Yup, 0w40 is my suggestion as well.0w40 is my favorite 30 "weight".
Yup, 0w40 is my suggestion as well.0w40 is my favorite 30 "weight".
The rest of my family living in NW Wisconsin (Hayward area) use 5w-30 oil with no Winter starting problems.Even in the sub zero temperatures of Chicago winters? I was thinking maybe a 0w oil in the winter time ?
I highly recommend searching this board for 540rat, there has been some rather extensive discussion of his "testing" and methodology in the past.Hello everyone thank you for all your responses. I don’t know if anyone on here is familiar with 504 rat he does oil testing and states that Quaker State is one of the top oils. He too suggested 5w30 not 0w20. He also stated that 5w30 will give me a small 1-3% boost in horsepower maybe up to 5% over 0w20? How is this possible ? Wouldn’t thicker oil cause the pump to work harder? Logically I would think that a thinner oil would cool down faster and offer more horsepower at the expense of less wear protection.
I know one guy on the Honda forums blew up his stock turbo he was tuned and Honda replaced the turbo for free while under warranty. I guess it depends how deep they look into it but mine they will see the aftermarket turbo etc.You did some modifications, so your warranty is gone anyway. Dealership doesn't have to prove anything. Read your warranty.
Use a 30 weight in that engine should be fine.
That’s probably not to say that Quaker State is a bad oil though right ? I’m shocked how thin the 0w20 QS oil is though at 100c it’s 8.33, Redline 0w20 is 9.1 and Pennzoil Ultra Plat is 8.8 same with Amsoil.I highly recommend searching this board for 540rat, there has been some rather extensive discussion of his "testing" and methodology in the past.
Quaker State is just fine, yes. It's an approved oil that had to pass all the testing to carry those approvals.That’s probably not to say that Quaker State is a bad oil though right ? I’m shocked how thin the 0w20 QS oil is though at 100c it’s 8.33, Redline 0w20 is 9.1 and Pennzoil Ultra Plat is 8.8 same with Amsoil.
Thanks. I’ll switch to Quaker State 5w30. I used to run Royal Purple in my Trailblazer SS years ago and on a long road trip I was shocked how low my oil pressure was dropping. I think certain oils like that “shear”. I wonder if that’s how they get their horsepower gains ? The oil thins out so much ? Hard to say.Quaker State is just fine, yes. It's an approved oil that had to pass all the testing to carry those approvals.
As I said..."Of the two choices". 0W30 was not mentioned.Even in the sub zero temperatures of Chicago winters? I was thinking maybe a 0w oil in the winter time ?
That and a new car every 6 years, with all the salt they dump on the roads there.If I lived in Illinois I would be shopping for oil over at HPL Lubricants.
I think things are getting better corrosion-wise. Michigan is just as bad or worse with salt. I recently sold a 17 yo Trailblazer that was just beginning to rust out on the bottom edges of the doors. My '14 JGC has seen 9 Michigan winters. It has zero body rust and looks fantastic underneath. I was so impressed with the lack of corrosion, I bought a '22 JGC.That and a new car every 6 years, with all the salt they dump on the roads there.
Unless you live in Alaska and must have a 30wt in the crankcase, there are usually better grades to use.Why not 0W-30? That way you're keeping the "0" in the equation. That's what I run in my Toyota 2.5L 4 cylinder.
The OEM "requires" 0W-16. I wouldn't use that out here in the desert for love or money. I could get away with 15W-40. They spec that engine for that weight in both Australia and Russia. Where they don't have CAFE to deal with.Unless you live in Alaska and must have a 30wt in the crankcase, there are usually better grades to use.
(Unless your OEM requires it as well, but there are very few cars that spec 0W-30.)
The shear stability of most API 0W30’s is incredibly poor and they are loaded with VII, which is prone to causing piston ring deposits.The OEM "requires" 0W-16. I wouldn't use that out here in the desert for love or money. I could get away with 15W-40. They spec that engine for that weight in both Australia and Russia. Where they don't have CAFE to deal with.
I most likely could. It does get chilly here in the Winter. Not below freezing, but it can get close in the early morning hours. But inside my garage it rarely gets below 60 F.Since you’re in the desert and desire a 30wt, why not use a 10W30?
I think the problem is that many of the API 10W-30's are also loaded with VII, if Mobil's examples are any indicationThe shear stability of most API 0W30’s is incredibly poor and they are loaded with VII, which is prone to causing piston ring deposits.
Since you’re in the desert and desire a 30wt, why not use a 10W30?