10-30 in engine speced for 5-20
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I(ve done it and could tell no difference. I even got better fuel milelage on the 10w30, go figure. People that will tell you not to do it, never did. Strict manual followers. I have and I will garantee, you will not be able to tell the difference.
Originally Posted By: posty
Im approaching 95,000 mi on the honda 2.4 that calls for 5-20. Its starting to use about a quart between 5,000 oci.Im thinking about using up a jug of quaker state 10-30 i have for the summer. What do you guys think?
If you already have the 10W30, I say go for it. With 95k already on the meter and it using a quart per OCI, it may help. It may also do nothing, but you'll only know if you try it out.
As an aside, part of the formulation of High Mileage oils involves thickening them at operating temp, so a High Mileage 5w30 oil tends to be about as thick as the thinner 5W40 oils. The extra thickness, in and of itself, is often good for these older engines, since age increases the clearances inside.
The other part of the formula is esters to recondition seals that can start leaking. Since you have this already, I'd go ahead and give it a shot. If it doesn't cure the problem, you could try an High Mileage oil or adding something like Lubro Moly Motor Oil Saver to whatever oil you prefer. There is already a discussion of that product in the additives section if you're curious about it.
-Spyder
Im approaching 95,000 mi on the honda 2.4 that calls for 5-20. Its starting to use about a quart between 5,000 oci.Im thinking about using up a jug of quaker state 10-30 i have for the summer. What do you guys think?
If you already have the 10W30, I say go for it. With 95k already on the meter and it using a quart per OCI, it may help. It may also do nothing, but you'll only know if you try it out.
As an aside, part of the formulation of High Mileage oils involves thickening them at operating temp, so a High Mileage 5w30 oil tends to be about as thick as the thinner 5W40 oils. The extra thickness, in and of itself, is often good for these older engines, since age increases the clearances inside.
The other part of the formula is esters to recondition seals that can start leaking. Since you have this already, I'd go ahead and give it a shot. If it doesn't cure the problem, you could try an High Mileage oil or adding something like Lubro Moly Motor Oil Saver to whatever oil you prefer. There is already a discussion of that product in the additives section if you're curious about it.
-Spyder
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Our Honda dealer uses 5w30 in everything.
Go for it. I'm going to use 15w40 Shell Rotella, Triple Protection Dino Diesel for my next OCI when I get back to Coney Island. My Toyota 4Runner oil cap and manual have 5w30 or 10w30 as the oil.
However, these same Toyota 4Runner engines run fine in other parts of the world on 15w40.....so I will run this from the late Spring, thru the hot summer, and into the Autumn. I will add two quarts of Formula Shell, Conventional or synthetic, to get the sump up to 6 quarts with my oversized Bosch D+ filter.
However, these same Toyota 4Runner engines run fine in other parts of the world on 15w40.....so I will run this from the late Spring, thru the hot summer, and into the Autumn. I will add two quarts of Formula Shell, Conventional or synthetic, to get the sump up to 6 quarts with my oversized Bosch D+ filter.
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
I(ve done it and could tell no difference. I even got better fuel milelage on the 10w30, go figure. People that will tell you not to do it, never did. Strict manual followers. I have and I will garantee, you will not be able to tell the difference.
I had an Accord and I switched up to 5w30 and saw no difference in gas mileage but the engine seemed to run smoother. I agree w/ Panzerman 100%.
I(ve done it and could tell no difference. I even got better fuel milelage on the 10w30, go figure. People that will tell you not to do it, never did. Strict manual followers. I have and I will garantee, you will not be able to tell the difference.
I had an Accord and I switched up to 5w30 and saw no difference in gas mileage but the engine seemed to run smoother. I agree w/ Panzerman 100%.
