I am not sure how many miles it got for a total, but I bought it from my insurance agent and replaced the backup lamp lense and wife and I continued to drive it for another year and my neighbor bought it to drive to his job in another city 40 miles away and he drove it several years. He traded it off later. The LA motors are known to last more than 200k miles and some go over 300K miles. Neighbor only had to put a starter on it. The AC and Trans was good when I bought it. It had 112K on it when I bought it. I had to replace a freeze plug and the water pump. Plugs batteries and tires and brakes of course but it never used oil or had front end work while I owned it. Was a Root Beer color with Cream vinyl roof. Very nice looking but HUGE.
1973 Lincoln Continental / Ford LTD reliability and longevity.
- Thread starter Bill7
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I'll be checking Craigslist daily for a mint one. Willing to pay more for one in excellent condition. The one's I'm seeing now are fine but not mint (kind of showing their age). Does anyone know of a good internet forum for these 1970's era Ford LTD, Lincoln Continental, Mercury Grand Marquis? This thread was very helpful in showing me common weaknesses of the cars. But an internet forum on these cars would be very helpful.
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I like these old cars. I just don't think that they are worth what is being asked, especially since repair/upgrades could easily double that cost.
1978 Mercury Marquis
1978 Mercury Marquis 10K Original Mile Survivor 6.6L V8 400 Automatic Trans PDB
www.smokymountaintraders.com
1978 Mercury Grand Marquis | eBay
Car runs and drives great, 400 v8 engine, cruise works, air conditioning and heat work excellent! Car did have a bug shield on it so two small holes above the headlights, only rust is in the common area on these cars in the corner of the hood.
www.ebay.com
1976 Lincoln Continental | eBay
1976 Lincoln Continental Town Car. 1976 Lincoln Continental 41k miles Best Price Rare. Continental Town Car. All of our vehicle's are considered used. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary from vehicle to vehicle.
www.ebay.com
1979 Lincoln Continental Collector's Series | eBay
For sale by our Tampa showroom is this sharp 1979 Lincoln Continental Collector Series. The engine is paired of to a smooth shifting 3-speed automatic transmission. The car is painted in the classic Silver with a Blue top that flows with the blue interior well.
www.ebay.com
A lot would depend on the condition of the car you find, but I wouldn't rely on one as a daily driver. As a project or a toy that you drive when you want to, sure. If I were in the market for 1970s iron, I would get as close to 1970 as possible. The engines will have more power and will be simpler to work on without EGR and a catalytic converter. All makes had lowered the compression by about 1972, and some in 1971. Power was way down by the end of the decade. Taste is relative, but for me, styling really took a dive around '73 or '74.
I daily-drove a Slant-Six Duster from 1991-97 or 98, but that car was pretty much the exact opposite of what you're looking at. Its longevity was helped by the fact that it had almost nothing to break--no A/C, and manual trans, brakes, steering, windows, and locks. It had one vacuum line, for the distributor. A long trip in summer made you feel like you had been stacking hay all day. My next car, a 1987 Caprice police model with air and automatic, was luxurious in comparison.
I bought the Duster for $250 at about 77,000 miles, and it had 192,000 when the odometer broke a few months before I sold it. From points around the middle of the country, I took it as far away as Alligator Alley and Lake Tahoe. People looked at me like I was crazy, but I showed back up on time with a running car. Women ignored me. Thieves couldn't even see it.
That was a car from the days when a tune-up was really a thing. Points and condenser every 10k. Plugs too? I can't remember if they lasted longer. The last set of plugs were the much-maligned Bosch Platinums. They actually made it feel a little smoother. I did clean the cap and rotor contacts to stretch them through a few tuneups. One or two valve lash adjustments. Oil changes every 2-3k. Some repairs I remember during the 120k that I owned it:
Exhaust Manifold (The original was cracked.)
Front and rear brake shoes
Radiator
Water pump
Timing Chain (Oil use accelerated afterwards because I didn't seal the timing cover to the oil pan correctly.)
Front end rebuild, including the strange one-off A-body ball joints
Clutch
Trans tailshaft seal
Parts store rebuilt carburetor (Holley 1-barrel)
Rebuild for the rebuilt carb after a few years
Starter (maybe two)
Alternator
Blower motor
All of that was expected maintenance for a high-mileage vehicle, but I had more time for it back then. There were also the constant little things, like tracking down squeaks and rattles, stuffing vacuum hose behind the weatherstrip to stop wind noise, cleaning out the vent system so water wouldn't pour in every time you took off during a downpour driving through Austin in rush hour...
