0W20 vs 0W30

[Revving2Redline]

So you're (or anyone else here) claiming you can feel a 250+ HP engine become more "sluggish" at operating temp because the HTHS viscosity went from 2.6 to 3.2 cP? As mentioned, time for a blind HTHS test, lol.

Now this is just a thought and only that...could it be possible that the high hths would also lead to better sealing/compression and actually be less "sluggish"? Second of all, I thought that hths usually went to a lower value and miles,heat,etc went longer.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha. Not only do you not use proper oil grade representation (20W and 30W represents the WINTER rating, not the grade of oil), you completely ignore the fact that HT/HS has a more direct effect than the oil grade ever will, considering that some 20wt oils are within a few tenths of centistokes of thinner 30wt oils, nor the fact that many 30wt oils are quickly diluted into the 20wt range in GDI/TGDI usage.

Nobody whose engine calls for a 30wt oil gets to the end of their fuel-diluted OCI and puts fresh oil in and goes “boy, my engine revved so much faster with all that fuel in the crankcase!”

At least I get a good laugh from the lunacy of your posts.

considering that some 20wt oils are within a few tenths of centistokes of thinner 30wt oils, nor the fact that many 30wt oils are quickly diluted into the 20wt range in GDI/TGDI usage.

Redline 0w20 and 5w20 were 2.9 and 3.0 hths respectively.

 

[wpod]

0W-30 is better.

0W-40 is more better.

Up to a point thicker is better until it isn't , the opposite is thinner is better until it is not. Remember oil keeps the parts seperated until it doesn't.

 

[Al]

Makes zero sense to use use a 20wt. oil IMHO. I am really surprised that many very knowledgeable people here recommend it. Certainly am not throwing stones at them.

As a mechanical engineer and knowing a thing or two about lubrication and bearings I vote 30 wt all day long. Even as a trivial example I cite the Subaru FA engine. It is available in Turbo and NA. The turbo requires 30 wt the NA is 20 wt. The internals are identical. The NA puts out 205HP the Turbo 250+ HP. I think most reasonable people would use 30 weight in the NA engine. Sowhy not use it in any engine that calls for 20 wt.

But to the OP: Absolutely use 30 wt. If you live in Alaska use 0W-30 if Arizonja 10W-30. Any other location 5W-30.In most places 5W might be a better choice than 0W. 0W "could" break down a bit more.

 

[RooflessVW]

Up to a point thicker is better until it isn't , the opposite is thinner is better until it is not. Remember oil keeps the parts seperated until it doesn't.

Don't tell me what to remember

 

[FZ1]

Is it advantageous for my twin turbo V6 Infiniti Q60 to use a 0W30 instead of 0W20 ?

It gets cold out there in the Big Country so 0w-20 works fine. You could try a thin 30w in summer and see if your car "likes" it. 02

 

[mahanddeem]

Why?

Why what?
Why is it burning oil? Please call 1-800-NISSAN1 they know why it does
Why 0w20? Because there is no
valid scientifically proven fact a thicker oil or higher HTHS oil will make these engines (or vehicles) live longer. If you have a scientifically accepted academic study with positive conclusion I'd love to see.

 

[kschachn]

Why what?
Why is it burning oil? Please call 1-800-NISSAN1 they know why it does
Why 0w20? Because there is no
valid scientifically proven fact a thicker oil or higher HTHS oil will make these engines (or vehicles) live longer. If you have one teach me (us) please.

I respond only to reasonable and rational posts.

 

[mahanddeem]

I respond only to reasonable and rational posts.

You replied to my post with "Why"
If you're too sensitive or shy don't quote me again.

 

[kschachn]

Why what?
Why is it burning oil? Please call 1-800-NISSAN1 they know why it does
Why 0w20? Because there is no
valid scientifically proven fact a thicker oil or higher HTHS oil will make these engines (or vehicles) live longer. If you have a scientifically accepted academic study with positive conclusion I'd love to see.

Because this is devoid of reality, and yes I have a problem responding to nonsense.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Up to a point thicker is better until it isn't , the opposite is thinner is better until it is not. Remember oil keeps the parts seperated until it doesn't.

