0w20 vs 5w30?

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Hello everyone thank you for all your responses. I don’t know if anyone on here is familiar with 504 rat he does oil testing and states that Quaker State is one of the top oils. He too suggested 5w30 not 0w20. He also stated that 5w30 will give me a small 1-3% boost in horsepower maybe up to 5% over 0w20? How is this possible ? Wouldn’t thicker oil cause the pump to work harder? Logically I would think that a thinner oil would cool down faster and offer more horsepower at the expense of less wear protection.
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I think the problem is that many of the API 10W-30's are also loaded with VII, if Mobil's examples are any indication ;)

As I've said before, the narrower spreads just allow the companies to use cheaper bases and increase profits. This is compounded by grades like 10W-30 being obsolete and not having to be approved for things like dexos if we are talking PCMO applications.

While offerings from boutique companies will indeed leverage the same high dollar base oils in their narrower spreads (AMSOIL SS, HPL, Redline...etc), decreasing VII content, that's unlikely with any of the majors who, as long as they can meet the performance requirements, will gladly just use a cheaper base oil blend and the same VII content as they do with a 5W-30 for example.

So...... In plain English does this mean that Full Synthetic 0W-30 is a better quality oil lubrication wise, than the same oil in a 10W-30 grade?
 
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I know one guy on the Honda forums blew up his stock turbo he was tuned and Honda replaced the turbo for free while under warranty. I guess it depends how deep they look into it but mine they will see the aftermarket turbo etc.
The only way you have even a remote prayer of having anything covered under warranty is if you restore it to the same configuration it left the factory before you take it in for service. Once they see your mods then it’s all on you.
 
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I think the problem is that many of the API 10W-30's are also loaded with VII, if Mobil's examples are any indication ;)
View attachment 111260

As I've said before, the narrower spreads just allow the companies to use cheaper bases and increase profits. This is compounded by grades like 10W-30 being obsolete and not having to be approved for things like dexos if we are talking PCMO applications.

While offerings from boutique companies will indeed leverage the same high dollar base oils in their narrower spreads (AMSOIL SS, HPL, Redline...etc), decreasing VII content, that's unlikely with any of the majors who, as long as they can meet the performance requirements, will gladly just use a cheaper base oil blend and the same VII content as they do with a 5W-30 for example.
I think this may be true for conventional oils, but historically, I don’t think any oil does worse than M1 0W30 from a viscosity loss standpoint. Even M1 10W30 would be an upgrade.
 

OVERKILL

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So...... In plain English does this mean that Full Synthetic 0W-30 is a better quality oil lubrication wise, than the same oil in a 10W-30 grade?
Just depends on how it is formulated. A lot of folks think that if they go with a narrower spread, they are avoiding VII, but you don't need a lot of VII to make a cheap base thicker, and that keeps the formulation cost down. If all things were equal, then yes, going from a 0W-30 to a 10W-30 or 15W-30, within a given slate of base oils, you will incrementally reduce VII content, like shown here by Mobil:
Screen Shot 2019-02-04 at 11.31.11 PM.jpg


In reality though, they aren't blended that way. A readily available example are the Castrol 0W-40 and 5W-40 siblings. The 0W-40 is around 50% PAO, the 5W-40 has none. Why? Because Castrol could skip the PAO once they didn't have to worry about meeting the 0W-xx Winter rating, as PAO is expensive.

Here's a 5W-30 with 11.74% VII:
Screen Shot 2019-02-02 at 6.01.56 PM.jpg


Yet the PAO/Yubase blended 0W-30 here has only 5.7% and the 0W-40 has almost the same VII content as the 5W-40 shown earlier:

Screen Shot 2019-02-04 at 11.31.42 PM.jpg



So, to answer your question, "it depends". In all likelihood, the 0W-30 is going to carry dexos and maybe some other approvals that the 10W-30 won't, so you do have the added benefit of additional performance requirements placed on the 0W-30.
 

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I think this may be true for conventional oils, but historically, I don’t think any oil does worse than M1 0W30 from a viscosity loss standpoint. Even M1 10W30 would be an upgrade.
The problem is that we don't have a lot of GC data to show us that viscosity loss isn't being driven by fuel, since most of the examples on this site are from Blackstone. That's why I've been imploring people to start using Polaris/OAI or other labs that do properly measure fuel, as then it's easy to look at it and be like, well, there's only 0.5% fuel here and it has dropped into the 20-range, that's clearly mechanical shear.

Historically, we've had Paul Reshear running down the cobblestones screaming "the shear is here!" at the top of his lungs when we see a big hit in visc on a Blackstone UOA and nobody points out that the flashpoint is at 385F and that fuel may be a more significant driver.

Typically, blenders strive for a balance between visc loss and oxidation, so that those two things roughly balance each other out. You introduce fuel and that changes things.
 
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Hey guys,

Hey guys I have a 2020 Accord 2.0t the factory calls for 0w20 but I was wondering if 5w30 might be a better option? It’s also tuned for flex fuel and has a Civic Type R Turbo swap estimated power output now is around 360-380 horsepower. I was thinking tobuse 5w30 when racing it and then use 0w20 all the other times and in the winter time? Or just stick to 5w30 all year round.

I don’t run it on E85 frequently due to not many gas stations having it in my area so most of the time I’m on 93 octane. Should I stick to the factory 0w20 or switch to 5w30 for more protection ?
My oil cap says 0w-16, so i drained it and poured in 5w-30 Mobil 1 EP. I don't believe in 0w motor oil.
 
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I just checked, and I have 4 jugs of 0W-30 Mobil 1 on hand. So that's what she's going to get every 6 months, for the next 2 years. After that I'll reevaluate. Perhaps by then another miracle oil will have hit the market.
 

Bman90

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I just checked, and I have 4 jugs of 0W-30 Mobil 1 on hand. So that's what she's going to get every 6 months, for the next 2 years. After that I'll reevaluate. Perhaps by then another miracle oil will have hit the market.
Schaffers ultimate for $20/quart!
 

Shel_B

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I think this may be true for conventional oils, but historically, I don’t think any oil does worse than M1 0W30 from a viscosity loss standpoint. Even M1 10W30 would be an upgrade.
Would you say that of M1 ESP 0W-30?
 

OVERKILL

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I just checked, and I have 4 jugs of 0W-30 Mobil 1 on hand. So that's what she's going to get every 6 months, for the next 2 years. After that I'll reevaluate. Perhaps by then another miracle oil will have hit the market.
M1 0W-30 was my oil of choice for our old Expedition. It didn't consume, offered great winter performance and was readily available.
 
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What’s wrong with rat 504??
There are likely hundreds of posts on that topic here with several long and technically detailed threads. Perhaps find and read some of those for that information. Bottom line is that it’s complete and utter nonsense with no value or worth whatsoever. The website is garbage.
 
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I believe kschachn has posted numerous times that you won’t really see/need the benefit of a 0W until around -30, so you will be ok with 5w in winter
I'd go with specified cold rating and not worry much about the operating temperature one. Driving style determines the later.
 

Bman90

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I'd go with specified cold rating and not worry much about the operating temperature one. Driving style determines the later.
Redline 0w20 is my first choice because it’s 9.1 at 100C vs 8.33 on the QS Fully Synthetic.
 
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