I daily-drove a Slant-Six Duster from 1991-97 or 98, but that car was pretty much the exact opposite of what you're looking at. Its longevity was helped by the fact that it had almost nothing to break--no A/C, and manual trans, brakes, steering, windows, and locks. It had one vacuum line, for the distributor. A long trip in summer made you feel like you had been stacking hay all day. My next car, a 1987 Caprice police model with air and automatic, was luxurious in comparison.
I bought the Duster for $250 at about 77,000 miles, and it had 192,000 when the odometer broke a few months before I sold it. From points around the middle of the country, I took it as far away as Alligator Alley and Lake Tahoe. People looked at me like I was crazy, but I showed back up on time with a running car. Women ignored me. Thieves couldn't even see it.
That was a car from the days when a tune-up was really a thing. Points and condenser every 10k. Plugs too? I can't remember if they lasted longer. The last set of plugs were the much-maligned Bosch Platinums. They actually made it feel a little smoother. I did clean the cap and rotor contacts to stretch them through a few tuneups. One or two valve lash adjustments. Oil changes every 2-3k. Some repairs I remember during the 120k that I owned it:
Exhaust Manifold (The original was cracked.)
Front and rear brake shoes
Radiator
Water pump
Timing Chain (Oil use accelerated afterwards because I didn't seal the timing cover to the oil pan correctly.)
Front end rebuild, including the strange one-off A-body ball joints
Clutch
Trans tailshaft seal
Parts store rebuilt carburetor (Holley 1-barrel)
Rebuild for the rebuilt carb after a few years
Starter (maybe two)
Alternator
Blower motor
All of that was expected maintenance for a high-mileage vehicle, but I had more time for it back then. There were also the constant little things, like tracking down squeaks and rattles, stuffing vacuum hose behind the weatherstrip to stop wind noise, cleaning out the vent system so water wouldn't pour in every time you took off during a downpour driving through Austin in rush hour...
amazing mark 4 for sale - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle...
Sadly selling our mark 4 continental, One owner. Everything works perfectly no any issues. Only 29,000 original miles basically like new this engines last forever. Has been garage all the time, only...
orangecounty.craigslist.org
With California emissions, performance, maintainability, fuel economy and longevity fell off the cliff in 1973. The other 49 states did either at the same time, or a year later. The clown bumpers (federal mandate) came out about the same time.
If I were you, I'd look for a '72 or earlier.
If I were you, I'd look for a '72 or earlier.
If you are going to purchase a Continental, stick with a 1972 MKIV. It is the prettiest Continental by far IMO and it will run better than anything newer. Purchase the nicest one that you can afford/find, and maybe spend a little more than you can really afford. Make sure that everything works! Anything that doesn't work will cost you a small fortune to get fixed. You don't want to purchase a project. It will not work out as being a bargain.
FYI, the loaded luxury versions of any Ford product from that era are known to have a multitude of electrical system problems. Make sure that someone hasn't been messing with (and butchered) the electrical system/wiring harness. Take a close look under the dash and hood, if you see signs of wiring that has been messed with take a hard pass.
FYI, the loaded luxury versions of any Ford product from that era are known to have a multitude of electrical system problems. Make sure that someone hasn't been messing with (and butchered) the electrical system/wiring harness. Take a close look under the dash and hood, if you see signs of wiring that has been messed with take a hard pass.
Thanks for the tip on the electrical system - I never would have thought of that.
Good advice, since inside trim / parts are very hard to get, best to pay more and get a car in close to mint condition (not a project car).
Not so sure about that. Even the Escort was a good car at some points depending on the year and market.
Ford gets a lot of ribbing, and they do deserve a lot of it, but they definitely built a lot of good vehicles in a wide range of categories.
I like the "clunkiness" of my 1994 Explorer. It has that old car feel where things like the shifter and headlight switch are like something from a 70s car. The demographic that could afford it in the early 90s was probably used to that kind of car.
I think with anything over about a decade old, reliability comes down to the individual vehicle. What would have been typical reliability decades ago doesn't matter at all.
Thanks for the tips on finding a Ford close to 1970 to get the more powerful engine without the emission controls.
But sadly as other's have mentioned, these won't make good daily drivers.
Thanks for the very detailed post with the repair results for the Plymouth Duster. So those older Plymouths had their share of repairs, but nothing too bad. I remember the 1973 Plymouth Valient's with the straight 6 engine, those could go 150k miles easily.
