Is there an advantage to having an account over not having one? I'm interested in getting some PC 0w30 for my girlfriend's car and my mom's.
0wt oils for the winter
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Originally Posted By: cp3
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Isn't PP available here now in 0w20?
It is sporadically, but at 9 bucks and change a litre at my local Walmart it's a bad deal.
The best 20wt deal in Canada is the Honda (Idemitsu) 0W-20 that can be had for under $5/L on a case of 12.
Closely followed by the EOM made Toyota 0W-20 which is $25/5L jug.
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Isn't PP available here now in 0w20?
It is sporadically, but at 9 bucks and change a litre at my local Walmart it's a bad deal.
The best 20wt deal in Canada is the Honda (Idemitsu) 0W-20 that can be had for under $5/L on a case of 12.
Closely followed by the EOM made Toyota 0W-20 which is $25/5L jug.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: cp3
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Isn't PP available here now in 0w20?
It is sporadically, but at 9 bucks and change a litre at my local Walmart it's a bad deal.
A couple of weeks ago it was on sale at Canadian Tire for around $5.50 per liter.
Originally Posted By: cp3
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Isn't PP available here now in 0w20?
It is sporadically, but at 9 bucks and change a litre at my local Walmart it's a bad deal.
A couple of weeks ago it was on sale at Canadian Tire for around $5.50 per liter.
Oh ya, forgot all about the Honda and Toyota. Too bad they don't make a 0w30.
Make your own.
A blend with the cheapest 0W-40 you can find will produce a killer 0W-30 with a 200+ VI. For example that's what a 2/1 blend of Toyota 0W-20 and Rotella T5 0W-40 would produce for a bargain price.
This blend, or with any similar 40wt, will the lightest 0W-30 by far on start-up to anything available commercially.
A blend with the cheapest 0W-40 you can find will produce a killer 0W-30 with a 200+ VI. For example that's what a 2/1 blend of Toyota 0W-20 and Rotella T5 0W-40 would produce for a bargain price.
This blend, or with any similar 40wt, will the lightest 0W-30 by far on start-up to anything available commercially.
Originally Posted By: fraso
I'm in Fort Erie and have an account with PetroCanada. I can get you a few bottles if you want to try the 0W-30.
Yes, I do. What do you have sir? PM me if it helps
I'm in Fort Erie and have an account with PetroCanada. I can get you a few bottles if you want to try the 0W-30.
Yes, I do. What do you have sir? PM me if it helps
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: cp3
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Isn't PP available here now in 0w20?
It is sporadically, but at 9 bucks and change a litre at my local Walmart it's a bad deal.
The best 20wt deal in Canada is the Honda (Idemitsu) 0W-20 that can be had for under $5/L on a case of 12.
Closely followed by the EOM made Toyota 0W-20 which is $25/5L jug.
Where are you guys finding the Toyota and Honda 0w20s for those prices? I've called the Burlington and Oakville dealerships for both makes. The pricing ranges from $7.xx - $9.xx per litre. No difference in buying a case or a 5L jug. I'd love to try either one of these oils in my Mustang for the impending winter, but I'm not that curious at those prices.
Originally Posted By: cp3
Originally Posted By: SLCraig
Isn't PP available here now in 0w20?
It is sporadically, but at 9 bucks and change a litre at my local Walmart it's a bad deal.
The best 20wt deal in Canada is the Honda (Idemitsu) 0W-20 that can be had for under $5/L on a case of 12.
Closely followed by the EOM made Toyota 0W-20 which is $25/5L jug.
Where are you guys finding the Toyota and Honda 0w20s for those prices? I've called the Burlington and Oakville dealerships for both makes. The pricing ranges from $7.xx - $9.xx per litre. No difference in buying a case or a 5L jug. I'd love to try either one of these oils in my Mustang for the impending winter, but I'm not that curious at those prices.
Yes the Toyota price is $7.xx/L but it also comes in a 5L jug for $25 bucks. But the price is negotiable. Member rcy picked up a 12L case at Burlington Toyota for $4.75/L a while back.
Member marting picked up a 12L case of the Honda at Kitchener Honda for $55.80, that's $4.65/L. Last year I picked up a couple of litres at Halton Honda in Burlington for $5.17/L; Oakville Honda wanted 10 bucks!
Anyway, the Toyota 0W-20 is the lightest of the two oils on start-up so I'd try that oil.
Member marting picked up a 12L case of the Honda at Kitchener Honda for $55.80, that's $4.65/L. Last year I picked up a couple of litres at Halton Honda in Burlington for $5.17/L; Oakville Honda wanted 10 bucks!
Anyway, the Toyota 0W-20 is the lightest of the two oils on start-up so I'd try that oil.
The car calls for a 30wt so I i'd like to stick to that atleast.