I tried 5W20, 5W30 and now 5W40 in an engine that was originally spec'd for 5W30, then back spec'd to 5W20. My hope was to reduce oil use. Of the three, 5W20 reduced oil use the most. It depends on what is causing the oil use, if it is ring related the 20 grade will be better. Leaks, bad valve seals, or guides the "thicker" oil will be better. 10W30 is not going to hurt your engine and is certainly worth a shot.
my dad always used 10w30 in his 2007 Accord 2.4 even though I exhorted him to use the recommended 5w20. He said he had to top off the 5w20, so he quit using it. Car was running fine with just under 80K at the time it was totaled. He still had the original tires and lost control in a sudden thunderstorm at night. He walked away without a scratch, but the car was toast.
The moral of this story is: keeping tread on the tires is probably more important than your oil choice. Oh and 10w30 should work fine.
The moral of this story is: keeping tread on the tires is probably more important than your oil choice. Oh and 10w30 should work fine.
you can use 5w20 or 10w30 in the summer but the 5w20 will be better for your engine
You can use Quaker State 10W30 that you already have in the Honda in summer without any problem. But when you going out to buy oil for the next oil change you may want to buy high mileage 5W20 to stop/slow the small oil consumption.
Originally Posted By: Artem
Playing around with different oil weights if what probably caused your oil burn off in the first place.
I somehow doubt that. Although if you can come up with an explanation as to how this would be possible, I'd love to hear it.
-Spyder
Playing around with different oil weights if what probably caused your oil burn off in the first place.
I somehow doubt that. Although if you can come up with an explanation as to how this would be possible, I'd love to hear it.
-Spyder
Going from 5W-20 to 10w30 is gonna to rob you of alotta horsepower and fuel mileage.
The oil may even be too thick to squeeze into the bearings. You run the risk of seizing up the engine.
The oil may even be too thick to squeeze into the bearings. You run the risk of seizing up the engine.
I want to politely dissagree with the above comment seizing an engine up. Not gonna happen in a billion years. Forget the xW (weight), that's for the cold start aspect. Do look at the viscosity. 20 vs 30 the difference will be minimal once they get to operating temperature. I'm no chemist or engineer, but he may lose what? 1hp and maybe 1mpg if at all, over a tank of gas? Maybe. I say 10w30 is fine for his application.
Originally Posted By: trooper001
I want to politely dissagree with the above comment seizing an engine up. Not gonna happen in a billion years.
Hook - line - and sinker!!
I want to politely dissagree with the above comment seizing an engine up. Not gonna happen in a billion years.
Hook - line - and sinker!!
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: trooper001
I want to politely dissagree with the above comment seizing an engine up. Not gonna happen in a billion years.
Hook - line - and sinker!!
But the 30 weight won't get into the nooks & crannies....
Originally Posted By: trooper001
I want to politely dissagree with the above comment seizing an engine up. Not gonna happen in a billion years.
Hook - line - and sinker!!
But the 30 weight won't get into the nooks & crannies....
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: trooper001
I want to politely dissagree with the above comment seizing an engine up. Not gonna happen in a billion years.
Hook - line - and sinker!!
But the 30 weight won't get into the nooks & crannies....
It'll get there, it just takes longer.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: trooper001
I want to politely dissagree with the above comment seizing an engine up. Not gonna happen in a billion years.
Hook - line - and sinker!!
But the 30 weight won't get into the nooks & crannies....
It'll get there, it just takes longer.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Going from 5W-20 to 10w30 is gonna to rob you of alotta horsepower and fuel mileage.
The oil may even be too thick to squeeze into the bearings. You run the risk of seizing up the engine.
I run 10w30 in our Corolla, so the answer is yes. Go for it.
In fact, I just did my OC on the Subaru and put 10w30 in for the summer season. Last year was 15w40
Going from 5W-20 to 10w30 is gonna to rob you of alotta horsepower and fuel mileage.
The oil may even be too thick to squeeze into the bearings. You run the risk of seizing up the engine.
I run 10w30 in our Corolla, so the answer is yes. Go for it.
In fact, I just did my OC on the Subaru and put 10w30 in for the summer season. Last year was 15w40
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