1952 buick straight 8 help

[Volvohead]

I "might" consider a 15w-40 in this engine. But only if it were worn to the point of needing it, not because of any perceived need for ZDDP. The 40 Series engines in the Special were relatively low-compression (I think the OP's is 7.6), and didn't present the valve train loads of more modern engines.

Just about ANY current PCMO will provide far superior lubrication than any API-SB 1952 era oil ever could, and I don't care what's in the latter.

A seven quart crankcase is good stuff on the 263 eight. But I would still lean to an HDEO because of the carb. And I'd steer clear of any synthetics.

FWIW, my father replaced the '52 Special with a '64 LeSabre V6. That one was still tooling along with its third owner almost to 1980, when we lost track of the owner.

 

[901Memphis]

The engine specified a 20 grade for anything above 32F, so you could run a 5w20 or 5w30 if you wanted. QS Defy 5w30 should hit the spot.

If you want to run a 20 grade, PYB 5w20 had an amazing VOA from PQIA.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
Gas?0%ethanol (add 1%ethanol)(ethanol is good for engine in 1% .above 2% mechanic doesnt like

Even accepting that at face value, do you realize how hard that would be to accomplish in practice?

 

[Volvohead]

Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The engine specified a 20 grade for anything above 32F, so you could run a 5w20 or 5w30 if you wanted. QS Defy 5w30 should hit the spot.

If you want to run a 20 grade, PYB 5w20 had an amazing VOA from PQIA.



Don't ever run a 5w anything in one of these old Fireballs, especially not one 62 years old. A 20w from 1952 is not the same as today's 5w-20s.

Those weights are only suitable in extreme cold temps in this engine, and only if close to new on clearances.

 

[Boss302fan]

I would probably use Rotella 10W30 if you have no visible leaks... Then, I would go with a 10W40 or 15W40. These oils always have worked well for me in all my classics.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Don't ever run a 5w anything in one of these old Fireballs, especially not one 62 years old. A 20w from 1952 is not the same as today's 5w-20s.

Well, one exception might be Red Line, with its HTHS.

 

[Volvohead]

Originally Posted By: Garak
Well, one exception might be Red Line, with its HTHS.

Actually, I think RL might even be worse in this application.

It's a dilution issue with these ancient eights. This engine burns relatively cold, rich and dirty.

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Originally Posted By: Garak
Well, one exception might be Red Line, with its HTHS.

Actually, I think RL might even be worse in this application.

It's a dilution issue with these ancient eights. This engine burns relatively cold, rich and dirty.


I tend to agree.........I thing that any synthetic might make this old engine imitate a Limey motor, with external oiling, if synthetic with a 5 in front was used. Lots of cork and rope sealing things up. Synthetic seal conditioner does not work on those sorts of seals.


Either 10-30 or 15-40 HDEO would be where I would start.

 

[dave1251]

Which HDEO's do not use esters as seal conditioners?

Also if fuel dilution is a issue. Esters used by Redline are preferred by many due its higher HT/HS and its ability resist shear.

 

[Volvohead]

I know that RL has changed hands a couple of times since, but back when I was heavily using it, RL did not hold up as well as some others in adverse chemical environments. RL's a terrific high temperature oil, which is why I still love it for high intensity turbos and tracking. But this old Buick is none of that. That was the basis for my comment, not the seals.

Although, this old engine's seal setup is not particularly synthetic oil friendly, and if it weeps now, it may wind up leaking like a pig on any full syn.

Most folks running these vintages run conventional PCMO or HDEO 10w-30s with great results, so we are not really addressing anything new here.

The biggest problem with these old guys is coping with all the unburnt fuel and combustion gases flooding the crankcase. If I recall, the lower powered '52s may have still been based on the first pre-war engine redesign. Sturdy, but crude (by today's standards).

I sure hope the OP might post a pix or two of the car.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Volvohead

It's a dilution issue with these ancient eights. This engine burns relatively cold, rich and dirty.

I don't doubt that, but at least the Red Line would be of an appropriate HTHS. Realistically speaking, it would also be way too expensive for the application.

Also, as dave1251 indicates, good luck at finding an HDEO without esters as seal conditioners. If it were me, and I've run some pretty old legacy farm equipment, a 10w-30 ILSAC or HDEO would be fine. Finding an appropriate 20, as in an SAE 20 or 20w-20 isn't realistic. And the thing isn't going to need a 50 grade or race levels of ZDDP.

 

[Aungst52]

Well oil change coming tomorrow..I just did a coolant flush and holy [censored], it was like coffee at times. Glad I did that... took about 3 full flushes to get it all...

I ended up with Baldwin filter and 10w/30

 

[zrxkawboy]

Originally Posted By: Aungst52

I ended up with Baldwin filter and 10w/30


That will serve you well.