0W20 vs 0W30

[demarpaint]

0w30 FTW.

 

[kschachn]

Engineers don't say "hey we should probably use a 30W but for CAFE reasons let's use a 20W instead."

True, the engineers do what they are assigned by management. And management tells them to design an engine that will tolerate low HT/HS oils without excessive wear that would cause increased warranty claims.

Quite different than what you are representing.

 

[GraybeardQ60]

The engine is not a VQ it’s a VR30DTT. Has never used a drop of oil. The owners manual states only one oil grade. 0W20, I being an old guy am wondering if going to a 0W30 might be better for the engine in the long run. I use Motul 8100 oils and OEM large filters.

 

[PimTac]

The engine is not a VQ it’s a VR30DTT. Has never used a drop of oil. The owners manual states only one oil grade. 0W20, I being an old guy am wondering if going to a 0W30 might be better for the engine in the long run. I use Motul 8100 oils and OEM large filters.

Just use a good quality 0W-20. Change it regularly. It sounds like it has been running fine so far.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

This is very accurate. Something we've experienced on some engines when going one level higher than the book states (i.e. from 20W to 30W) is that the engine noticeably feels very sluggish, back to the thinner oil and the sluggishness is gone, and this was in 90* ambient temps. This will vary by engine design. People forget that oil isn't selected blindly, meaning the oil isn't selected after the engine is designed. Engineers don't say "hey we should probably use a 30W but for CAFE reasons let's use a 20W instead." The design is all inclusive. The trend now is to design engines around the oil itself.

Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha. Not only do you not use proper oil grade representation (20W and 30W represents the WINTER rating, not the grade of oil), you completely ignore the fact that HT/HS has a more direct effect than the oil grade ever will, considering that some 20wt oils are within a few tenths of centistokes of thinner 30wt oils, nor the fact that many 30wt oils are quickly diluted into the 20wt range in GDI/TGDI usage.

Nobody whose engine calls for a 30wt oil gets to the end of their fuel-diluted OCI and puts fresh oil in and goes “boy, my engine revved so much faster with all that fuel in the crankcase!”

At least I get a good laugh from the lunacy of your posts.

 

[mahanddeem]

The engine is not a VQ it’s a VR30DTT. Has never used a drop of oil. The owners manual states only one oil grade. 0W20, I being an old guy am wondering if going to a 0W30 might be better for the engine in the long run. I use Motul 8100 oils and OEM large filters.

Use the manual recommended 0w20. M1 EP HM 0w20 is one of the best examples with Nissan filter. I'm sure my Odyssey with 200k on nothing but 0/5w20 will go to the junk yard because of rusted body panels or shot transmission long before the engine has any issue, at least oil related.

 

[SugarMouth]

The engine is not a VQ it’s a VR30DTT. Has never used a drop of oil. The owners manual states only one oil grade. 0W20, I being an old guy am wondering if going to a 0W30 might be better for the engine in the long run. I use Motul 8100 oils and OEM large filters.

I have a hunch if the EPA and CAFE did not exist they would have a different opinion. Manufactures are telling us removing the spare tire from their vehicles reduce their carbon footprint. No spare = carbon credit. This is not a decision which benefits the owner but puts the owner/operator in a precarious position if they have a blowout in the middle of nowhere. I have to believe the same ideology applies to their decision to recommend 0W-20 in a 3.0 TT.

I'd go 0W-30 without a thought.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

I have a hunch if the EPA and CAFE did not exist they would have a different opinion. Manufactures are telling us removing the spare tire from their vehicles reduce their carbon footprint. No spare = carbon credit. This is not a decision which benefits the owner but puts the owner/operator in a precarious position if they have a blowout in the middle of nowhere. I have to believe the same ideology applies to their decision to recommend 0W-20 in a 3.0 TT.

I'd go 0W-30 without a thought.

All current roads lead us to mass transit where one has zero control over their destination nor when their travel occurs. Do with that as you should.

 

[ZeeOSix]

This is very accurate. Something we've experienced on some engines when going one level higher than the book states (i.e. from 20W to 30W) is that the engine noticeably feels very sluggish, back to the thinner oil and the sluggishness is gone, and this was in 90* ambient temps.

... no engine like a VQ35 that puts out ~250 HP is going to "feel sluggish" because of going up a grade from xW-20 to xW-30. Your lawn mower might, but not engines putting out pretty good level of HP.

 

[chris719]

All current roads lead us to mass transit where one has zero control over their destination nor when their travel occurs. Do with that as you should.

Nah. You think we could build out mass transit? We can’t even repair our roads properly. NY can barely find the cash for the MTA. It’s dead on arrival in most of the US. It’s too bad because I really wanted an east coast bullet train line in my lifetime.

 

[RooflessVW]

All current roads lead us to mass transit where one has zero control over their destination nor when their travel occurs. Do with that as you should.

Hilarious.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Hilarious.

