0W20 or 5W30 or 0W30

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Curious re the tolerances as well. Generally best to use the thinnest in grade oil that does not burn.
Clearaces. Tolerances are the allowed deviation from the speced clearance.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
tig1, do you have any used oil analysis after doing a 10k run?

No reason to. used oil analysis are pretty much a waste of $. Perhaps for checking the condition of the oil like, excess fuel, dirt. coolant.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
My 2016 Jeep fill cap is stamped 5W20. The owners manual says 5W30 is fine if 5W20 is not available as long as it meets the MS6395 spec. 5w30 it is.

There's nothing wrong with that and I might do the same --in summer. I'd definitely use 0W-20 syn in the winter if it were mine...
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
After nearly two decades of 0/5W-20 in engines, it's astounding at the level of ignorance here...


It truly is. I used Mobil 1 5w20 in 1978 in engines calling for 10-40, and not one of them suffered the fate of blowing up. It's now possible I may have used 0-20 longer than anyone here in my engines. Performing very well.


First chance you get, are you going to be using 0w-8, 0w12 or 0w16 in your current vehicles?

Keep us posted how that goes.
 
I do think that the 5w20 and 0w20 oils can run very good in a number of platforms. I ran the Castrol gold bottle 5w20 in my 08 Ford Fusion. Having stated this, I do think with the GDI, turbo boosted motors I think need a heavier viscosity oil would be a better option. Ford now is calling my for a 5w30 in their ecoboost motors. And for good reason. I do think that the cafe credits etc is a part of the whole story of lower viscosity oils has well. It is also why CVTs are starting to become more and more comom place as well.

I think that the lower operating viscosity oils have certainly proven that in the right platforms these oils can perform very well indeed. There are so many Ford Fusion cars (plus other makes and models as well) out there running past 200k miles without any motor trouble that clearly verify this. As with many things... There is truth to both sides.
 
Last edited:
The only times I question the oil spec from the manufacturer is when it's a engine that gets new oil specifications but it's the same engine as before.

For example, the Mitsubishi 6B31. The original requirement was 5w30, then shortly thereafter it was changed to 5w20. A few years ago the spec changed once again to 0w20. I cannot find any evidence that there were changes to the engine such as newer rings etc. Now if I owned a vehicle with that engine I would run 0w20 as long as there were no issues like consumption. But the question stays in the back of my head.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
If the manufacturers want to keep the carbon credits for their fleet fuel economy numbers, they must discourage use of thicker oils than what was used during the fuel economy test. Basically they get to make more money while giving the customer less choices when it comes to engine protection. It's that simple.

+1
Oil selection/recommendations by OEM's is no longer about components wear protection and/or buyer investment protection.
It's about everything else ..... what a paradigm shift..
confused.gif
 
Thanks.Re the tolerances I would think that thicker oil would increase the pressures in the engine and seals. Not sure that would be all good.
 
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Hi Pete, it's a 2017 Lexus RX 350 under warranty. As others have said I too think that it's done for fuel economy purposes.
The reason why I'd like to go to a slightly heavier oil is in case of traffic jams where you move slowly or idle for a longtime, a heavier oil would provide better protection. My 2008 Benz was using 0W40 so I'm a bit uncomfortable wit a x20 oil and would rather use a x30 or higher if possible. I thought that a 0W30 would give me the light weight at start-up and a heavier weight when the engine is hot


0w30 year around gets my vote.
 
Originally Posted By: Pelican
Hi Pete, it's a 2017 Lexus RX 350 under warranty. As others have said I too think that it's done for fuel economy purposes.
The reason why I'd like to go to a slightly heavier oil is in case of traffic jams where you move slowly or idle for a longtime, a heavier oil would provide better protection. My 2008 Benz was using 0W40 so I'm a bit uncomfortable wit a x20 oil and would rather use a x30 or higher if possible. I thought that a 0W30 would give me the light weight at start-up and a heavier weight when the engine is hot
Different strokes. I think you should stay in 20 grade. It's a new car and Toyota engines generally don't burn. Thicker oil is harder for the engine to turn.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
What is it with Canadians wanting to use thicker oil than people in the U.S.?

Come up and I'll take you shopping, and you'll find out why.
wink.gif
When I can get Delvac 1 cheaper every day than an ordinary conventional on the shelf, much less a synthetic PCMO, you'll see why some people do things a little differently.
 
my car is specced for 5w30 but i short trip it a lot, around 6 miles to work park up for 8 hours then 6 miles back home. can i use 0w20 or since my car is over 20 years old and specced for 5w30 FE oil, will i get problems?
my theory is that even the 0w-20 wont get up to temp in 6 miles so it should not thin out too much. dunno though.
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
The only times I question the oil spec from the manufacturer is when it's a engine that gets new oil specifications but it's the same engine as before.

For example, the Mitsubishi 6B31. The original requirement was 5w30, then shortly thereafter it was changed to 5w20. A few years ago the spec changed once again to 0w20. I cannot find any evidence that there were changes to the engine such as newer rings etc. Now if I owned a vehicle with that engine I would run 0w20 as long as there were no issues like consumption. But the question stays in the back of my head.


That was the case with my 08 Liberty, the engine ran on 5w30 for years with no changes to key components, then they changed the oil spec to 5W20. I ran that for a few years and decided to change my stable over to 5W30. My Pentastar engine was originally spec'd for 5W30, then 5W20 only. My owners manual gives me an option to run 5W20 or 5W30. I use 5W30.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
What is it with Canadians wanting to use thicker oil than people in the U.S.?

Come up and I'll take you shopping, and you'll find out why.
wink.gif
When I can get Delvac 1 cheaper every day than an ordinary conventional on the shelf, much less a synthetic PCMO, you'll see why some people do things a little differently.

...and any Delvac 1 would better tolerate abuse by an aggressive teen.......in relation to most PCMO's .
blush.gif
 
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
What is it with Canadians wanting to use thicker oil than people in the U.S.?

Come up and I'll take you shopping, and you'll find out why.
wink.gif
When I can get Delvac 1 cheaper every day than an ordinary conventional on the shelf, much less a synthetic PCMO, you'll see why some people do things a little differently.

...and any Delvac 1 would better tolerate abuse by an aggressive teen.......in relation to most PCMO's .
blush.gif



Good point.
 
Fuel economy, and also probably a one size fits all approach for our various climates in North America. I have used 20w50 in my hyundais for years now. A mechanic I went to told me it's ok in our hot climate. Recently I looked for an "i30" owners manual, the name the rest of the world has for the Elantra Touring Wagon, and the non-US manual blesses the use of 20w50 when your temperatures fall in their temperature scale for such a thick oil. It's irritating we don't get the same listed specs in the US, makes for a lot of misinformation, and anxiety that one's engine will magically give out if daring to go "out of spec".
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom