12 hrs later, job done

[FiremarshalRob]

2006 2wd F250 diesel. 94,600 miles. Changed the front and back brakes, front shocks, steering stabilizer, both fuel filters, windshield wipers (Michelin Radius), took the beastly rotors to NAPA and had them turned, and re-packed all the bearings.
I went with the Wagner ThermoQuiets. My front brakes weren't too bad, not originals, but the rear brakes were almost down to the squealers.

The ride is improved significantly as well as the braking performance. Now I'm waiting on the shipment of my rear shocks. I went with the Monroe Reflex. Would have went with the Bilsteins, but man are they costly.

One question, does anyone use clear fingernail polish hardener instead of Threadlock? I do and have been for years. I haven't had an incident yet. 6 dollars for such a small amount of Threadlock I find ridiculous.

 

[Jimmy9190]

Sounds like a good job. And good choice on the Reflex. I have them on my Dodge pickup and they have done a great job and been the best shock for the price.

I have used nail polish on smaller nuts and bolts, yes. It works but I prefer to use Loctite.

Good job on the truck.

 

[willix]

Why would you need treadlocker on any of the fasteners mentioned? I am unaware of of the fingernail polish substitute tread locker. I'm curious what fasteners got the nailpolish treatment.

 

[daves87rs]

Good to hear!

 

[eljefino]

I use regular nail polish on little tiny screws like those in cameras. But I feel funny buying it.

Fortunately if you ask a lady friend for a leftover bottle they'll usually have one in a color they no longer find fashionable.

 

[FiremarshalRob]

Since I removed the rotors to have them turned, the entire caliper housing had to be removed. It was 2, massively torqued 13/16 bolts holding them on. There was blue threadlock on the threads. I imagine it was somewhere near 200 ft lbs on those bolts, if not more. I used an ample amount of clear fingernail polish on them. I don't intend on having to remove them again.

When I got to the rear, I just removed the calipers and the two 12 mm bolts had blue threadlock on them also, so I put a dab of clear fingernail polish on them also.

Was that un-necessary?

RL

 

[mechtech2]

Locktite is designed to cure/harden in an anaerobic state.
That is why there is so much air in the bottle when you buy it - it prevents curing.
Nail polish is ridiculous to use for a high strength bolt on a car. Just because someone did it and the car still worked shows nothing. And nail polish may remain liquid just like in the bottle when on the air deprived threads for a long time. And it won't take heat well.

 

[SteveSRT8]

anyone who believes nail polish does the same thing as thread locking compounds is dangerously mistaken!

 

[Gary Allan]

There was life before thread lock and teflon tape and such. Fasteners stayed in place. They may have seized in place, but didn't back out.

This can be filed under the sensible actions such as brake fluid exchanges and other such 'preferred' techniques and procedures.

 

[FiremarshalRob]

I'm kinda bothered by the fact that someone, a mechanic, told me that is was ok to use the stuff.

Oh well, I've used it more than once and never had a bolt back out. Considering I put over 200 ft/lbs torque on the bolt, I don't think I'll have a problem. I'll recheck them in a month.

The interesting, and kind scary thing about putting the rotors and bearings back on is the small amount of torque it takes to properly preload the bearings and seat the rotor. I figured it would take a massive amount of torque until (when I was removing them) I removed the spindle nut with my fingers after removing the cotter pin and this little "keeper" that sits on top of the spindle nut. Interesting that it takes that little torque to hold a 60 lb rotor in place.

 

[levi]

Cotter pin prevents the nut from backing off. You don't want a ton of torque on the wheel bearings or they will deform, heat up, wear out prematurely.

 

[andyd]

If a caliper carrier bolt had blue loctite on it, I would replace it with more. Especiallly if Ford was doing it. It prolly needs it. My old Stihl chainsaw had blue loctite on its fastenings. I took it apart once, and was plagued with loose screws for awhile. In yrs gone by, I have boogered up the the threads sticking out past the nut with a punch. Just enough deformity to hold the nut. My BMW uses NyLok nuts on the front suspension. They are a PITA on ball joints. But they dont loosen.

 

[FiremarshalRob]

I will check them in about a month. Its hard to imagine a bolt torqued with 200ft/lbs and some nail hardener backing out!

 

[mechanicx]

The bolts are not going to come loose even without threadlocker. The torque spec is set to assure that they won't come loose. Blue threadlocker is not that strong, I think it is rated at like 12 ft-lbs or so, and I'm kind of surprised they didn't use red. Maybe the blue is better for something that gets disassembled frequently. But really all the the threadlocker is for, if in case the bolt wasn't properly tighten enough, the bolt won't vibrate and turn completely out.

 

[willix]

I did'nt consider the caliper racks and those bolts may benifit from treadlocker. Nail polish may prevent rusty threads. If TQ'ed correctly they aren't coming out without giving you warning way in advance. I use anti-seize on those bolts because I want them to come out next time.

 

[wander2039]

If it makes you feel any better I worked 8 hours and only had to replace the crank and cam seals on the festiva. You got a heck alot more acomplished than I!

 

[FiremarshalRob]

The ride is so improved its ridiculous. No more front end banging around on the coil springs, and the braking is like new. Replacing the rear brakes really did the job. I think the calipers were near fully extended and it was like using only the front brakes.

I am tickled pink at how the ride has changed and now I've got the rear shocks on order and will replace them next week when they come in!!!

 

[mechtech2]

Firemarshall - You did a nice job, and saved big $ by doing it yourself.

Tapered roller bearings need room to work right. And when they heat up things change - they can get really hot from the incidental heat from the brakes.
I torque them down while spinning them to seat them, then back off 1/2 flat to a flat [nut flat], then insert the cotter pin.

 

[holla]

12 hrs, 8 hrs. Who cares. What's the rush. If you don't enjoy doing it pay someone to do it for you. Spent all last weekend doing cam/crank seals, water pump, valve clearance, etc. Didn't clock in or out so I cant tell you the number of hours.

 

[Jimmy9190]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Firemarshall - You did a nice job, and saved big $ by doing it yourself.


+1 to that. I will not pay someone to do something I can do just as well myself, and that goes for my truck, car, house or anything else that needs to be fixed. I spent a long time last weekend replacing the ball joints on my truck, it cost $106.00 for both ball joints and about $75.00 for other parts and tools I needed. But if I had paid a shop to do it, I was looking at about $350 to $400 per side.

I fixed my own truck, I know I fixed it right and I saved a lot of money doing it myself. I get a ton of personal satisfaction and pride from that. Plus it's just plain fun and very satisfying to spend time in my garage working on my own vehicle and I enjoy the sense of pride of ownership.

You put the same point very well, Mechtech. I think that's why we are all here. If my computer breaks down or I need a root canal done, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.