Toro CCR2450 can’t stop the carb from flooding

[2013ecof150]

I was given a Toro ccr2450 from a small engine repair shop that was going out of business. 5 hp R-tek 2 stroke engine.

No history on it at all, hasn’t ran in 5 plus years but at least it was stored empty. Great compression, piston and cylinder are pristine. Put fuel in it and it runs fine. Adjusted it to factory spec for rpms.

I cannot get the carb to stop flooding however, it uses a plastic carb which I’m very familiar with, as I own 3 duraforce lawnboys and rebuilt all of them with no issues.

Overnight it will completely fill the carb and it takes about 40 pulls to get it unflooded and then it runs great. The first couple pulls it will blow fuel out of the intake side of the carb.

I replaced the needle, seat, float and all carb gaskets with Toro oem parts. Set the float height to 1/2 inch above the carb flange per spec. Still does the exact same thing. Float moves freely and doesn’t seem to get stuck at all. I’m completely stumped as to why it would do this.

Any ideas what I should try next? I can install a fuel shut off valve inline, but I’d have to leave the back plastic over off, or remove it each time I’d want to use it.

Any ideas ?

 

[maraakate]

Are you using OEM float needles? The aftermarket kits tend to have poor seals.

With leaky carbs like this I will take them to the bench and fill them with mineral spirits. That way if it still leaks it's not as bad or foul smelling as opposed to leaking gasoline everywhere.

Check sides of the carb for air bleeds. If the passageway for that is plugged could be the issue. If there's an overflow standpipe check that to make sure that is not cracked or plugged.

 

[vwmaniaman]

I had that problem on a B&S carb on a 12HP rider. It would fill the block with gas so I ended up putting an in line fuel shut off on it. Added fuel line length to get it out from under the cover and drilled two holes in the edge of the cover and wire tied each fuel line there to hold the valve. A float that contains fuel can cause this. Mine I believe has a small crack in the carb but I could not find it. I replaced the needle and seat also to no avail.

 

[maraakate]

It's a newer mower so I doubt it would be a brass float with pinholes. I'd imagine if it had a hairline crack somewhere in the body then the mower would run very poorly.

You should have an in-line fuel shut off valve regardless and to avoid this exact situation you're having. If it floods too much and you try to start it you may bend a rod.

 

[iahawk]

I have the same blower and have had to replace the needle and seat a few times...no problems for the past 5+ years. A great hack for these 2450s is to bump the rpm from 3800 to the rpm of its big brother, the 3650 Snow Commander, to 4000 rpm. That was the only difference in the 2 blowers, the rpm.

I know a lot of people end up replacing the plastic carbs with metal ones.

 

[2013ecof150]

Are you using OEM float needles? The aftermarket kits tend to have poor seals.

All oem toro parts.

I have the same blower and have had to replace the needle and seat a few times...no problems for the past 5+ years. A great hack for these 2450s is to bump the rpm from 3800 to the rpm of its big brother, the 3650 Snow Commander, to 4000 rpm. That was the only difference in the 2 blowers, the rpm.

I read that somewhere too. It was turning about 3700 rpms initially, I bumped it to just shy of 4000

I’ve got a fully rebuilt duraforce mower carb laying around. I know I can swap over the jets but I’m not sure if the choke and throttle linkage will switch over.