The only other option is that I do have some GC sitting on the shelf that I bought a while ago. I planed on using this oil in my Trans Am in the spring. Now I am debating throwing it in the Altima.....
The only other option is that I do have some GC sitting on the shelf that I bought a while ago. I planed on using this oil in my Trans Am in the spring. Now I am debating throwing it in the Altima.....
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Yes the Toyota price is $7.xx/L but it also comes in a 5L jug for $25 bucks. But the price is negotiable. Member rcy picked up a 12L case at Burlington Toyota for $4.75/L a while back.
Member marting picked up a 12L case of the Honda at Kitchener Honda for $55.80, that's $4.65/L. Last year I picked up a couple of litres at Halton Honda in Burlington for $5.17/L; Oakville Honda wanted 10 bucks!
Anyway, the Toyota 0W-20 is the lightest of the two oils on start-up so I'd try that oil.
Burlington Toyota called me back and corrected the pricing they gave me. I picked up 6L at $5.65/Litre from them. They told me that they had the 5L jugs because they did not have the 0w20 in bulk yet, but they were the same price as 5 single 1L bottles.
I put it in today for the winter. I'm almost looking forward to those extra cold mornings now, lol.
Yes the Toyota price is $7.xx/L but it also comes in a 5L jug for $25 bucks. But the price is negotiable. Member rcy picked up a 12L case at Burlington Toyota for $4.75/L a while back.
Member marting picked up a 12L case of the Honda at Kitchener Honda for $55.80, that's $4.65/L. Last year I picked up a couple of litres at Halton Honda in Burlington for $5.17/L; Oakville Honda wanted 10 bucks!
Anyway, the Toyota 0W-20 is the lightest of the two oils on start-up so I'd try that oil.
Burlington Toyota called me back and corrected the pricing they gave me. I picked up 6L at $5.65/Litre from them. They told me that they had the 5L jugs because they did not have the 0w20 in bulk yet, but they were the same price as 5 single 1L bottles.
I put it in today for the winter. I'm almost looking forward to those extra cold mornings now, lol.
$5.65/L is a good price for the Toyota 0W-20.
You don't have to wait for those extra cold mornings to realize the start-up benefits of the Toyota 0W-20 due to it's ultra high 214 VI. Even at 5C it's almost 50% lighter than a typical 5W-20.
You don't have to wait for those extra cold mornings to realize the start-up benefits of the Toyota 0W-20 due to it's ultra high 214 VI. Even at 5C it's almost 50% lighter than a typical 5W-20.
Originally Posted By: Striker
The car calls for a 30wt so I i'd like to stick to that atleast.
The only other option is that I do have some GC sitting on the shelf that I bought a while ago. I planed on using this oil in my Trans Am in the spring. Now I am debating throwing it in the Altima.....
Since the GC is thicker than necessary for the Altima why not cut it 50% with some Toyota 0W-20? The result would be a 0W-30 with a HTHSV on par with M1 0W-30 but with a much higher VI approaching 190; no one makes a 0W-30 that good.
The car calls for a 30wt so I i'd like to stick to that atleast.
The only other option is that I do have some GC sitting on the shelf that I bought a while ago. I planed on using this oil in my Trans Am in the spring. Now I am debating throwing it in the Altima.....
Since the GC is thicker than necessary for the Altima why not cut it 50% with some Toyota 0W-20? The result would be a 0W-30 with a HTHSV on par with M1 0W-30 but with a much higher VI approaching 190; no one makes a 0W-30 that good.
I'd rather not to be perfectly honest. I'm not down with micxing oil, etc. never done it before, plus the hassle isn't worth it.
Does anyone know if GC is compatible wih my Altima's requirements?I don't want to cause more agrevation than good.
Does anyone know if GC is compatible wih my Altima's requirements?I don't want to cause more agrevation than good.
GC is an SL oil and therefore doesn't meet the Altima's oil spec's nor any late model car.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
GC is an SL oil and therefore doesn't meet the Altima's oil spec's nor any late model car.
...except for cars that call for any of the other specs that GC carries.
I'm pretty sure I know what you meant. Just want to make sure everything's clear.
GC is an SL oil and therefore doesn't meet the Altima's oil spec's nor any late model car.
...except for cars that call for any of the other specs that GC carries.
I'm pretty sure I know what you meant. Just want to make sure everything's clear.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
The result would be a 0W-30 with a HTHSV on par with M1 0W-30 but with a much higher VI approaching 190; no one makes a 0W-30 that good.
So, in your opinion, the ~7 points less VI of RL 0W-30 (despite all of it's other characteristics/benefits, that might be SUPERIOR) makes it "not as good"??!
The result would be a 0W-30 with a HTHSV on par with M1 0W-30 but with a much higher VI approaching 190; no one makes a 0W-30 that good.