When is thicker not better until it isn't? ... and I'm not talking about the "W" rating, or running xW-100+. Guess those Ford engineers didn't get the memo about specifying both 5W-20 and 5W-50 in the same engine. Too thin of oil doesn't keep parts separated when the oil gets hotter than expected, thicker oil always keep parts better separated. It's just a basic law of Tribology that the film thickness between two moving parts is function of viscosity and the relative speed between the moving parts. Too thin of oil between two very slow moving parts is when parts are less separated and more wear happens - all other factors being constant of course.

 

[Slow Car Sport Mode]

0W-20 vs 0W-30... I would use whichever one is specified on the cap.

At its simplest, I believe this point is completely valid.. For those that have reservations about using one or the other, You would have to have an in-depth conversation with the people and team that made the engine and vehicle you're talking about, particularly if you feel they made the wrong choice in their oil grade pick.

 

[ZeeOSix]

0W-20 vs 0W-30... I would use whichever one is specified on the cap.

At its simplest, I believe this point is completely valid.. For those that have reservations about using one or the other, You would have to have an in-depth conversation with the people and team that made the engine and vehicle you're talking about, particularly if you feel they made the wrong choice in their oil grade pick.

First remove the CAFE factor from their brains before having a conversation with the people and team that made the engine.

 

[kschachn]

0W-20 vs 0W-30... I would use whichever one is specified on the cap.

At its simplest, I believe this point is completely valid.. For those that have reservations about using one or the other, You would have to have an in-depth conversation with the people and team that made the engine and vehicle you're talking about, particularly if you feel they made the wrong choice in their oil grade pick.

No you wouldn't. More pseudo-physics misunderstanding related to oil grade.

 

[Al]

First remove the CAFE factor from their brains before having a conversation with the people and team that made the engine.

Exactly. Back in the day that SAE/API was looking to go with 20wt. oil, the challenge was to verify the engine could go 200K milers. It could not do it. So they lowered it to 150K miles.

In my own experience my 2008 Forester would consume a quart per 400 miles at 75 mph. After switching to 40 weight the vehicle ran at least another 120K miles. My granddaughter sold it. Its probably still on the road. I am happy folks using 20 wt are getting an extra .5 mpg..I guess.

 

[The Critic]

Exactly. Back in the day that SAE/API was looking to go with 20wt. oil, the challenge was to verify the engine could go 200K milers. It could not do it. So they lowered it to 150K miles.

In my own experience my 2008 Forester would consume a quart per 400 miles at 75 mph. After switching to 40 weight the vehicle ran at least another 120K miles. My granddaughter sold it. Its probably still on the road. I am happy folks using 20 wt are getting an extra .5 mpg..I guess.

I have seen plenty of engines last > 200K with 20wt oils. My own Prius has 230K on mostly 20wt oils.

 

[wpod]

When is thicker not better until it isn't? ... and I'm not talking about the "W" rating, or running xW-100+. Guess those Ford engineers didn't get the memo about specifying both 5W-20 and 5W-50 in the same engine. Too thin of oil doesn't keep parts separated when the oil gets hotter than expected, thicker oil always keep parts better separated. It's just a basic law of Tribology that the film thickness between two moving parts is function of viscosity and the relative speed between the moving parts. Too thin of oil between two very slow moving parts is when parts are less separated and more wear happens - all other factors being constant of course.

Yes. To the point where thicker doesn't increase the protection and thinner to where the too thin doesn't keep the parts seperated. The bell curve thingie.

 

[dubber09]

Staying on the point - I'd take VW 504/507, MB229.52 0w-30 oil over any 0w-20 any time.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Yes. To the point where thicker doesn't increase the protection and thinner to where the too thin doesn't keep the parts seperated. The bell curve thingie.

And in every driving scenario, nobody knows exactly where the the ragged edge of very low or zero MOFT existed at all times between every moving part inside an engine. Obviously, more viscosity will always gives more film thickness, so it's still better due to more protection headroom.

 

[oilcandave]

I choose oil based on the worst of times...not the best of times. Its like this...oil runs a little low on the stick cause there are other things to occupy ones time. So one likes to prove their driving skills on our roads and takes a hard corner causing the oil to clear the pickup briefly. What oil would one want at these worst of times? Thick or thin?

There are other worst of times that can happen but thats one....

So many here are anti-gov but are willing to drink their coolaid when it comes to oil..