0w20 vs 5w30?

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Bman90

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Hello everyone thank you for all your responses. I don’t know if anyone on here is familiar with 504 rat he does oil testing and states that Quaker State is one of the top oils. He too suggested 5w30 not 0w20. He also stated that 5w30 will give me a small 1-3% boost in horsepower maybe up to 5% over 0w20? How is this possible ? Wouldn’t thicker oil cause the pump to work harder? Logically I would think that a thinner oil would cool down faster and offer more horsepower at the expense of less wear protection.
 

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Hello everyone thank you for all your responses. I don’t know if anyone on here is familiar with 504 rat he does oil testing and states that Quaker State is one of the top oils. He too suggested 5w30 not 0w20. He also stated that 5w30 will give me a small 1-3% boost in horsepower maybe up to 5% over 0w20? How is this possible ? Wouldn’t thicker oil cause the pump to work harder? Logically I would think that a thinner oil would cool down faster and offer more horsepower at the expense of less wear protection.
I highly recommend searching this board for 540rat, there has been some rather extensive discussion of his "testing" and methodology in the past.
 

Bman90

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You did some modifications, so your warranty is gone anyway. Dealership doesn't have to prove anything. Read your warranty.

Use a 30 weight in that engine should be fine.
I know one guy on the Honda forums blew up his stock turbo he was tuned and Honda replaced the turbo for free while under warranty. I guess it depends how deep they look into it but mine they will see the aftermarket turbo etc.
 

Bman90

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I highly recommend searching this board for 540rat, there has been some rather extensive discussion of his "testing" and methodology in the past.
That’s probably not to say that Quaker State is a bad oil though right ? I’m shocked how thin the 0w20 QS oil is though at 100c it’s 8.33, Redline 0w20 is 9.1 and Pennzoil Ultra Plat is 8.8 same with Amsoil.
 

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That’s probably not to say that Quaker State is a bad oil though right ? I’m shocked how thin the 0w20 QS oil is though at 100c it’s 8.33, Redline 0w20 is 9.1 and Pennzoil Ultra Plat is 8.8 same with Amsoil.
Quaker State is just fine, yes. It's an approved oil that had to pass all the testing to carry those approvals.
 

Bman90

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Quaker State is just fine, yes. It's an approved oil that had to pass all the testing to carry those approvals.
Thanks. I’ll switch to Quaker State 5w30. I used to run Royal Purple in my Trailblazer SS years ago and on a long road trip I was shocked how low my oil pressure was dropping. I think certain oils like that “shear”. I wonder if that’s how they get their horsepower gains ? The oil thins out so much ? Hard to say.
 
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That and a new car every 6 years, with all the salt they dump on the roads there.
I think things are getting better corrosion-wise. Michigan is just as bad or worse with salt. I recently sold a 17 yo Trailblazer that was just beginning to rust out on the bottom edges of the doors. My '14 JGC has seen 9 Michigan winters. It has zero body rust and looks fantastic underneath. I was so impressed with the lack of corrosion, I bought a '22 JGC.
 
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If I did modifications to the engine the last thing I'd be worried about is if bumping the oil up a grade or two is going to cause a warranty issue. I'd run an good xw30 or xw40 and sleep well knowing my modified engine has better protection with the "thicker" oil. hide
 
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Why not 0W-30? That way you're keeping the "0" in the equation. That's what I run in my Toyota 2.5L 4 cylinder.
Unless you live in Alaska and must have a 30wt in the crankcase, there are usually better grades to use.

(Unless your OEM requires it as well, but there are very few cars that spec 0W-30.)
 
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Unless you live in Alaska and must have a 30wt in the crankcase, there are usually better grades to use.

(Unless your OEM requires it as well, but there are very few cars that spec 0W-30.)
The OEM "requires" 0W-16. I wouldn't use that out here in the desert for love or money. I could get away with 15W-40. They spec that engine for that weight in both Australia and Russia. Where they don't have CAFE to deal with.
 
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The OEM "requires" 0W-16. I wouldn't use that out here in the desert for love or money. I could get away with 15W-40. They spec that engine for that weight in both Australia and Russia. Where they don't have CAFE to deal with.
The shear stability of most API 0W30’s is incredibly poor and they are loaded with VII, which is prone to causing piston ring deposits.

Since you’re in the desert and desire a 30wt, why not use a 10W30?
 
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Since you’re in the desert and desire a 30wt, why not use a 10W30?
I most likely could. It does get chilly here in the Winter. Not below freezing, but it can get close in the early morning hours. But inside my garage it rarely gets below 60 F.

I can tell you the engine is MUCH quieter running 0W-30 than it was with 0W-16. Especially at idle when it's fully up to operating temperature.
 

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The shear stability of most API 0W30’s is incredibly poor and they are loaded with VII, which is prone to causing piston ring deposits.

Since you’re in the desert and desire a 30wt, why not use a 10W30?
I think the problem is that many of the API 10W-30's are also loaded with VII, if Mobil's examples are any indication ;)
Screen Shot 2022-07-08 at 10.28.18 AM.jpg


As I've said before, the narrower spreads just allow the companies to use cheaper bases and increase profits. This is compounded by grades like 10W-30 being obsolete and not having to be approved for things like dexos if we are talking PCMO applications.

While offerings from boutique companies will indeed leverage the same high dollar base oils in their narrower spreads (AMSOIL SS, HPL, Redline...etc), decreasing VII content, that's unlikely with any of the majors who, as long as they can meet the performance requirements, will gladly just use a cheaper base oil blend and the same VII content as they do with a 5W-30 for example.
 
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