So, in your opinion, the ~7 points less VI of RL 0W-30 (despite all of it's other characteristics/benefits, that might be SUPERIOR) makes it "not as good"??!
Hi dailydriver,
Perhaps I should have said "no one makes a light 0W-30 with a VI that high", namely 190.
RL 0W-30 is one of only two or three 30wts available with a VI even over 180, but it is a somewhat heavier oil with it HTHSV of 3.2cP. And of course it can be blended with RL 0W-40 (VI 197) to produce an even heavier 30wt with correspondingly higher VIs.
RL 0W-20 would have a similar HTHSV to my GC/Toyota blend but has a VI of only 166, admittedly achieved without the use of any VIIs.
Actually, RLI 0W-30 has a VI of 193
Perhaps I should have said "no one makes a light 0W-30 with a VI that high", namely 190.
RL 0W-30 is one of only two or three 30wts available with a VI even over 180, but it is a somewhat heavier oil with it HTHSV of 3.2cP. And of course it can be blended with RL 0W-40 (VI 197) to produce an even heavier 30wt with correspondingly higher VIs.
RL 0W-20 would have a similar HTHSV to my GC/Toyota blend but has a VI of only 166, admittedly achieved without the use of any VIIs.
Actually, RLI 0W-30 has a VI of 193
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Actually, RLI 0W-30 has a VI of 193
I'd like to try that oil, but I need to know MUCH more (and probably much more than their techs are willing to divulge), about their add pack, and base oil contents.
Actually, RLI 0W-30 has a VI of 193
I'd like to try that oil, but I need to know MUCH more (and probably much more than their techs are willing to divulge), about their add pack, and base oil contents.
Hi fpracha,
I get asked that a lot, but fuel economy isn't my reason at all; it's a nice consiquence though.
The reason for wanting the lightest oil possible on start-up is partly philosophical and partly practical.
Firstly all motor oil, even the 216 VI Toyota 0W-20, is heavier than is ideal on start-up even if it's 120F outside. You still can't start an engine cold and use even modestly high rev's without the oil pump going into by-pass mode; it's just too thick until you can get some heat into the oil to further thin it out and that takes time which can be frustrating if you are anxious to extract full power from your engine.
Running a high VI oil is like having a head start-up on the warming up process vs it's low VI equivalent. The advantage in cold driveability is immediately apparent. Due to the lower oil drag the engine behaves as if it's already partially warmed up; rev's easily and in the case of my Caterham which doesn't have electronic idle control will idle immediately upon starting without any choke necessary.
It's unfortunate that most BITOGers don't have oil pressures gauges in their vehicles as they are effectively blind to the lower oil pressure on start-up that results with a high VI oil.
As a consiquence an oil's VI is just a number that doesn't seem to have much practical importance except for very cold starting.
When I say the Toyota 0W-20 is 35% lighter on start-up compared to a typical 5W-20 at room temperature that doesn't impress most, but if they had an OP gauge in their car to confirm it and they knew that they normally had to drive around for at least 10 minutes to heat up the old 5W-20 oil to realize the same OP, that would make more of an impression. Then the more technically inclined would realize just how great an ultra high VI oil really is in the daily running of their vehicles.
I get asked that a lot, but fuel economy isn't my reason at all; it's a nice consiquence though.
The reason for wanting the lightest oil possible on start-up is partly philosophical and partly practical.
Firstly all motor oil, even the 216 VI Toyota 0W-20, is heavier than is ideal on start-up even if it's 120F outside. You still can't start an engine cold and use even modestly high rev's without the oil pump going into by-pass mode; it's just too thick until you can get some heat into the oil to further thin it out and that takes time which can be frustrating if you are anxious to extract full power from your engine.
Running a high VI oil is like having a head start-up on the warming up process vs it's low VI equivalent. The advantage in cold driveability is immediately apparent. Due to the lower oil drag the engine behaves as if it's already partially warmed up; rev's easily and in the case of my Caterham which doesn't have electronic idle control will idle immediately upon starting without any choke necessary.
It's unfortunate that most BITOGers don't have oil pressures gauges in their vehicles as they are effectively blind to the lower oil pressure on start-up that results with a high VI oil.
As a consiquence an oil's VI is just a number that doesn't seem to have much practical importance except for very cold starting.
When I say the Toyota 0W-20 is 35% lighter on start-up compared to a typical 5W-20 at room temperature that doesn't impress most, but if they had an OP gauge in their car to confirm it and they knew that they normally had to drive around for at least 10 minutes to heat up the old 5W-20 oil to realize the same OP, that would make more of an impression. Then the more technically inclined would realize just how great an ultra high VI oil really is in the daily running of their vehicles.
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