1 quart MMO or 16 oz for first time cleaning ?

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I have run 1quart of MMO with Motorcraft semi syn in my Ranger for over 4000 miles now, And I have to say the oil is really black by now.

I Know the color doesnt really tell you anything but I never seen it this black (150k+ 4.0 engine). First time I ever had MMO in the oil of this truck.

Will soon change out the oil to either PU or Rotella T6.
Dont think I'll add any MMO to that.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
MMO is not a fast flush, leave it in for the OCI.


So, no matter what the concentration, it cannot be used as such??


They suggest no more than 20%. If the concentration is greater than that you're experimenting/gambling.
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
so your saying, I should use 10w40 instead of recomment 10w30, since MMO will thin out the 40 weight.


You can, or use the 10W30 and keep an eye on the oil level. In fact any time you use MMO it is a good idea to keep checking your oil, because in some engines it does burn off. I never went up a grade in oil. Typically if I was running a full qt of MMO I would do it during the winter time. MMO helps aid in cold starting, and if it thinned my oil any I'd rather have it thinned during the winter time. Either way it is not going to ruin your engine.
 
Do you always re-check your oil level in the same spot? Do so with the engine completely cold to get consistent readings, otherwise a half a quart is probably not the MMO in of itself, though possible if you have a small oil leak somewhere externally(maybe mechanically as well).
 
No oil leak or burn oil. Buy i do smell some burn smell after add the MMO. I plan to throw away the mos2 luby moly can. Not a fan of muddy looking oil. I add MMO just hope it clean off all the muddy moly on my engine
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to get in a thought on this thread.

I have a little over 230,000 miles on a jeep's 4.0HO engine. If I add a qt or half a quart of MMO would it tend to make the seals on my jeep go haywire and start leaking or would it be all alright?

I am using vavoline maxlife 10w40 and I don't want to have any leaks now if I go about adding MMO. I had the rear main replaced last year june and when I had that done I had a new oil pump put in as well.

230,000 miles...A little MMO wouldn't hurt would it?
 
^No one can truly say specifically, IMO, but one oil change interval with MMO isn't going to break your seals or gaskets. It's not super aggressive and will only get things 'moving' regarding cleansing.

You are using a HM oil already, it probably will have no effect at all as far as causing more oil consumption(by adding MMO), unless somehow during the OCI it cleaned out things and 'revealed' a leak. It won't create one in of itself. If the new rear main was going to go by adding a little MMO, it was a lousy replacement rear main anyway, quite frankly. It won't break new gaskets/seals/rubber etc; by itself in moderate use. Occasional is one thing, I've never used it constantly and I don't think anyone on here would recommend using it for long periods of time or every oil change, if that's what you were wondering at all, too.

If it were me, I'd just put Rotella T5 in there during this winter and see how things go, it's an HDEO oil and once the hot weather is gone I doubt you'll need the 40 weight in the winter; unless your vehicle consumes quite a bit already or it calls for 40 exclusively. Either way, the HDEO would be almost as thick as the Max Life 10w40, since it's a HDEO and not a PCMO( a thick 10w-30).

That + MMO during this winter would be ideal for any attempts to 'clean' things up. Question, do you know if you have sludge or just a good amount of carbon deposits...the cleanliness of the engine at all(since the rear main was replaced as well as the oil pump)?
 
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oh no... Back when the rear main was done there wasn't very much if any sludge from what I remember. The bottom of the crank with the sleeves or caps(???) were in good shape with the mileage that was on it then.

I have never thought of using a full synthetic at all, but there was once upon a time when I used Mobil 1 synthetic back in high school and my jeep leaked terribly. Now I am sure it would be fine but I am a little skeptical...
 
Well, my suggestion for Rotella T5 is because it's not a full-synthetic and would basically act as a thicker oil than a 5w-30 or 10w-30, closer to the 10w-40 MaxLife your Jeep is running on currently. Maybe I'm off base, but I remember other Jeep's running either T5 or T6 with solid performance. Of course, that doesn't define what engine they had, etc.

Still, no need to worry about going full syn where you are, stay on the HM setup for a while and see where trending leads to. Give it a year at least(in other words, a few intervals not one or two). Not sure how long you've settled on a HM oil, though...

BTW, what is the originally specified oil grade? 10w30 or 10w40?

Either way, use of MMO isn't going to break you if you don't have sludge and will do some light cleansing. Personally, I just wouldn't go beyond 3,000 with MMO or any solvent in my oil during a deliberate cleanup interval.
 
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currently running t5 10w30 with 1 quart mmo, so far so good. next oil change I properly running T6 with 16 oz mmo
 
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Sounds good.

I'd still like to know: What does the manual call for regarding your Jeep? 30 or 40? In Mississippi, I doubt the 5w-40 T6(full synthetic) is needed in your winters.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
If you ran the complete cleaning per Auto-RX as recommended and your not satisfied, then I doubt MMO will do any better.


It doesn't hurt to try, sometimes changing chemistry is all it takes to do a bang-up job cleaning an engine.
 
I have been using valvoline's maxlife for I think since when it first was put up on the shelves. SO more than 5years maybe 7yrs or more... 10w40 currently but have been using 10w30 for the longest time. My next oil change is due up soon maybe next month sometime. I might just try out some of that T5 rotella and see how much different the jeep drives or likes the switch. The 4.0ho is already pretty quiet with no real valves tapping and such. But I think a switch is in order just for the sake of switching and seeing what a different brand oil that isn't a HM oil would do.

thanks to metalslug for posting up front this topic.
 
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