I didn’t say the mass transit actually would work. See CA high-speed mass transit. The only thing moving there is tax dollars from the public’s pockets to preferred construction contractors.

 

[hemioiler]

... no engine like a VQ35 that puts out ~250 HP is going to "feel sluggish" because of going up a grade from xW-20 to xW-30. Your lawn mower might, but not engines putting out pretty good level of HP.

What has a bigger viscosity change:

1) my truck going from ambient air temperature of 15F (below freezing) to operating temp of 215F running 0w-30
2) my truck at operating temp of 215F but using 0w-20 vs 0w-30 (I get that it depends on exact oil formula)

 

[GraybeardQ60]

Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha. Not only do you not use proper oil grade representation (20W and 30W represents the WINTER rating, not the grade of oil), you completely ignore the fact that HT/HS has a more direct effect than the oil grade ever will, considering that some 20wt oils are within a few tenths of centistokes of thinner 30wt oils, nor the fact that many 30wt oils are quickly diluted into the 20wt range in GDI/TGDI usage.

Nobody whose engine calls for a 30wt oil gets to the end of their fuel-diluted OCI and puts fresh oil in and goes “boy, my engine revved so much faster with all that fuel in the crankcase!”

At least I get a good laugh from the lunacy of your posts.

Thank you for your insightful response. I don’t know what I would do without your demeaning comments.

 

[TiGeo]

This is very accurate. Something we've experienced on some engines when going one level higher than the book states (i.e. from 20W to 30W) is that the engine noticeably feels very sluggish, back to the thinner oil and the sluggishness is gone, and this was in 90* ambient temps. This will vary by engine design. People forget that oil isn't selected blindly, meaning the oil isn't selected after the engine is designed. Engineers don't say "hey we should probably use a 30W but for CAFE reasons let's use a 20W instead." The design is all inclusive. The trend now is to design engines around the oil itself.

These is simply no way in a blind test that anyone would notice the difference in these two oils w/r to "sluggishness" and I'm quite sure I could fool you with running a 40 and telling you it was a 20 and you'd tell me it felt less sluggish that the 30.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Bwahahahahahahahahahahaha. Not only do you not use proper oil grade representation (20W and 30W represents the WINTER rating, not the grade of oil), you completely ignore the fact that HT/HS has a more direct effect than the oil grade ever will, considering that some 20wt oils are within a few tenths of centistokes of thinner 30wt oils, nor the fact that many 30wt oils are quickly diluted into the 20wt range in GDI/TGDI usage.

Nobody whose engine calls for a 30wt oil gets to the end of their fuel-diluted OCI and puts fresh oil in and goes “boy, my engine revved so much faster with all that fuel in the crankcase!”

At least I get a good laugh from the lunacy of your posts.

Now you are just being rude.

He is correct on the basic perception of higher HTHS oil ( that he calls "W") sometimes causing sluggishness where the engine does not feel it is operating as intended - or just properly for that matter. As a professional (ret.) I have noted this MANY times over MANY cars over a period MANY years.

Note that HTHS is traditionally reported in cP not cSt.

- Ken

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Is it advantageous for my twin turbo V6 Infiniti Q60 to use a 0W30 instead of 0W20 ?

Ignore the 0W winter rating - that is completely immaterial in Texas.

I would look for an ACEA 5W30 meeting VW502 00 and MB229.5 if I owned that car/engine

from FUCHS, Ravenol or similar.

- Ken

 

[ZeeOSix]

What has a bigger viscosity change:

1) my truck going from ambient air temperature of 15F (below freezing) to operating temp of 215F running 0w-30
2) my truck at operating temp of 215F but using 0w-20 vs 0w-30 (I get that it depends on exact oil formula)

Not sure what the "bigger viscosity change" has to do with anything important. What's important is that the "W" rating is correct for the cold starting conditions and the HTHS is good enough for the max operating oil temperatures.

 

[ZeeOSix]

He is correct on the basic perception of higher HTHS oil ( that he calls "W") sometimes causing sluggishness where the engine does not feel it is operating as intended - or just properly for that matter. As a professional (ret.) I have noted this MANY times over MANY cars over a period MANY years.

So you're (or anyone else here) claiming you can feel a 250+ HP engine become more "sluggish" at operating temp because the HTHS viscosity went from 2.6 to 3.2 cP? As mentioned, time for a blind HTHS test, lol.

 

[hemioiler]

Not sure what the "bigger viscosity change" has to do with anything important. What's important is that the "W" rating is correct for the cold starting conditions and the HTHS is good enough for the max operating oil temperatures.

I asked the question because I suspect the oil goes through more of a change in viscosity when running your truck from freezing to operating temp, than it does running at operating temp between 0w-30 and 0w-20.

In other words, in order for him to notice the car being less sluggish with a 0w-20 due to a decrease in viscosity, he'd have to notice the same increase in power as his car warms up using the same engine oil.

I doubt anybody could pass a double blind study and feel the difference (in either scenario above). Confirmation bias is probably at play here.