0W20 or 5W30 or 0W30

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: GravelRoad
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
After nearly two decades of 0/5W-20 in engines, it's astounding at the level of ignorance here...


It truly is. I used Mobil 1 5w20 in 1978 in engines calling for 10-40, and not one of them suffered the fate of blowing up. It's now possible I may have used 0-20 longer than anyone here in my engines. Performing very well.


First chance you get, are you going to be using 0w-8, 0w12 or 0w16 in your current vehicles?

Keep us posted how that goes.


No, I will not keep you posted.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: tig1


No, I will not keep you posted.

LOLOL.



Originally Posted By: slybunda
my car is specced for 5w30 but i short trip it a lot, around 6 miles to work park up for 8 hours then 6 miles back home. can i use 0w20 or since my car is over 20 years old and specced for 5w30 FE oil, will i get problems?
my theory is that even the 0w-20 wont get up to temp in 6 miles so it should not thin out too much. dunno though.


If it is back spec'd for a 20 weight you should be fine; if it is NOT then I would keep with the original 30 weight. If you tell what vehicle you have then there will be more accurate help/responses.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: zeng
...and any Delvac 1 would better tolerate abuse by an aggressive teen.......in relation to most PCMO's .

It should be able to do that, too.

 

[Pelican]

Originally Posted By: FZ1

I think you should stay in 20 grade. It's a new car and Toyota engines generally don't burn. Thicker oil is harder for the engine to turn.


Spoke with the service manager and was told that I can use 0W30 but that I should stick with 0W20 because this weight has some additional additives that will make the engine run better. So I guess I'll use the recommended weight 0W20

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: Pelican
Originally Posted By: FZ1

I think you should stay in 20 grade. It's a new car and Toyota engines generally don't burn. Thicker oil is harder for the engine to turn.


Spoke with the service manager and was told that I can use 0W30 but that I should stick with 0W20 because this weight has some additional additives that will make the engine run better. So I guess I'll use the recommended weight 0W20


What a bunch of crrap! "More additives in this weight"? Really? Wow he is ignorant; I would run from that place...

 

[Danh]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Thanks.Re the tolerances I would think that thicker oil would increase the pressures in the engine and seals. Not sure that would be all good.


In North American operation, oil sump temperatures run from -30 to 250F. And in the north in winter, some sump temperatures will never get above 150F. The viscosity differences in a 20 weight oil from these temperature changes make any differ nice between a 20 and 30 weight inconsequential. The engine can handle either.

 

[FZ1]

Thanks. I can feel the difference on start up between thicker and thinner oils. Slightly more vibration and warm up time with a thicker oil. I'm gonna extract the dealer fill and put in some Pennzoil Ultra Platium 5w20.

 

[Doublehaul]

Ford changed the oil spec for the 6.2 gas engine used in the super duty from 5w20 to 5w30 in 2016. According to the head of the engine design team this was due to wear levels in some higher mileage examples.

In this case...5w30 protects better than 20wt oil. Makes one wonder about running a 40wt...

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
I'm gonna extract the dealer fill and put in some Pennzoil Ultra Platium 5w20.


In Texas? If I was in Texas my cars would never see anything below a 10w30. I can't imagine you have the slightest potential gain of anything using a 0w20 in your climate.

 

[53' Stude]

KCJEEP: you're in Missouri. I imagine it doesn't get real cold there

 

[FZ1]

The dealer fill blend has a little more vibration on start up than the Castrol Edge I ran previously and the mpg is less so there's more friction,I conclude. Got some pup to try next and no more dealer fill for me.