1967- 327 Chevy bolting to 91 trans???

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Jan 21, 2014
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My friend is trying to buy an alleged 1967 327 engine for his 91 k1500 4x4 chassis

He thinks the bolt patterns are different on the bell housing. He believes 72 is the magic year but he doesn't know for sure.

Can anyone shed light on this for me.
 
The transmission would be a 700R4/4L60.

The trans will bolt up.....Just need the correct Flexplate which would be the "large" 168 tooth version for a 1955-1985 2 Piece main seal internal balance small block.

The TBI intake manifold won't fit without hogging the 4 center bolt holes out as '86 & up cylinder heads had a shallower bolt angle for the 4 center bolts....Then you end up with poor clamping force.

A '67 small block would have Cannister type oil filter or a poorly made adaptor to run a Ford spin on.
 
1967 327 chevy heads won't have bolt holes at front of cylinder heads for accessories
This….why attempt to cobble together brackets when the later era (1991) engines are plentiful? You know what they say about opinions…..here’s mine. Sale the 327 to someone restoring a 1967 Chevy and use the proceeds to buy a reman 350. Done.
 
I bet he still wants to run the carb, so he'll need a fuel pressure regulator/ reducer to bring it down to a few PSI.

If he does that, he'll want the right kickdown lever, as the 700R4 will shred itself if you get it even a little off.
 
How bad is the 350? That would be the desirable 4 bolt main block, a set of dart aftermarket TBI heads & a mild marine style cam would wake that engine up (along with less restrictive exhaust & a mild tune). The 4L60/700R4 isn’t going to like big power anyway, unless it’s built to handle it.
 
This truck was already converted to a carburetor system. He has the five-speed gearbox of that year, which I believe started in that year, or so he claims.

The last engine he put in it blew up and he saw this one on the internet near us. so he's contemplating getting it. But he didn't know if the block had a different hole pattern.
 
This….why attempt to cobble together brackets when the later era (1991) engines are plentiful? You know what they say about opinions…..here’s mine. Sale the 327 to someone restoring a 1967 Chevy and use the proceeds to buy a reman 350. Done.

X10 Agree with this.

Some people possess a real nostalgia for the old 327's for no real "modern" reason. You will overpay for a 327, it's probably been rebuilt a couple times already, bores already .060 over, crank/rod journals .020 - .030 under already. If the heads are from the era they will lack accessory holes. Double humps are over-rated unless you're putting together an original car.

I would suggest start with a roller cam block, you get a one-piece rear main, throw on some dirt cheap vortec heads, throw in a decent cam, not too big especially if the idea is to leave it tbi and you will have lots better power across the board, it will last longer, it will have less oil leaks, etc.

If the idea is to buy a 327 because you can "rev it to the moon" you can do the same with a 350. It really comes down to valve springs, good rods, good balance, and heads that will breath. I shift my Camaro at 6800 Rpm and it asks for more.
 
Post the casting numbers. It might be a valuable 327. Are there a string of small numbers on the pad in front of the block?
1734358870190.webp
 
I'm sorry, I'm stupid. it's the ALUMINUM 5 SPEED trans.
Actually have a minor bit of experience, then-my brother’s ‘84 CJ-5 has a ‘67 283 bored to 302 specs, running an adapter plate to mate up with the (beefed up) original Jeep/AMC manual. He’s running a variable vanturi carb on a single plane intake, pretty sure he has a custom clutch kit with a GM flywheel & AMC style clutch disk. Since he has an aftermarket fiberglass body, he has been working on converting the clutch linkage to a master/slave cylinder setup. Not sure what heads are on it, but Dart ones wouldn’t surprise me (since he has several sets for his dirt track car).
 
I'd carefully look at how the crank accepts the throwout bearing, clutch, and flywheel of the newer trans.
 
X10 Agree with this.

Some people possess a real nostalgia for the old 327's for no real "modern" reason. You will overpay for a 327, it's probably been rebuilt a couple times already, bores already .060 over, crank/rod journals .020 - .030 under already. If the heads are from the era they will lack accessory holes. Double humps are over-rated unless you're putting together an original car.

I would suggest start with a roller cam block, you get a one-piece rear main, throw on some dirt cheap vortec heads, throw in a decent cam, not too big especially if the idea is to leave it tbi and you will have lots better power across the board, it will last longer, it will have less oil leaks, etc.

If the idea is to buy a 327 because you can "rev it to the moon" you can do the same with a 350. It really comes down to valve springs, good rods, good balance, and heads that will breath. I shift my Camaro at 6800 Rpm and it asks for more.
Put a 283 crank in a 327 if you want to rev it. ;)
 
Put a 283 crank in a 327 if you want to rev it. ;)
Or you could find yourself an l99 4.3 liter crankshaft with the correct size journals ;);)

Or these days summit can hook you up with pretty much anything you can think of brand new.
 
This truck was already converted to a carburetor system. He has the five-speed gearbox of that year, which I believe started in that year, or so he claims.

The last engine he put in it blew up and he saw this one on the internet near us. so he's contemplating getting it. But he didn't know if the block had a different hole pattern.

HM-290/5LM60 originally engineered by Getrag....Would later become the NV3500 that most are familiar with, I believe the 5LM60 did come out in '91? Probably where the confusion is.

You would need a neutral balance flywheel for a pre-'86 engine.
 
This truck is off roaded a lot, almost daily. He goes out in the desert when it's 120*f outside. We're planning on finding a marine motor and giving it a basic freshen up.
 
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