‘19 cx5 skyactive 2.5L with cylinder deactivation - ideal oil?

[Stickygreen]

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is this a problem just with the CX-5 or does it include the CX-9?


Its only on non-turbo 2.5L engines from 2018 and up (correct me if wrong). The turbo 2.5's do not have cylinder deactivation, which I think is the only engine option on cx-9's

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by Stickygreen
Quote
The engine was designed for 0w20 from the beginning so run it with no worries.

I had not heard of this rocker arm situation



Mazda CD and rocker arms




I've seen that thread. The reality is that the interwebs inflate issues way beyond what they really are.

Any major brand of 0w20 will run fine in this engine. The main point I would suggest is to keep you oci at 5000 miles or 7500 if you mostly drive on highways.

 

[Stickygreen]

Agree that issues are often blown out of proportion online, but it's still in the back of my mind that such a thing could happen.

After looking further into the Zepro 0w20, it looks like the noack is pretty high at 14%...isn't that conducive to deposits in a direct-injected engine? Or am I mistaken...

Is there a mainstream, high moly, low noack 0w20 out there? How does QSUD compare? Thanks all

 

[PimTac]

Originally Posted by Stickygreen
Agree that issues are often blown out of proportion online, but it's still in the back of my mind that such a thing could happen.

After looking further into the Zepro 0w20, it looks like the noack is pretty high at 14%...isn't that conducive to deposits in a direct-injected engine? Or am I mistaken...

Is there a mainstream, high moly, low noack 0w20 out there? How does QSUD compare? Thanks all




I like to look at things at a whole and not just one factor point. All oils have moly in them now in varying amounts and forms. As an example, just because one oil has 500ppm and another only 80ppm doesn't tell the whole story. Moly comes in different forms. The tri nuclear moly takes less to achieve the effect needed. There are also organic friction modifiers which do not show on a consumer analysis.

Each oil is blended to the spec desired as well as the price point. In reality most oils are very close in performance these days. If you choose a SN+ d1G2 oil you really cannot go wrong.

 

[avi1777]

have the 17 2.5 non turbo cx5 and castrol stop start works very well,so far did 2500k miles with this oil but the car is way smoother and quieter than the mc they put in the dealership and zero oil consumption as well.heard from several people that the skyactiv engines likes castrol for some reason.in my case its true but then again i only have tried the mc and castrol,im sure it will work just as good with any other full syn top brands.

 

[burla]

Sticky Green with all due respect, many of the posters on this forum and even this thread that never deviate from a narrative to use the dealer spec oil yada yada no matter what issue is facing the application. The fact is, you like myself have an application that the dealer specs may not be the best choice. Dealer specs oils with many goals, one of the main goals would be fuel effiecency. And increasingly oil formulations are incredibly less stout then years past due to di turbos and low saps.

Now, they are lumping everyone into the low additive low viscosity boat, and often are ignoring issues like your rocker arm issue until it's too late. The fact you want an oil with high moly is perfect, you are heading in the right direction with that choice. See how the SUV idles, is it a rattle trap at idle? If so maybe consider a 5w30 like I did in my wife's rav 4, it went from a rattle trap too smooth as butter with that simple move and 30 weights are still thin oils. In fact look at the high moly 5w30's I bet there would be some on the thin side cSt in the 10's. Then you are opting for just a small jump over factory spec but giving yourself a bit more film strength. They are putting everyone is the same boat these days, but if you don't have a low saps diesel or a di turbo with lspi concerns, and you have a known issue, and you don't live in the snow/ixe belt, there is no reason not to do a reasonable increase in viscosity for a little more protection, or even move to an oil with more additives for protection. if you did opt for a moly booster, lubegard biotech is the one to use, it is oil soluble moly and not powdered moly in suspension. But I think you can find some high moly oils, qsud, the newer rotella gas and truck, shaeffers, Amsoil SS, and of course redline are all high moly.

 

[PWMDMD]

I had a 2014 Mazda3 with this the 2.5L that I absolutely beat the daylights out of it for years and it was a very robust engine all they way until 60K. And by beat the daylights out if I mean drive it at redline for 60+ miles on the highway just to see what would happen. The answer was nothing. Or I'd drive it in the absolute highest gear possible at the lowest speed just above where it would automatically downshift with the pedal to the floor. What happened? Nothing. I beat the thing just about everyday because it was a fun car to drive. Gave the car away to my nephew who has driven it to 100K miles in just about 14 months and it sounds and drives like new with no oil consumption. All I can say is pre-cylinder deactivation this was a VERY robust engine. Oil and filter was changed every 7500 miles with whatever 0W-20 I had available.