My father owned many Fords from 60's- mid 70's. He had to do valve jobs before 50k miles . Valves held up better starting in 1974 with the introduction of unleaded gas.The frames rotted out just in front of the rear wheels. I liked the 1969 and 1970 LTD's because of the headlight doors. If you are serious, go for the 2 door models. The 4 door versions are not that desirable or worth much. I would buy models prior to 1974. Part availability will be like any old car, difficult. I have problems getting parts for my two 87's. Everything has to be ordered.
Keep in mind, anyone can ask what they want on Craigslist or whatever, but selling it for those peices is another story.
Keep in mind, anyone can ask what they want on Craigslist or whatever, but selling it for those peices is another story.
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Hmm, so my 67 Parklane is first an always California car so zero frame issues with it. The entire front and rear suspension has been rebuilt by me with upgrades in the rear for the stamped lateral arms. The car drives very well. Had to align myself as no one would tough the car. The original engine is at 153,000 miles along with the original C6. C6 has a little slip from 2nd-3rd no doubt because no one changed the fluid every 30K miles which they need. The gas mileage is probably around 12 mpg at most but don't care since it is not a daily driver. Trim parts are tough to find now probably because I bought all up back in 2003-05. Mechanical parts aren't an issue except if front disc brakes as most came with drums.
An exhaust manifold recently cracked in half so I'm pulling both heads with exhaust so I can use heat to remove those top bolts. The intake was just dropped off today to be hot tanked and have 55 years of cooked oil, now coke from a blast furnace, cleaned out. Discussing with the shop owner it was decided to bring the original heads down with the original vales to have him inspect. At a minimum the heads will get a valve job, new seals, and new guides. Springs and shafts will be checked to see if within spec. If it hadn't been for the cracked exhaust manifold then none of this would be on the menu for at least two more years while rebuilding a Sable 3.0L short block.
I am always looking for another big Merc but limit myself to 1972 and older. One, because I feel they ride better than the later years. Two, no smog check for me. Three, easier to work on for me. Fourth, somewhat less intrusion of vacuum and electrical items compared to mine. Fifth, more power from the power stand point. My 410 could easily hit 100 in short time with all the miles it has. The FE, with good care, is a dependable and long lived engine.
An exhaust manifold recently cracked in half so I'm pulling both heads with exhaust so I can use heat to remove those top bolts. The intake was just dropped off today to be hot tanked and have 55 years of cooked oil, now coke from a blast furnace, cleaned out. Discussing with the shop owner it was decided to bring the original heads down with the original vales to have him inspect. At a minimum the heads will get a valve job, new seals, and new guides. Springs and shafts will be checked to see if within spec. If it hadn't been for the cracked exhaust manifold then none of this would be on the menu for at least two more years while rebuilding a Sable 3.0L short block.
I am always looking for another big Merc but limit myself to 1972 and older. One, because I feel they ride better than the later years. Two, no smog check for me. Three, easier to work on for me. Fourth, somewhat less intrusion of vacuum and electrical items compared to mine. Fifth, more power from the power stand point. My 410 could easily hit 100 in short time with all the miles it has. The FE, with good care, is a dependable and long lived engine.
The FE (390 etc) series did have issues with valves and valve seats as the Medium blocks not really. They had hardened seats. The FE series wasn’t nearly as long lived. Typical 1960s issues across all lines.
Only the FE D2 heads were hardened seats, they were induction hardened, so a valve job or two removes the hardening, but a lot have now had hardened seats put in. I'm assuming FT heads are similar.
Not sure how the seats on Modified, Cleveland, Winsor and Lima motors were done...
Depends how far you would “daily drive” it in my opinion. 20 minutes to work I think you’d be fine. Hour to work each way I would pass. Just about everything you would need mechanically is available either in aftermarket or performance. As others said the body parts will be your biggest issue. Get the cleanest one you can find and go through EVERY system with a fine tooth comb. You always have the option to go with aftermarket EFI too.
The 385 series big blocks (like the 429s and 460s used in the Lincolns and large Ford products) were pretty stout and rugged engines. They were used in everything, such as... trucks, boats, motor homes, industrial equipment, construction equipment, etc. for many years. By 1972 they had become quite reliable. As time went along, emission controls took their toll on power and driveability, until EFI came along. Like Creekside said, one can always upgrade an older carbureted engine to an EFI system now days, improving a number of things fairly dramatically.
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