1976 280Z

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For 2 years I 'v used Mobil 1 15W-50 in my Z car. Except for a header, it's bone stock. The car was never equipped with a catalytic converter. It consumes VERY LITTLE oil between changes and has 150K miles on the bottom end. The car has a 4-speed manual, factory a/c and I drive it HARD. As some may remember---the valvetrain on Zs of this vintage is SOLID and requires adjustment every 10-15K miles or so. The Mobile 1 has the higher levels of ZDDP that flat tappet cams like. But I'v read some good reviews here 'bout Pennzoil Platinum. 5W-50 is availible at the local NAPA. Question is: Does it contain adequate amounts/PPM of ZDDP to keep the valvetrain happy? Nightime temps RARELY drop below 40 degrees here. And right now temps are in the low to mid 90s.
 
Sweeeeet car! I always ran a dino 20W50 in my `77 280Z. I used everything from Exxon Superflow to Castrol GTX. If I had it to do all over again,I`d run either Pennzoil yb 20W50,15W40,or Mobil 1 15W50. I`d just keep on using the M1 15W50. I bet your car runs great on that oil! How many miles are on your Z?
 
Back in the day I ran 10W-30 Quaker State and Fram filters in my '74 260Z.

That car meant the world to me.

I was never really thrilled with the QS at the time but that was what the car was started on....so I kept using it.

In the end, the engine on the Z was still pumping even though you could see through both rocker panels.

Today I don't know what I'd use...

GC?

Redline??

The new SL spec Super Tech dino???

Pennzoil 20W-50????

Stay with the Mobil, it's been treating you fine.
 
You guys are lucky, I am the only one so far posting who has not owned one of those awesome cars. It's on my top 3 of cars I'd ever want to restore and drive.. I love Datsuns! (I'm a Nissan guy through and through) I just can't afford the ones I want!
 
Properly restored 240s are pricey. But nice orignal or refurbished 280Zs are NOT that expensive. Stay away from the rusty one's (MOST of 'em are rusty). Stay away from the one's that need lots of work---the resto/parts costs are HIGH. Except for the bodies, these cars are incredibly durable. The motors are just broken in at about 150,000 miles. In stock form, they aren't the fastest cars around. But they handle great and the driving feel is unmatched by today's cars. Best thing is they aren't $75,000 like a mid-year Corvette or 69 Z28.
 
Man, this brings back memories. I bought a new '76 280z for a whopping $7,600 back in the day and my mom thought I was crazy for paying that much for a car. I kept it for 12 years and 230,000 miles. I loved that car. But a growing family made it impractical, so I sold it to my nephew with the stipulation that I had first shot if he decided to get rid of it. Alas, an inattentive driver of a Crown Vic plowed into the Z, which was sitting still at the time, at an intersection and totaled it. Fortunately my nephew wasn't hurt. I rue the day I ever got rid of it. It was a GREAT car. It wasn't the most powerful (fastest I was willing to push it was 132 mph on the speedo), but boy it could hang a curve.
 
Man I`d soooooooooooooooooooo love to get my hands on a mint `69 240Z!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Sorry addyguy, forgot to check the thread. Believe it or not, I ran Castrol GTX 20W-50. I was in "the thickerer the better" column back then and still have trouble putting 5W-20 in anything. I ran the [censored] out of that car and it just kept asking for more.
 
I'd use a synthetic 40wt or 50wt for summer, M1 15W-50, M1/Rotella 5W-40, etc. Or uber-oils like Redline, Amsoil, Neo, etc...
You might be able to get away with a hearty 30wt (ACEA A3 for higher HTHS) during the winter. German Castrol 0W-30? Valvoline Maxlife? Brad Penn? Joe Gibbs?

Below are links to the L16/L18/L20b service manuals, they're for the 4-banger engine but the oil requirements will be the same.
http://www.olddatsuns.com/620tech.htm
http://www.olddatsuns.com/data/Service_Manual_Model_L16_&_L18_Series_Engines.pdf 10W-30 or 10W-40, -4F to +100F

The (older) L-series engines used rocker arms with fairly light springs. I don't recall cam/rocker wear being a problem like it is with flat tappet engines.
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/valvetrain/springs/index.htm ~217 lbs/in combined spring rate

http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/tech/valves.html handy valve adjustment tips
 
Use a 15w/40 HDEO oil it out performs pcmo syns and costs way less and protects motors costing more than most of our cars are worth.
 
I also bought a new 1975 280z for $7000.00. I had it for 5 years and 100,000 miles. I ran 20w-50 Castrol with fram oil filters. Didn't know any better. 3k OCI's. . This car never burned oil and I drove the sh-t out of it. I sold it because I started to get lots of tickets. I was very young.
 
Just acquired a '78 280 Z two weeks ago, my fourth Z car ! Body is in great shape, and it "appears to have only 88k miles on the clock! I don't think it has turned over, the interior is almost like new. Some minor rust , mostly surface for now, will start body work in the fall, and hope to have it ready by next summer. I put in Rotella 15w40, for the cleaning effect and the viscosity. Ran that for two weeks with a Fram, it was pitch black in just two weeks of cleaning. Thinking about Auto Rx. Will be totatlly rebuilding engine and trans, and will probably run Rotella syn 5w40 or Delo, great oils for these flat tappet motors, in my simple opinion of course. Maybe I'll see you on the Z forums !
 
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