 

[SteveG4]

Originally Posted by AZjeff
The CX-5 is a nice CUV, kind of a shame Mazda went the deactivation route and has to learn what works. In the GM world good syn oil on conservative OCIs and fingers crossed for the right parts mix and drive on is all one can do. Hopefully Mazda figures it out faster. Good luck.

For oil, Mazda, TGMO, QSUD all best choices.

Roger that concerning conservative OCI's on newer GM DI or DI and cylinder deactivation engines. OCI interval is less than 4K miles with QSUD here. It's the best thing to do to ensure modest life with few or fewer than normal problems.

If I was driving a Ford ecoboost, I might extend the OCI to 5K miles. They seem to have got those engines right...

 

[Stickygreen]

Appreciate the input all...fully expect this cx-5 to be quite reliable for the next 5 yrs/150k plus miles, but want to use the best oil I can for this application without breaking the bank with 6-7 oil changes per year. So here's what I've gathered so far:

-pretty much any dexos 1 gen 2 oil should suffice

-QSUD 0w20 is one of the higher moly oils and should be fine for 5k intervals

-Mazda/Idemitsu zepro 0w20 with moly is one of the better oils available for this application

-Rotella gas truck 0w20 also has a fair amount of moly? Haven't read anything about this oil until now


I definitely will consider going up to a thin 30wt oil (like M1 0w30 afe) after the powertrain warranty expires if I feel it's warranted, but until then will be having oil changed at the dealer and want to stick with 0w20 for warranty purposes. They only charge about $20 plus about $10 for the filter if I bring my own oil, so why not?

The one question I haven't seen an answer for is which of the OTC 0w20 synthetics is known to be more shear stable? I really don't mind staying with the 0w20 as long as it stays a 0w20

 

[burla]

Images didnt come through, like 170ppm moly 0w20, 5w20, or 5w30 rotella gas and truck. The voa's are on this board.

wouldn't a 5w20 be shear stable? Most are.

rotella 0w20 here is your 0w20 rotella, good luck bud.

They sell that rotella everywhere, even places you can't get most oils like the tractor store and places like that.

walmart and amazon do the 21 bucks for 5 qrt thing full syn, not bad. Not impressive tbn for a long interval, but easily will get your 5k miles interval.

 

[RayCJ]

Originally Posted by Stickygreen
Appreciate the input all...fully expect this cx-5 to be quite reliable for the next 5 yrs/150k plus miles, but want to use the best oil I can for this application without breaking the bank with 6-7 oil changes per year. So here's what I've gathered so far:

-pretty much any dexos 1 gen 2 oil should suffice

-QSUD 0w20 is one of the higher moly oils and should be fine for 5k intervals

-Mazda/Idemitsu zepro 0w20 with moly is one of the better oils available for this application

-Rotella gas truck 0w20 also has a fair amount of moly? Haven't read anything about this oil until now


I definitely will consider going up to a thin 30wt oil (like M1 0w30 afe) after the powertrain warranty expires if I feel it's warranted, but until then will be having oil changed at the dealer and want to stick with 0w20 for warranty purposes. They only charge about $20 plus about $10 for the filter if I bring my own oil, so why not?

The one question I haven't seen an answer for is which of the OTC 0w20 synthetics is known to be more shear stable? I really don't mind staying with the 0w20 as long as it stays a 0w20

With the high miles you drive, I don't think there will be a problem maintaining viscosity. Fuel dilution is your enemy in that regard. Short trips and cold engines is what induces fuel dilution.

Here's the most recent round-up of 0w-20 oil from PQIA: http://pqiadata.org/SAE0W20SamplesTest2017.html

In your case, after your 3rd oil change, send a sample for analysis and see how things look. Your quest for knowledge and desire to take care of the engine is the perfect reason to do a Used Oil Analysis (UOA). For reference on a 2018 2.5L skyactive, here's my first UOA that still shows a lot of break-in substances: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ilesyn-5w-20-5500-miles-2007-mazda6-2-3l


Ray

 

[PimTac]

If you decide on the Idemitsu oil make sure to use the Zepro version. There are two versions of their 0w20 oils.

I am running the Havoline Pro DS by Chevron. At $19.97 for a 6 quart box it's a great deal and a great oil. I've also used Valvoline. My oci is every 5000 miles.

The main thing is to change the oil regularly. With modern engines and their complications, it's the owners who get lax on maintenance that experience trouble.

