Just got a '19 Tiguan S 4-motion, few frills. 6 year bumper to bumper warranty and reasonable price meant it was the choice. I like the automatic obstacle avoidance braking feature option. Only option mine has. Plain vanilla inside too. Simple controls for the HVAC. 2.0L turbo, low horsepower at 184 hp. Got to be due to the early intake valve closing Budack cycle they run in this EA888 Gen3B DI DGUA iron block, Al head engine. https:/
https:/ www.greencarcongress.com/ 2017/ 05/ 20170523-tiguan.html /
Not a hot rod this one.
Aisin 8-speed conventional automatic works well. They put that thing in about every current Volvo, and many BMWs, Minis, Cadillacs, Toyotas, etc., wow it gets around. AWF8F35 model. No fluid changes they say. I'll probably drop the pan at 10,000 miles, not sure if I should bother yet, just to get out break-in metal dust. If they have a magnet in there then I could leave it alone.
MQB platform is nice to drive. Body doesn't have the bizarre Toyota RAV4 or GMC Terrain styling that makes you cringe. German stylists are more boring, inoffensive. This one blends in. Undercover cops should drive this, like the silver one I got. If it weren't for the long warranty and lower price of this Tiguan (Tiger+Iguana name, not kidding), I might have gotten the sweet CX-5 instead though.
Odd drain plug. Kind of a reusable, yet expendable, plastic o-ring screw-on thing. (Goes with the increasingly more common plastic sump.) I used a penny gripped in large pliers to open & close it, although a large screw driver will also dig into it, while possibly damaging the inside of it due to low torque leverage.
No skid plate or aero cover under the engine. There are mount holes for it though. I'm thinking about getting a hard plastic sheet and mounting one for better aero and protection.
Cartridge oil filter is easy to get to and change on top of the engine. Mann cartridges are the OE ones.
I pulled out the factory oil at 500 miles already and put in some non-spec SNdexos Pennzoil Platinum 0w-20 I had leftover, for a few thousand miles for now, until I can put in the spec VW 508 0w-20 that ECS Tuning sent me to start VW's 10,000 mile oil change intervals for the long run. I assume there were metal particles from break-in. I'd like to know what VW does for cylinder wall surface finishing (and maybe cam lobes). Reading about it, looks like multi-step "plateau honing" might be what they use. Break-in should be quick with that.
Owner's Manual says there is increased friction during break-in, and oil consumption could be high for a while.
Its the first Owner's Manual I've seen that actually says you can go a little bit over the cross-hatched area on the dipstick, and they give you some idea of just how much over you can safely go. Most don't get that detailed.
I don't think they use those popular wireless tire pressure sensors attached to the tire valves. Don't have to mess with that. They use wheel rotation differences to detect a tire losing too much air. There is a calibration on the dashboard display to activate once you get all the tires to the rather high-ish 41 psi on the 215/65-17 tires placard spec. Re-do that easy calibration once in a while.
Is the European (Germany, UK, etc.) Tiguan 2.0L the same as the N. American one? Mobil oil's website in Europe says you use VW 508 0w-20 for 10,000 mile intervals, and thicker VW-spec oils if you go 5,000 miles between oil changes, a choice of length & viscosity. The American Owner's Manual doesn't mention anything but strictly VW 508, and they even give dire warnings about using the thick stuff in the states. The power level (184 hp) of the 2.0L turbo engine here is the same as one they sell in Europe, so I guess this is the same identical engine. www.greencarcongress.com/ 2017/ 06/ 20170627-tiguan.html