Wouldn't 10W30 synthetic be the best all - around small engine oil ? ...I can't understand why 5W30 synthetic is recommended by B&S and not even a mention of 10W30 synthetic ? ...Seems to me that the 10W30 synthetic under normal Spring - Fall mowing temps would be the better , more robust choice with less viscosity break down , need for VI's , etc. ? ...Mayb I am just splitting hairs between 5W30 synthetic vs. 10W30 synthetic - your thoughts ?
10W30 Synthetic for B&S Engine ?
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Yes you are splitting hairs!
The base stock and additives have improved since early 1990 and the 5w30 will stay in grade for the duration of the specified service life.
eddie
The base stock and additives have improved since early 1990 and the 5w30 will stay in grade for the duration of the specified service life.
eddie
I ran GC 0w30 and now Mobil 1 0w40 in every small engine summer and winter since new. No consumption on any, all are 6+ years old and see plenty of use.
Mobil 1 10w30 in my v twin briggs, doesn't use any at all.
e mail briggs
My 2005 or so Yard Machines riding mower with the 13.5hp B&S motor, specifically recommends 5w30 OR 10w30 synthetic in the manual.
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I don't see why not. I'm growing my "collection" of OPE Engines and have these:
* 6.5 Briggs flathead on a lawnmower
* 7.0 Briggs OHV on a pressure washer
* 5.0 Tecumseh Snow King on a Snowblower
* 13.0 Chonda (HF unit) on a Generator
* 22 Briggs V-twin on a lawn tractor
* 20-something 4-stroke Troy Bilt Weedwhacker that I don't care much about
My thought is to just standardize on 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic from a top name brand and call it a day. Whatever I can get on sale in a gallon or so jug. Right now I'm using 10w30 in the generator, circa 1998-2002 Mobil 1 5w30 in the mower, pressure washer, snowblower, and the factory fill in the V-twin. Not sure if I'll go HDEO or a top shelf PCMO.
* 6.5 Briggs flathead on a lawnmower
* 7.0 Briggs OHV on a pressure washer
* 5.0 Tecumseh Snow King on a Snowblower
* 13.0 Chonda (HF unit) on a Generator
* 22 Briggs V-twin on a lawn tractor
* 20-something 4-stroke Troy Bilt Weedwhacker that I don't care much about
My thought is to just standardize on 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic from a top name brand and call it a day. Whatever I can get on sale in a gallon or so jug. Right now I'm using 10w30 in the generator, circa 1998-2002 Mobil 1 5w30 in the mower, pressure washer, snowblower, and the factory fill in the V-twin. Not sure if I'll go HDEO or a top shelf PCMO.
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I dunno, I've read everything I can find on oil, and small engines, and have come to the conclusion that, you can use squirrel urine and they'll last at least two lifetimes. I mean, it seams that oil is almost a non issue in small engines, they get along well with any kind, type, brand etc. Heck, I have neighbors who are still using the original fill oil, FOUR or FIVE years later, maybe adding some when low, and maybe not!
Having said that, I'm a believer that if you want the best protection, and I'm not talking about running Redline and spending a ton of money, then something on the order of Mobil 1, in almost any flavor, (my favorite would be the High Mileage versions), Rotella T6, or Pennzoil Ultra. You can pick your viscosity, but I think 40W is as high as I would go. Other than those few restrictions, use what you like and worry not.
Having said that, I'm a believer that if you want the best protection, and I'm not talking about running Redline and spending a ton of money, then something on the order of Mobil 1, in almost any flavor, (my favorite would be the High Mileage versions), Rotella T6, or Pennzoil Ultra. You can pick your viscosity, but I think 40W is as high as I would go. Other than those few restrictions, use what you like and worry not.
I run Redline 5w30 in our Briggs & Stratton 500cc Vanguard powered GE 8kw standby generator. It has run continuously for 7 days (Irene) and 4 days (Sandy) with minimal oil consumption (above low mark on dipstick). I'm sure M1 would be fine as well I just happened to have the Redline.
