You're expecting a lot from an oil if you think it's going to catch up with a dirty engine. If you want to do it on the cheap, get a big bottle of MMO, drain off 10% of your oil and top off with MMO at 1k before the next oil change. Then about 100 miles before the oil change drain 10% again and top off. Then do your normal oil change and at 1k before the next change do it again if you need it, and keep doing it as long as you need to. While you're doing this dump a big dose in the gas tank to. Crude but cheap.
1 Quart of Redline to clean your engine?
- Thread starter PT1
- Start date
- Status
i did this, not only with MMO, but 12oz of seafoam into the oil...NOTHING.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...6s42brm96a3b9vs
Well I'm giving it a 1000 mile flush with rislone and then drain to see what I find. Then it gets maxlife.
I do not think that anyone that has been on this site for a while would ever reccomend any oil for serious cleaning!!! How many hundreds of times does this have to be covered???? No HDDEO,Synthetic or Dino is ever going to do enough cleaning to qualify as a cleaner or solvent!! No some oils do accomplish some cleaning but it is always at the espense of the oils lubricity and longevity!!! SOme oils will also do a better job of keeping an already clean engine clean! Synthetics especialy ones with a high ester content will always do a better job of keeping the engine clean then any other type of oil! An oil tha is 100% ester based is never going to leave deposits in an a daily driver with any reasonable OCI! This does not mean they are going to do a good job cleaning up a sludge up beast. They will clean light build up out of an engine enough to skew the UOA results but that is about it. It would take years of useing an ester based oil to really clean it out if it was dirty! Auto_rx and Lube COntrol 20 and Nutrea 131 are all proven winner and are cost effective.
Seafoam is really only effective on light varnish not sludge orhardened varnish. MMO is only slightlty better but takes a lot of repeat use to really make a dent. B12 will disolve sludge and varnish but does it with really harsh solvents that can attack metals and seal materials. It does not attack sludge or varnish in a controlled manner so it can cause some issues. Risolene is preety much useless for varnish or sludge. Maxlife is not going to do any real cleaning either. Amsoil and Golden Eagle engine flush will get some varnish and light presludge build up fairly well and are not that harsh as compared to B12 but are still only doing light cleaning and should not be used freq. either!
N 131, LC20 and ARX can be used when ever you want even at each oil change if you wanted to with no damage! I will say this though if you use LC20 and have a dirty engine I would modify the current directions until the engine is clean. I would do a 500 mile flush with 16 onces of LC20 first then after that follow the general direction but double the amount used! Once the engine is clean then go back to the modern current directions! The old directions were better in my opion for people with dirty engines the new directions are a bit conservative for deep cleaning!
N 131, LC20 and ARX can be used when ever you want even at each oil change if you wanted to with no damage! I will say this though if you use LC20 and have a dirty engine I would modify the current directions until the engine is clean. I would do a 500 mile flush with 16 onces of LC20 first then after that follow the general direction but double the amount used! Once the engine is clean then go back to the modern current directions! The old directions were better in my opion for people with dirty engines the new directions are a bit conservative for deep cleaning!
"Proof Please " ? It's right here on this board. Go find it yourself. You have not seen this information ? Then you didn't read the same threads/posts that I did.
Here - I'll spoon-feed one to you because it's recent and I remember it. Look for BrianWC's recent post on ARX results. Then search some of Terry Dyson's posts.
- Status
