i have a 10 hp tecumseh snow blower and am having problems with the carb leaking gas i replaced the gasket around the carb replaced the float but it still leaks as soon as i hook up the gas line within 2 minutes it starts leaking any idea's
10 HP tecumseh snow blower carb problem
- Thread starter crazyoildude
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My Honda pressure washer did the same thing. The float was binding slightly and not cutting off the flow of gas, so basically the gas would drain into the engine. Not good. I removed the float and sanded down the sides where the pin goes through the float and stopped the binding, then replaced the needle valve. Problem solved. I had to do the repair twice, because I thought the float was working properly, but as it turned out I didn't sand enough material away. You might also be able to trim it with a razor blade. HTH
Does it leak while it's running?
If not, a fuel shut off valve can be installed in fuel line.
Shut it off when done using.
I've seen bent float pins; bad inlet neddles, soggy floats, etc....
Could be any of those.
If not, a fuel shut off valve can be installed in fuel line.
Shut it off when done using.
I've seen bent float pins; bad inlet neddles, soggy floats, etc....
Could be any of those.
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i have a 10 hp tecumseh snow blower and am having problems with the carb leaking gas i replaced the gasket around the carb replaced the float but it still leaks as soon as i hook up the gas line within 2 minutes it starts leaking any idea's
Did the engine sit for awhile in storage. Also was fuel present when in storage. I suspect something is plugged and needs to be clean out.
i have a 10 hp tecumseh snow blower and am having problems with the carb leaking gas i replaced the gasket around the carb replaced the float but it still leaks as soon as i hook up the gas line within 2 minutes it starts leaking any idea's
Did the engine sit for awhile in storage. Also was fuel present when in storage. I suspect something is plugged and needs to be clean out.
This is usually a float problem. Check the float needle and seat themselves. Depending on your model of carb the O-ring for the seat might be missing or damaged. There's also a float height adjustment which you need to get right.
Find your engine/carb in the manual at this URL: http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf and work through all of the carb float adjustments etc...
Regardless, I strongly recommend installing a shutoff if you don't already have one. Imagine the situation if a leak like this started when you weren't at home and dumped a whole tank of fuel on the ground wherever you store your blower. If this is an attached garage, it could be really bad news.
Find your engine/carb in the manual at this URL: http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf and work through all of the carb float adjustments etc...
Regardless, I strongly recommend installing a shutoff if you don't already have one. Imagine the situation if a leak like this started when you weren't at home and dumped a whole tank of fuel on the ground wherever you store your blower. If this is an attached garage, it could be really bad news.
These carbs need competely rebuilt including, soft plugs drilled and debris cleaned out, maybe even soaked and all ports and jets blown out with 30 psi. If you don;t do a complete rebuild on these, they will constantly become out of adjustment, and constanly flood. I hate techemseh carbs, and their engines in general. Kohler and B&S use far better carbs.
You have...
A pinhole in the float
OR
A bad rubber seat "o-ring" for the fuel check needle
OR a hole in the bowl
AND
if your carb overflows after, but not before running, there is a pinhole in the body (side) of the carb that's clogged up. It releases bowl pressure after you shut down the engine.
You don't need a fuel shutoff if everything else is working correctly and you don't leave the blower sit for years without treated gas. You didn't mention if the engine runs or not. If it runs like [censored] anyway, let us know so we can walk you through a rebuild to include o-rings on the nozzle.
AREN'T THIS FUN!!!
A pinhole in the float
OR
A bad rubber seat "o-ring" for the fuel check needle
OR a hole in the bowl
AND
if your carb overflows after, but not before running, there is a pinhole in the body (side) of the carb that's clogged up. It releases bowl pressure after you shut down the engine.
You don't need a fuel shutoff if everything else is working correctly and you don't leave the blower sit for years without treated gas. You didn't mention if the engine runs or not. If it runs like [censored] anyway, let us know so we can walk you through a rebuild to include o-rings on the nozzle.
AREN'T THIS FUN!!!
I wouldn't say you don't need a fuel shut valve it's good to have and also a fuel filter would be the first choice over a fuel shut valve.
I forgot fuel filter. Thanks! I buy about 35 of them from Tulsa Engine Warehouse before the blowers start coming in during the fall. They don't have them when they come in but most do when they leave my garage. This year, with the recession, fewer blowers in the early fall then just broken ones beginning with the first snow. I'm burning a lot of kerosene staying warm!
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