Im thinking of Rotella Syn 5w40 since the engine calls for 10w40,And modern non dielsel oils typically dont have enought additives. The engine is a 351 Cleavland with a Carb,Cam,And Exhaust upgrade. The car is still being restored but I plan to have it running sometime in the next 3 weeks and I want to change the oil before I start it.
1970 Mach 1
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That's a good oil, on the thicker end of 40 weights too. It's supposedly a group 3 syn (ie very refined dino), not that that makes it bad. Is this the first time you're running it after building it? Made a cheap 15w-40 would be better for the first run.
Ive inherited this car from my Dad. The engine it's self is all orginal except for the parts I listed above. Everything is broke in. I just want to get the old oil out since it smells like pure gasoline from the other carb spraying a Extremly rich mixture down its throat. I have ATF fluid down the carb right now to prevent the cylinder walls from gathering any rust. The engine hasnt been started since November. Since Ive been workin on the Undercarrage and some parts required me to disconnect the ignition wires. 7,000 miles on the entire car btw.
If that's a new camshaft, there are usually break-in procedures to be followed, no matter how well worn-in the rest of the engine may be. If the camshaft has some run time on it, then the Rotella 5w40 syn should be an excellent oil.
If the cam needs break-in, maybe run some dino Rotella or Delo for that. Otherwise, I think the Group III Rotella Syn 5w40 should make an excellent oil for that *wonderful* old Mustang Mach I!
If the cam needs break-in, maybe run some dino Rotella or Delo for that. Otherwise, I think the Group III Rotella Syn 5w40 should make an excellent oil for that *wonderful* old Mustang Mach I!
Adam123,
1970 was still leaded gas, but you should be able to run modern unleaded fuels with no problem. I'd stick with the higher octanes like 93+.
Also, see this thread on oil for old muscle cars.
Diesel Oil in Old Muscle Car
Personally, I'd stick with dino on this older motor unless it gets completely rebuilt.
1970 was still leaded gas, but you should be able to run modern unleaded fuels with no problem. I'd stick with the higher octanes like 93+.
Also, see this thread on oil for old muscle cars.
Diesel Oil in Old Muscle Car
Personally, I'd stick with dino on this older motor unless it gets completely rebuilt.
Ouch! MiraCD is right, with those 35-yr old seals, definitely safer to stay with dino oil. And better safe than sorry.
And take it from someone who remembers when that Mustang was new- back then it was defintely leaded gas. Run the best super unleaded you can find, & enjoy that magnificent car!
And take it from someone who remembers when that Mustang was new- back then it was defintely leaded gas. Run the best super unleaded you can find, & enjoy that magnificent car!
So this Engine Shouldn't require a lead substitute ?
Im thinking of trying the Syn For a few miles and then if I do develop a leak I'll switch back to the Dino and If that doesnt do the trick I'll just pull the motor and Redo the seals. Since this engine See's High Temps thanks to the small radiator ford installed, I would feel more comfortable with the syn.
Im thinking of trying the Syn For a few miles and then if I do develop a leak I'll switch back to the Dino and If that doesnt do the trick I'll just pull the motor and Redo the seals. Since this engine See's High Temps thanks to the small radiator ford installed, I would feel more comfortable with the syn.
Chrysler did a test years ago using lead-free on an engine requiring leaded, and the valves bit into the seats measurably, ruining the engine in 33,000 miles.
If your engine has rotators and unhardened seats, or if it requires leaded gas, yeah, use a lead substitute.
If your engine has rotators and unhardened seats, or if it requires leaded gas, yeah, use a lead substitute.
Adam, the thing is: if you use synthetic & it begins to leak, there's no guarantee that switching back to dino will stop that leak. It might very well be there to stay.
While Group III oil(like Rotella Syn)is, in theory, less likely to cause problems than Group IV oil(like Mobil 1), it still might be better to err on the side of caution.
If that engine has the original seals, I'd strongly recommend sticking with a good dino diesel-rated oil. A good 15w40 dino like Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella should do very well.
1970 Mustang Mach I!
I always thought the 69 & 70 fastback Mustangs were absolutely *great* looking cars.
While Group III oil(like Rotella Syn)is, in theory, less likely to cause problems than Group IV oil(like Mobil 1), it still might be better to err on the side of caution.
If that engine has the original seals, I'd strongly recommend sticking with a good dino diesel-rated oil. A good 15w40 dino like Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella should do very well.
1970 Mustang Mach I!
You need to use a lead substitute or blend in some leaded racing gas. If you plan on driving it a lot, might be better to pull the heads and have hardened seats installed.
If it is an auto trans, use Type F. Manual trans and rear diff uses gear oil. Is the rear diff a Detroit Locker? Or does it have a Traction-Lok? Traction-Lok needs a special additive so it won't chatter. You can get it from Ford, and it smells really bad. IIRC, it comes in a 4 ounce bottle.
Post a pic of the car! One of my all time favorite muscle cars.
If it is an auto trans, use Type F. Manual trans and rear diff uses gear oil. Is the rear diff a Detroit Locker? Or does it have a Traction-Lok? Traction-Lok needs a special additive so it won't chatter. You can get it from Ford, and it smells really bad. IIRC, it comes in a 4 ounce bottle.
Post a pic of the car! One of my all time favorite muscle cars.
alright I will. I have the front right fender off right now to cut a section out were the battery leaked acid and eat out the supports. It needs a few thing done to it,But mostly now its just a paint job,And a new wiring harness I dont want to trust the orginal,It does just fine running for a few minutes Im just afraid I'll go somewere and come back out and my pride and joy will be going up in smoke. Run leaded Substiture,And use Shell Rotella dino got it !
Congradulations, you have one of the finest muscle cars ever built! The 351 in your car made it one of the best balanced high performance pony cars of all time. I had a lot of experience with these types of cars when I ran my dyno shop. I think you want to stick with dino oils, the diesel or motorcycle oils will work best. Also, I can highly recommend Redline lead substitute. It actually works like promised, and it will help extend your valve seat and guide life using modern fuel.
My first car was a 1969 Mach1!
It was funny - one of the first things I did when I tried to rebuild the top-end was get new pushrods. I asked the Ford dealer how to tighten them down - torque wrench? Nah, he said - just tighten them all the way down.
There were two engines, the Cleveland and the Windsor, and one of them had shouldered pushrod nuts, the other required more finesse and torquing. Guess which motor I had? After I went home and did what they told me, I put it all together and turned it over - THUNK! I took them out and went back - they felt really bad and of course gave me new rods.
I learned then to get good manuals for this type of work - enjoy your great car!
Scott
It was funny - one of the first things I did when I tried to rebuild the top-end was get new pushrods. I asked the Ford dealer how to tighten them down - torque wrench? Nah, he said - just tighten them all the way down.
There were two engines, the Cleveland and the Windsor, and one of them had shouldered pushrod nuts, the other required more finesse and torquing. Guess which motor I had? After I went home and did what they told me, I put it all together and turned it over - THUNK! I took them out and went back - they felt really bad and of course gave me new rods.
I learned then to get good manuals for this type of work - enjoy your great car!
Scott
Overfill by a quart when breaking in a cam on one of those.
These might also be great choices assuming your seals are in good shape...
Mobil 1 0W-40
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40
Mobil 1 0W-40
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40
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