0w20 in the States, 5w30 everywhere else.

[jigen]

So the new Mazda 6 calls for 0w20 in the USA but in the manual it states 5w30 for Mexico and the rest of the world. What are your thoughts on this?

I would use the 0w20 for warranty purposes obviously but do you think a thicker 0w20 would benefit this car sine 5w30 is what it calls for elsewhere?

What's a "thick" 0w20?

 

[randomhero439]

Valvoline 0w-20 and Mobil 1 0w-20 is on the thicker end. You could make your own 0w-20 using Toyota 0w-20 and a little Mobil 1 0w-40

 

[Hokiefyd]

Mobil 1 0W-20 has a relatively "high" HTHS for the grade (2.7). Redline 0W-20, from what I understand, has a much higher HTHS. Your situation is the same as mine: Honda calls for 0W- or 5W-30 for our engines everywhere else in the world, but 0W- or 5W-20 in the United States. Does it likely make any difference? Probably not. But curious minds still want to know. As you can see below, I'm running a 30 in ours. And our Honda is still under warranty.

Use four quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 for the receipt/warranty tracking, and sneak an undocumented quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 in there. It'll be on the border of a 20/30 grade, and will still have very good cold start properties.

 

[randomhero439]

Assuming you have the 4-cylinder (5.3qt sump). 1qt 0w-40 + 4.3qt 0w-20 would given a super thin 0w-30. But, if you do 1qt 0w-30 + 4.3qt 0w-20 you get a super thick 0w-20

 

[HerrStig]

Why do you suppose it's different in other parts of the world.

 

[harbor]

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Why do you suppose it's different in other parts of the world.


They may not have the EPA / CAFE requirements that we have.

 

[KCJeep]

Can you use 5w20 and maintain warranty? There are a few 5w20's that crowd 5w30's but I don't know of any 0w20's I'd call particularly thick for a 20 grade.

I am restricted to 5w20 for warranty on our new KIA and am using Edge FST Titanium as it's nearly a 5w30, and a darn good oil to boot. Would that be an option for you?

 

[Tones]

Most conventional 5W-30s shear into 20 weight territory anyway, so it's not as big of a deal as you might think. That is why I use synthetic Mobil 1. It has shown to be very shear stable over the years. It use the 0W-20 and 0W-30 with excellent results.

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: harbor
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Why do you suppose it's different in other parts of the world.


They may not have the EPA / CAFE requirements that we have.
Which would suggest, then, that the US specification is being driven by something other than the best oil for the job. "We're from the government......."

 

[ARCOgraphite]

CAFE only. Period.
My honda engine hasnt exploded yet though

 

[Smokescreen]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
CAFE only. Period.
...


Yep. Its the same with my Corolla.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Mobil 1 0W-20 has a relatively "high" HTHS for the grade (2.7). Redline 0W-20, from what I understand, has a much higher HTHS. Your situation is the same as mine: Honda calls for 0W- or 5W-30 for our engines everywhere else in the world, but 0W- or 5W-20 in the United States. Does it likely make any difference? Probably not. But curious minds still want to know. As you can see below, I'm running a 30 in ours. And our Honda is still under warranty.

Use four quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 for the receipt/warranty tracking, and sneak an undocumented quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 in there. It'll be on the border of a 20/30 grade, and will still have very good cold start properties.

Nothing wrong with that!

 

[buster]

I prefer a heavier 20 grade and I prefer moving to a 30 grade once the engine is considered "high mileage".

Reality is engines can run on multiple viscosities. If you drive a bit more aggressively, or sustained high speeds, I would prefer a light 30 grade or very good synthetic 20 grade preferably on the thicker side.

 

[buster]

The Honda 2.4L i have now has 166k miles on it and runs great on MaxLife 10w30.

 

[Nick R]

I actually prefer a thinner 20wt oil. I don't believe that thicker is necessarily better. I'd rather use a shear stable 20wt than a 30wt that will shear to a 20wt anyway.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: buster
The Honda 2.4L i have now has 166k miles on it and runs great on MaxLife 10w30.


I thought you used M1 0-20 in that engine for a while? How long have you used 10-30.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
CAFE only. Period.
My honda engine hasnt exploded yet though

I used 20 wt in the 60s and 70s. No CAFE then. No engines exploded either.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
My honda engine hasnt exploded yet though

That's probably the most rigorous test 20 grades have been put through yet. If the engine survives ARCO, use whatever oil and grade he's using.

 

[buster]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: buster
The Honda 2.4L i have now has 166k miles on it and runs great on MaxLife 10w30.


I thought you used M1 0-20 in that engine for a while? How long have you used 10-30.


I have for most of the car's life. Probably 90% of the time. I'm trying a 10w30 (MaxLife) to see if it cuts down on consumption and how it handles fuel dilution.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Mobil 1 0W-20 has a relatively "high" HTHS for the grade (2.7). Redline 0W-20, from what I understand, has a much higher HTHS. Your situation is the same as mine: Honda calls for 0W- or 5W-30 for our engines everywhere else in the world, but 0W- or 5W-20 in the United States. Does it likely make any difference? Probably not. But curious minds still want to know. As you can see below, I'm running a 30 in ours. And our Honda is still under warranty.

Use four quarts of Mobil 1 0W-20 for the receipt/warranty tracking, and sneak an undocumented quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 in there. It'll be on the border of a 20/30 grade, and will still have very good cold start properties.

Nothing wrong with that!


+1 on the sneaky beef-up blend; did this in the 09 EJ forester. But as we shiver in the corner waiting for the dealer to deny our powertrain warranty - has anyone ever had warranty work "denied" for using one grade thicker proper service category oil? I Don't recall reading this happening anywhere. If the oil is relatively "clean" and mostly present in the sump and you have decent OCI records, I dont think they care, or, KNOW enough to care. Whaddya think?