‘16 CX-5 Front End Popping

[RamFan]

Alright folks, I’m truly perplexed on this one.

March 2025 I replaced lower control arms (Mazda) and outer tie rods (555) due to some front end noise and visually degrading bushings.

About three weeks ago my wife noticed some noise starting from the front end. Literally overnight, parked it without any inclination of an issue and the next morning when leaving the driveway the noise was there.

I dug in and visually inspected everything, everything looked fine. I did some troubleshooting and everything checked out. But she was right, on acceleration or deceleration, a popping was coming from the front end. Only during throttle inputs or braking was there noise. When cruising, no noise. Rough terrain, no noise. Clocked the wheel in both directions, no noise.

Spotted that the engine mount had some cracking in the rubber and the engine did have more play while changing gears than I know it should, so maybe (just maybe) it’s the mounts causing some pops as the engine moves around a bit during those conditions. Swapped out the engine and transmission mount (Mazda) and while the play definitely decreased, the noise is still there. This was a week ago.

Today I tore into it again. I cannot recreate the popping with the car stationary, only while driving and once again only while throttle input or braking. The only thing that visually caught my eye is that the sway bar bushings are showing the slightest bit of degradation and the driver side end link was making a tiny bit of noise when turning the wheel while off the ground. Decided to swap out what I could with local parts since I was already in there and could unfortunately only source the end links (Drive Works, I know…) but bushings weren’t available. Swapped out the links and got the bushings with some silicone spray. Now I knew this wasn’t the source of the noise, but why not rule it out? Yup, popping is still there.

What would y’all try to trouble shoot next?

 

[Number_35]

Strut mounts?

 

[Nukeman7]

I'd focus on checking out the upper strut mounts, especially if the noise is coming from one side. They often fail where the damaged part is not visible until the strut is fully disassembled. If you find a suspect upper strut mount, try lubricating it liberally with silicone spray to see if the noise temporarily subsides.

 

[RamFan]

Strut mounts got checked today and I couldn’t find anything that seemed suspect. Noise is coming from what seems to be dead center. I’m kind of thinking inner CV joints but that would be such a seldom found failure.

I’m going to take apart the cowel tomorrow and check those bolts, there’s a TSB for those coming loose creating popping sounds while driving. Seems odd that would be it, but needs to be ruled out.

 

[HemiBenny]

When you dug in to look at everything, did you check to see if everything bolted together 9 months ago was still tight?

Is the noise a “Popping”, as in several pops in succession, or a single “Pop” when accelerating or braking?

Strut mount problems should be making noise in more situations than you’re describing.

 

[f355spider]

Probably need a set of "chassis ears" to find this...either a wired or wireless set. That can save you from the dart board method of parts replacement.

 

[RamFan]

When you dug in to look at everything, did you check to see if everything bolted together 9 months ago was still tight?

Is the noise a “Popping”, as in several pops in succession, or a single “Pop” when accelerating or braking?

Strut mount problems should be making noise in more situations than you’re describing.

Yes, that was the first thing I checked. The most likely source was a bolt baking out, but none were found.

It’s several pops in succession, no difference if accelerating on a straight or in a turn. Same for braking. It seems to be only triggered by power delivery or power reduction.

 

[michaelluscher]

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10129564-9999.pdf

If it's got a strut brace, make sure it's fasteners are torqued to spec
And make sure the air box is clipped in properly

 

[grasscutter]

Were the lower control arm mounting bolts tightened at ride hight?

 

[The Critic]

Were the lower control arm mounting bolts tightened at ride hight?

Maybe loosen and retighten lower control arm fasteners with the suspension loaded.

 

[RamFan]

Were the lower control arm mounting bolts tightened at ride hight?

Maybe loosen and retighten lower control arm fasteners with the suspension loaded.

I did, but perhaps not well enough? When replacing the control arms, once the new arms were in place I threaded the bolts in partially to hold them. Using a jack I then raised them a bit and finished tightening them down.

To loosen and tighten with a load is a challenge as I don’t have a lift. Would driving up on ramps and jacking the rear have the same effect?

 

[Capt W]

You don't need a lift. Snug all fasteners and put the front end on ramps (you can jack up the front and place the ramps in place). Bounce the beak a few times to settle the suspension and apply final torque.

You needn't raise the rear end. It's not so much overall ride height as it is having the vehicle's weight on the suspension before tightening.

Failure to do this is a major reason for noise, whether we're talking control arms, shocks, etc.

 

[grasscutter]

I did, but perhaps not well enough? When replacing the control arms, once the new arms were in place I threaded the bolts in partially to hold them. Using a jack I then raised them a bit and finished tightening them down.

To loosen and tighten with a load is a challenge as I don’t have a lift. Would driving up on ramps and jacking the rear have the same effect?

It's better to use ramps. That way you're better simulating the vehicle being on the ground with its weight on the tires.

 

[RamFan]

Appreciate that insight, I’ll give that a shot and see if it improves.

 

[The Critic]

I did, but perhaps not well enough? When replacing the control arms, once the new arms were in place I threaded the bolts in partially to hold them. Using a jack I then raised them a bit and finished tightening them down.

To loosen and tighten with a load is a challenge as I don’t have a lift. Would driving up on ramps and jacking the rear have the same effect?

Place front end of vehicle on jackstands. Remove tires. Using your floor jack, raise the lower control arm (at a location as close to the rotor as possible) until that corner of the vehicle is no longer supported by the jack stand.

 

[dfarr67]

Honda had a recall on the top strut nuts, replaced and torqued- no more issues for years.

 

[grasscutter]

Place front end of vehicle on jackstands. Remove tires. Using your floor jack, raise the lower control arm (at a location as close to the rotor as possible) until that corner of the vehicle is no longer supported by the jack stand.

That's better than nothing, but I don't think that method simulates the vehicle being on the ground as accurately as ramps.

The ideal method would be a 4-post lift.

 

[The Critic]

That's better than nothing, but I don't think that method simulates the vehicle being on the ground as accurately as ramps.

The ideal method would be a 4-post lift.

Agreed, but it should be pretty close since the suspension component is loaded.

 

[RedSpider]

My 2016 CX5 has been doing this since about a month after we bought it. Its absolutely coming from the drivers side. I have checked everything, four times. Ball joints, sway bar links, bushings, etc. I've been up and down this car so many times I can do it in my sleep. I'm aware of various TSB's but mine always seems to be outside the vin range or whatever to be applicable. Barely does it driving around normal roads, but on our gravel driveway, it knocks and pops and drives me bonkers. Its really not loud at all, and sometimes you really have to listen to hear it, but its there. I only seem to hear it when driving straight ahead. Its a very common problem mentioned on the various Mazda forums. The only thing I havent done is replace the shock mounts. Thats next.

I will note that my son's 2017 Mazda 3 is also doing this. I had it in the local dealer (I know the service mgr) and he replaced the driver side control arm and that did take care of a lot of noise, but back home on the gravel driveway, I noticed right away that something was still knocking around under there. Very frustrating.

I'm starting to suspect it might be the axle(s), only due to my lack of finding anything else to blame.

 

[KrisZ]

My old Mazda 3 had a similar issue and it wasn’t suspension related at all, it was the steering rack. It developed play internally and it would make clunking noises going over bumps or changing directions.