Originally Posted By: bchannell
I dunno, I've read everything I can find on oil, and small engines, and have come to the conclusion that, you can use squirrel urine and they'll last at least two lifetimes. I mean, it seams that oil is almost a non issue in small engines, they get along well with any kind, type, brand etc. Heck, I have neighbors who are still using the original fill oil, FOUR or FIVE years later, maybe adding some when low, and maybe not!
Having said that, I'm a believer that if you want the best protection, and I'm not talking about running Redline and spending a ton of money, then something on the order of Mobil 1, in almost any flavor, (my favorite would be the High Mileage versions), Rotella T6, or Pennzoil Ultra. You can pick your viscosity, but I think 40W is as high as I would go. Other than those few restrictions, use what you like and worry not.
^My experience as well^
My Dad bought a new Briggs powered Murray at a garage sale for $5. The previous owner had filled it with oil to the top of the dipstick tube and hydro-locked it. We tipped it over and drained it to the proper level, turned it over a few times to blow the oil out of the cylinder and cleaned the spark plug with a blowtorch.
My Dad would have exploded if I ever brought up the subject of using $.99 worth of oil to do an oil change. The mower lasted about 8 summers of cutting wet overgrown grass without ever having the oil or spark plug changed, never winterized, in fact if I remember right the wheels were the only thing that were ever fixed on it.
His maintenance plan was to ALWAYS before mowing to fill it to the full mark with SAE 30 oil and clean the cap and dipstick before and after since they don't have a filter. Done and done.
I dunno, I've read everything I can find on oil, and small engines, and have come to the conclusion that, you can use squirrel urine and they'll last at least two lifetimes. I mean, it seams that oil is almost a non issue in small engines, they get along well with any kind, type, brand etc. Heck, I have neighbors who are still using the original fill oil, FOUR or FIVE years later, maybe adding some when low, and maybe not!
Having said that, I'm a believer that if you want the best protection, and I'm not talking about running Redline and spending a ton of money, then something on the order of Mobil 1, in almost any flavor, (my favorite would be the High Mileage versions), Rotella T6, or Pennzoil Ultra. You can pick your viscosity, but I think 40W is as high as I would go. Other than those few restrictions, use what you like and worry not.
^My experience as well^
My Dad bought a new Briggs powered Murray at a garage sale for $5. The previous owner had filled it with oil to the top of the dipstick tube and hydro-locked it. We tipped it over and drained it to the proper level, turned it over a few times to blow the oil out of the cylinder and cleaned the spark plug with a blowtorch.
My Dad would have exploded if I ever brought up the subject of using $.99 worth of oil to do an oil change. The mower lasted about 8 summers of cutting wet overgrown grass without ever having the oil or spark plug changed, never winterized, in fact if I remember right the wheels were the only thing that were ever fixed on it.
His maintenance plan was to ALWAYS before mowing to fill it to the full mark with SAE 30 oil and clean the cap and dipstick before and after since they don't have a filter. Done and done.
I'm using Mobil 1 0W-40 in my good Snapper with Honda engine, 10w30 in another, whatever will pour out of the bottle on a third & 15w40 in the 8Hp B&S generator that hasn't seen duty in a couple years...
Running low on oil(actually out of) has no doubt killed more OPE engines than any "wrong" oil...
I know of five dead ones of myself and immediate neighbors(their property adjoins mine) that were tossed but only one was a oil issue...
1st B&S 7Hp blew head gasket, was gonna be tossed I saved it...
2nd was run over by a Ranger P/U, busted engine block(still amazed at that one), was maybe three years old...
3rd Tecumseh maybe four years old was ran out of oil, seizing the engine(they've killed a Honda now, set's out 24/7 all year, carb is bad)...
4th was mine, 1982 B&S hit stump in neighbors yard, broke crank...
5th another one of mine, 1981 B&S threw rod...
