12 point versus 6 point wrenches

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Count me in on the 6 pt boxes for small jobs. With brake bleeders I worry that the height of a socket plus driver will add shear force in a direction that's detrimental.

As a certified butcher (tm) I've found a 12 point wrench will round a fastener while its open end, and two points of contact, will manage to get it loose. All b/c I'm too lazy to get up and find a 6 point.
 
Quote:
Torx, inside 12 pt and allen sockets only buy the best, there is very little room for sloppy fit and cheap steel with these, a rounded out fastener especially a recessed one can be a nightmare.
Can you recommend the best cost effective of this set?
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
Torx, inside 12 pt and allen sockets only buy the best, there is very little room for sloppy fit and cheap steel with these, a rounded out fastener especially a recessed one can be a nightmare.
Can you recommend the best cost effective of this set?


Like others said dont cheap out on these tools. If you want the cheapest set that will be serviceable for torx and E-torx , look at VIM products on amazon. This company supplies Cornwell with these , they are a good quality for the money. Allen sockets cheapest but high quality your likely looking at SK. Ive never had a problem with my SK hex sockets. Id get VIM torx and e-torx and SK allen , if your looking for lowest cost with the highest quality factor.
 
I use Hazet because they sell very short stubby bits that are single piece, they also have longer bits and i can get them at a competitive price. I have some Proto, Armstrong and some old Blackhawk inch sizes.
If i didn't have access to Hazet at affordable prices i would go with Proto. Buy the most common sizes first and the larger ones as needed.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Originally Posted By: eljefino
With brake bleeders I worry that the height of a socket plus driver will add shear force in a direction that's detrimental.



Please elaborate!


A wrench should only twist counter clockwise.

But a 6 inch wrench on top of a 2 inch long socket is transferring some force in an attempt to topple the socket over, and not just twist the bleeder. This is additional stress on the bleeder not going into rotation.
 
Going back to the OP's original question, I would say no, a good quality 12-point box end with built in Flank Drive is not anymore likely to round off a 6-point fastener than a 6-point box end. But when I say "good quality," I'm using that term lightly. What I really mean to say is if you're using a professional quality 12-point box end wrench and the 6-point fastener you're engaging gets rounded off, there's either something wrong with the fastener, or the fastener is made out of some soft material like brass.
 
My 2 cents are simple, I use 6-pt whenever possible but have 12-pts available as needed.

I have had too many bad experiences with 12-pts rounding off bolts/nuts that I had to make the switch. It may be been due to a cheap brand or [censored] hardware, either way I learned my lesson and haven't looked back yet.
 
Originally Posted By: dubie2003
I have had too many bad experiences with 12-pts rounding off bolts/nuts that I had to make the switch.


What kind of wrenches were you using ?
 
The drain plug's head on my girlfriend's car is tapered and I have yet to find anything that fits 100% snug. I am not sure what it was made this way.
21.gif


This is the only situation I prefer a 6 point socket. I just figured 6 points of contact would be better than 12. Who knows if it really matters, but the rounded plug last spring was enough for me to stick with that plan.
 
I look at it about the same with ratchets and wrenches... 12 pt is for convenience, but with risk, while 6pt is a bit more definite yet with added difficulty in some situations.

I've rounded enough bolts with 12pt stuff (actually, not many by number, but enough of a hassle for it to be embedded in my brain) to have a constant scare.

Yet, the inflexibility of 6 point stuff (somewhat overcome on ratchets at least by fine tooth designs) offers a hassle that is undesired if it can be avoided.

In general, my move has been to 1/4" ratchets from 3/8", with wrenches only used to hold nuts stationary. Maybe it's the wrong approach? Dunno. But works for most common stuff, even jobs like replacing alternators. The size, low weight and convenience helps.

If I wanted to have only one good, expensive set of stuff, I'd go six point. You could always buy 12 point stuff onesie twosie as needed (doesn't help when you're in need of it on the fly). I'd not trust all jobs to 12pt stuff, while I'd trust any job that I could finagle with a six point, yet be mad about the hassle...
 
Stanley, Harbor Freight, Proto, etc... All the 'general' brands.

I know brands with higher quality may be better but I don't want to run the risk again if I don't have to.

My Craftsman Sets (mostly USA but some China) are going strong in 6-pt.

The final straw was the 10mm nuts on my fan clutch. That caused me to use a vise grip to remove the rounded nut and then make an last minute trip to Home Depot to get a new nut so that I could put the pulley back w/o fan and run my new electrics. From that point forward, 6-pt whenever possible and 12-pt if I absolutely have to.
 
Originally Posted By: dubie2003
Stanley, Harbor Freight, Proto, etc... All the 'general' brands.


You are putting Proto in with Horror Freight and Stanley? I can guess why you rounded the nuts.
crackmeup2.gif
 
At work I used 6 point sockets are so much less likely to round off heads and quality 6 points can remove rounded off heads that 12 point sockets rounded off.. Different tools for different purposes.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: dubie2003
Stanley, Harbor Freight, Proto, etc... All the 'general' brands.


You are putting Proto in with Horror Freight and Stanley? I can guess why you rounded the nuts.
crackmeup2.gif



Proto has failed me more times then I would like to remember. The short is that the cost of Proto is the same as Craftsman and believe it or not, Craftsman tools outlast the Protos in my case.

If I know there will be a lot of use or if it is special need, I skip to SnapOn/MAC/MATCO/etc...

It may be that I got a bad batch but Proto never felt 'finished' and always gave a mediocre fit at best.
 
Originally Posted By: dubie2003
The short is that the cost of Proto is the same as Craftsman and believe it or not, Craftsman tools outlast the Protos in my case.


Ok if you say so. Even if you add a 20 and 21 to the craftsman its not even close.
I don't now what kind of Proto you ave been using but they superior to Craftsman in every way, if there was something wrong with them you should have contacted Proto they have great CS.

http://www.toolup.com/Proto-J1200F-MASD-15-Pc-Metric-Combination-ASD-Wrench-Set-12-Point

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-13-pc-metric-12-pt-full/p-00945964000P
 
Sometimes when you need a thin walled socket to fit within a recessed hole, a 12 pt may work where a 6 pt won't; otherwise I always reach for the 6 pt sockets.
 
Between 6 and 12 point sockets, I find the one that offers a more tight fit preferable.
 
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