11,889 mile NAPA GOLD(pic)

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Well i told demarpaint i would post up my next OC to let him know i'm finally am going to try the LM oil additive,well had some spare time today to in it went.

one thing i noticed is how much you need to VIGOROUSLY shake this stuff i dumped it in then continued to rinse it with clean oil i noticed a heavy sludge layer on bottom of the can after the initial was poured in it took 5-6 rinse and VIGOROUSLY shakes to get it mixed and poured in but in the end i got her all in.

After the OC i went on a short commute and what usually always took a 1/4 tank i now used just shy of that,so unscientific i know but noted. The oil is now a light Grey color instead of the usual gold color.

next OC i'll use just the maintenance does like has been posted about before.

good stuff for just over $4.

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and second the NG for this OC went a little farther then i wanted i usually change this AFE out at 7-9,000 but i got busy at work and it went over,oil looked good no consumption at all with this run filter looks outstanding for almost 12,000 miles,pleats are good and firm and not much contaminates in the pleating from the 3100 v6,it's is running very clean no issues for 178,000 miles, seem is still intact no issues with separating i can see with the naked eye,outstanding filters for just over $3 with the spring filter sale.

the next OC that you see above that i put in will go a minimum of 10,000 probably longer.


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Yea i thought for sure the pleats would have been wavier but not bad just minimal that you can see,nothing out of the ordinary from this run.
 
My friend does 15K on 5-30EP and his M1 filter looked like yours as well. Very clean with no grit or sludge at all.
 
Daman,
By the way I noticed all the iron flakes in the oil on your finger tip. Terrible!!
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Last edited:
Originally Posted By: StevieC
At least he won't have anemia!
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Wow so yer back. Awesome! Always enjoyed your enthusiasm for this place...I come and go sometimes only lurk. So So technically you could have been back for awhile.

Anyways I post on subject at hand. What is lubro moly supposed to do? Make the engine have more horsepower?
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
My friend does 15K on 5-30EP and his M1 filter looked like yours as well. Very clean with no grit or sludge at all.

Yea i believe it i open every single filter and no matter what mileage or oil flavor they always look as that.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Daman,
By the way I noticed all the iron flakes in the oil on your finger tip. Terrible!!
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Ha yea, i sleep just fine at night...
Originally Posted By: Camu Mahubah

What is lubro moly supposed to do? Make the engine have more horsepower?

No, it's a anti wear additive(Molbdenum)
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Daman,
By the way I noticed all the iron flakes in the oil on your finger tip. Terrible!!
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Yeah, if you smoke some wacky tobacky, and look real close, you can see an entire camshaft in there...
 
Originally Posted By: river_rat
Originally Posted By: tig1
Daman,
By the way I noticed all the iron flakes in the oil on your finger tip. Terrible!!
18.gif



Yeah, if you smoke some wacky tobacky, and look real close, you can see an entire camshaft in there...

LOL...
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Well i told demarpaint i would post up my next OC to let him know i'm finally am going to try the LM oil additive,well had some spare time today to in it went.

one thing i noticed is how much you need to VIGOROUSLY shake this stuff i dumped it in then continued to rinse it with clean oil i noticed a heavy sludge layer on bottom of the can after the initial was poured in it took 5-6 rinse and VIGOROUSLY shakes to get it mixed and poured in but in the end i got her all in.

...


VSOT is very thick too, it is very hard to pour it in the fill hole at ambient temperature below 70-80F. On the day I plan to change oil I put 1 bottle in the engine compartment, after a 10-15 minutes drive the bottle was very warm at around 120-130F, at that temperature it only took 10-15 seconds of shaking and it was very easy to pour it into the fill hole.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: daman
Well i told demarpaint i would post up my next OC to let him know i'm finally am going to try the LM oil additive,well had some spare time today to in it went.

one thing i noticed is how much you need to VIGOROUSLY shake this stuff i dumped it in then continued to rinse it with clean oil i noticed a heavy sludge layer on bottom of the can after the initial was poured in it took 5-6 rinse and VIGOROUSLY shakes to get it mixed and poured in but in the end i got her all in.

...


VSOT is very thick too, it is very hard to pour it in the fill hole at ambient temperature below 70-80F. On the day I plan to change oil I put 1 bottle in the engine compartment, after a 10-15 minutes drive the bottle was very warm at around 120-130F, at that temperature it only took 10-15 seconds of shaking and it was very easy to pour it into the fill hole.

The initial pour was good,it was on the thin side it was the bottom that had the thicker layer,i thought at the time about heating it up in some hot water but never did i'll try that next time.
 
Daman-Thanks for PM'ing me the link. I would have missed this thread! I found there was some settling of the product as well, but what was interesting to me was how many times I had to pour oil into the can shake it up to get as much LM out of the can as possible. It really coats the inside of the can well!

It is a 30 grade oil, so it is not as thick as VSOT. Heating it up in hot water might help, I might try that myself.

I think that after the initial full bottle treatment which is ~10 ounces, a 1 ounce/qt of oil dose is all I'm need after that. Then maybe once a year a full treatment.
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I have plenty of time to think that over.

Thanks for the photos, nice report. Give it about 500 miles or so to "plate" and let us know your observations then. I've now used it in 3 vehicles and a mower and am very satisfied.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I found there was some settling of the product as well, but what was interesting to me was how many times I had to pour oil into the can shake it up to get as much LM out of the can as possible. It really coats the inside of the can well!

It is a 30 grade oil, so it is not as thick as VSOT. Heating it up in hot water might help, I might try that myself.

I think that after the initial full bottle treatment which is ~10 ounces, a 1 ounce/qt of oil dose is all I'm need after that. Then maybe once a year a full treatment.
21.gif
I have plenty of time to think that over.

Thanks for the photos, nice report. Give it about 500 miles or so to "plate" and let us know your observations then. I've now used it in 3 vehicles and a mower and am very satisfied.

Yea that's probably what i'll do also the 1oz per qt from now on,i thought i had a old can because of the settling but that's just how this stuff is.

no problem on the pics here's a few shots with it mixed with the new oil you can clearly see the oil is Grey color now looks like mud in the valve cover not what i'm used to seeing, the M1 sure keeps things clean
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Daman, I like that you are camera happy... Keep up the good work!
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Originally Posted By: Camu Mahubah

Wow so yer back. Awesome! Always enjoyed your enthusiasm for this place...I come and go sometimes only lurk. So So technically you could have been back for awhile....


Yeah I'm back and only got here over a week ago... Couldn't stay away.
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
Daman, I like that you are camera happy... Keep up the good work!
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Haha no problem.
 
Might change the oil if you ever put it up for sale...some potential buyer see that gray and freak out.
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Does it not bother any of you how all the moly settles in the bottom of the can? Do you think it just might settle in the bottom of your oil pan? Keep us posted on how this stuff performs, over the long haul.
 
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