Then I'm not counting probably a dozen I've picked up here and there that none actually had a major engine problem, usually carb or wheels falling off, etc...
Running low on oil(actually out of) has no doubt killed more OPE engines than any "wrong" oil...
I know of five dead ones of myself and immediate neighbors(their property adjoins mine) that were tossed but only one was a oil issue...
1st B&S 7Hp blew head gasket, was gonna be tossed I saved it...
2nd was run over by a Ranger P/U, busted engine block(still amazed at that one), was maybe three years old...
3rd Tecumseh maybe four years old was ran out of oil, seizing the engine(they've killed a Honda now, set's out 24/7 all year, carb is bad)...
4th was mine, 1982 B&S hit stump in neighbors yard, broke crank...
5th another one of mine, 1981 B&S threw rod...
Then I'm not counting probably a dozen I've picked up here and there that none actually had a major engine problem, usually carb or wheels falling off, etc...
I use amsoil small engine oil in mine. Doesn't use any oil
I run rotella t-5 in ALL of my small engines and vehicles ( except the bmw). I've never had to add oil to the small engines, and i have a v-twin vanguard that i run oci to 100hrs.
On the other hand, when i ran 5w30 they did use oil. Probabilty around 1/2qt between changes.
On the other hand, when i ran 5w30 they did use oil. Probabilty around 1/2qt between changes.
Originally Posted By: Sam_Julier
I run Redline 5w30 in our Briggs & Stratton 500cc Vanguard powered GE 8kw standby generator. It has run continuously for 7 days (Irene) and 4 days (Sandy) with minimal oil consumption (above low mark on dipstick). I'm sure M1 would be fine as well I just happened to have the Redline.
I must say, in a lifethreatening or emergency situation, I would use the best I could afford. I was thinking of non-critical uses when replying above, mowing, tilling etc.
Also, you have to remember, that B&S has their recommendations as to oil and then the equipment manufacturer also has their own recommendations which might not necessarily cooincide. Who's right? It's your call.
As to oil use, I don't think it's all so easily blamed on syn vs. dino. I think some engines are going to use certain oil and some not. Even further some will use dino and some will use syn. I just don't think it's that easy to pin down without some testing. I use syn in my tractor and it never uses enough to even call it down on the dipstick, so essentially none. Dino does just as well. Others swear theirs uses syn by the bucket full, so you'll have to try for yourself.
I run Redline 5w30 in our Briggs & Stratton 500cc Vanguard powered GE 8kw standby generator. It has run continuously for 7 days (Irene) and 4 days (Sandy) with minimal oil consumption (above low mark on dipstick). I'm sure M1 would be fine as well I just happened to have the Redline.
I must say, in a lifethreatening or emergency situation, I would use the best I could afford. I was thinking of non-critical uses when replying above, mowing, tilling etc.
Also, you have to remember, that B&S has their recommendations as to oil and then the equipment manufacturer also has their own recommendations which might not necessarily cooincide. Who's right? It's your call.
As to oil use, I don't think it's all so easily blamed on syn vs. dino. I think some engines are going to use certain oil and some not. Even further some will use dino and some will use syn. I just don't think it's that easy to pin down without some testing. I use syn in my tractor and it never uses enough to even call it down on the dipstick, so essentially none. Dino does just as well. Others swear theirs uses syn by the bucket full, so you'll have to try for yourself.
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Originally Posted By: lars11
Please enlighten me, but why would anyone use 10w30 syn over 5w30 or 0w30, given equal cost?
I really think about this, some say that cheapo straight 30 is better in OPEs than, say, syn 5w30. How can that be?
They don't have a clue what they are talking about, that's how...
Please enlighten me, but why would anyone use 10w30 syn over 5w30 or 0w30, given equal cost?
I really think about this, some say that cheapo straight 30 is better in OPEs than, say, syn 5w30. How can that be?
They don't have a clue what they are talking about, that's how...
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