 

[burla]

just for the info, most of those high moly oils are not tn moly, but di nuclear, which is "reported" to be less effective. I'm not sure of any 150+ high moly oils that are tn moly, maybe someone else does? So most of those 60-80ppm moly oils will be TN moly. But I still use higher moly oils in my cars and trucks. I doubt if they will tell you or not, but I'd bet the moly in rotella gas and truck is moDTC and not tri nuclear, total guess but that is what I'd guess. Just like I bet PYB is the same and also has very high moly. There is some paper out there that 75ppm tnmoly = 200ppm modtc, research that a bit. Just in the spirit of handing fair and balanced info/

 

[Hoot_r]

Originally Posted by Stickygreen
Quote
The winter oil change is coming up in Nov. on 17' Rogue Sport. I've been debating oil choices. One oil that has really peaked my curiosity is Castrol GTX Magnetic 0w-20. From what I've read, it's a mix of Group 3 and some ester (group 5) w/excellent specs. (Personally chose this over the EDGE, Extended, etc. in the Castrol lineup.) HTHS 2.75 / Noack 11.8 / Viscosity Index 170 and Pour Point -51 according to Castrol PDS. $19.84 @ Walmart com. 5QT. Jug. May blend a qt. of their excellent 0w-40 for the summer months OC. (3:1) We will see how she runs on this Castrol shortly (second yr. into ownership and three OC's w/Eneos oil


Is GTX magnatec a full synthetic oil, or a blend?

In the past, this oil was a blend, however, current formulations claim to be full synthetic. Read the label to make sure you're getting the newer full syn version versus one of the older blend jugs that might still be out there on store shelves.

 

[Stickygreen]

Now am really torn...that PQIA report appears to favor M1 afe as the superior oil. Castrol magnatec seems like a great option with some esters. QSUD looks to be the best value with higher moly. And Zepro 0w20 with moly is probably the preferred oil if I can find it for less than the current $40/5qts on Amazon.

🤷ðŸ½â€â™‚ï¸

 

[GumbyJarvis]

Originally Posted by Stickygreen
Now am really torn...that PQIA report appears to favor M1 afe as the superior oil. Castrol magnatec seems like a great option with some esters. QSUD looks to be the best value with higher moly. And Zepro 0w20 with moly is probably the preferred oil if I can find it for less than the current $40/5qts on Amazon.

🤷ðŸ½â€â™‚ï¸


It's all up to you to pick, you cant really go wrong with any of those oils. Pick something high quality and in spec as per the OM and go with it. M1 AFE, Magnatec, QSUD, Zepro, Eneos, theres plenty of good options out there, some are more affordable, some offer different base stocks or additive pack, but theyll all treat the engine good.

 

[avi1777]

the truth be told thos Japanese cars are so reliable u can put basically anything in then and they will live forever engine wise

 

[RayCJ]

Originally Posted by avi1777
the truth be told thos Japanese cars are so reliable u can put basically anything in then and they will live forever engine wise

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^ What he said ^^^^

With very few exceptions, the Mazda Skyactive engines are performing very well. As things currently look, the Skyactive engine platform could become a hallmark like some of the premier 4cyl engines from Honda and Toyota. The core platforms were bulletproof... Change the oil regularly, don't do stupid things -and the engine will outlast the rest of the vehicle.

Cylinder deactivation in the Mazda has only been in North America for a year. You can bet money they tested this in other Countries before releasing it here. Other than the link you provided, I could not find any other public reports about this issue. If there really is a rocker arm issue, it could be due to a defective part or firmware glitch. If it is oil related, there is no information available on the type or condition of the oil so, just use the oil that meets spec and floats your boat.


EDIT: Just to be clear, Mazda is doing a firmware update for some vehicles with cylinder deactivation. There was a glitch that caused the firmware to falsely detect a misfire condition that was causing the engine to go into "limp home" mode. No mechanical damage is associated with that firmware fix.

Ray

 

[bigdawg74]

Originally Posted by PimTac

I am running the Havoline Pro DS by Chevron. At $19.97 for a 6 quart box it's a great deal and a great oil. I've also used Valvoline. My oci is every 5000 miles.



PimTac, how does your '17 like that Havoline? I'm using M1 AFE 0w-20 in my '16, but going with annual OCI at about 7300 miles.

 

[Stickygreen]

Thanks all...

And regarding the firmware fix, I believe the limp mode/detected misfire can be due to a rocker arm falling off due to low oil pressure. So I'm not sure if the firmware also addresses the rocker arm issue but it seems Mazda is claiming it does.