com/rotary/pg05.htm#spyder
I'd give the title of the 1st Wankel/rotary sports car to the 1964 NSU Wankel Spider. What do you guys think?
I'll give it to Jay (Bernard?) for a clean 12a swap. 200hp? doesn't sound like a bridgeport...

There's 2-3 rotary-specific synthetic oils out there but they don't advertise what group they are. google for "rotary synthetic"
I can remember an old myth/legend about Mazda testing synthetics in rotories in the early 80's and 1 oil caused excessive wear or ash deposits? Rather than naming the brand they said no to synthetics in general.
M1 says not to use synthetics in rotaries but plenty of people use it anyways. Motorcraft oil is the bunk oil at lotsa Mazda dealers, that's a synblend.

Royal Pruple claims an "ashless" basestock that works fine in rotaries.
http://www.rotaryart.uk.com/acatalog/RPused-rotaryengRA
http://royalpurple.com/rp-faqs.html

Would a low ash (low SAPS?) HDEO have less additives than a PCMO? About the same as a "Euro" oil?
How does a 2-stroke oil compare? Would that have less zinc?
Do Grp-IV or Grp-V synthetics leave more or less ash deposits than Grp-III?
 
Idemitsu, RE Magic, and Trust have rotary synthetic oils?

M1 is just agreeing with Mazda.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Mobil1_Mazda_Rotary_Engine.aspx
Question:
Using Mobil 1 in a Mazda Rotary Engine
I have a 2005 Mazda RX-8. This has a rotary engine, which injects oil into its intake path. Can I use Mobil 1 without risk of incomplete oil burn and or buildup?
-- Matt Hejnas, Central Valley, NY

Answer:
Mazda does not recommend the use of synthetic oils in its rotary engines. To help maintain your vehicle's warranty coverage, we suggest that you follow your car builder's engine oil recommendation.
 
Kendall makes a 10W-50 syn blend oil, if you are still considering that option....it looks like a pretty good all-round oil.....
 
I just mentioned that hoping someone would comment on how that blend would burn. Ashless?
 
Originally Posted By: gtx510
I just mentioned that hoping someone would comment on how that blend would burn. Ashless?


That just might be the key to why it is rotary compatible. Hopefully someone will provide some insight.
 
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