actually, a belt has much less mass to accelerate. Less power loss.quote:
Originally posted by Quattro Pete:
Because it's cheaper to produce and it results in more income for the service department since you have to bring the car in to have it replaced more often than a chain. I mean, it's a win-win situation.quote:
Originally posted by G-Man II:
NB: Why ANYONE would design a belt driven OHC engine as an interference engine is totally beyond me.
0W-20 M1, 2003 Ferrari 575, 3k on oil, 5K total on car
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That's just wrong...quote:
Originally posted by Dr. T:
Here's the result of a Ferrari using 0-20....
http://www.rsportscars.com/Acentral/video/ferrari_456.mpeg
Vince
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Neat video! But this isn't going to happen to Dr. Haas. He commutes on city streets and goes easy on the throttle.
Note to self: Dear self, 20wt oil held up okay, but never get radiator serviced by WalMart techs ever again.
The oil temperature in dry sump Ferraris is measured after deaireation in the middle of the dry-sump.
The oil pressure in Ferraris is measured after the oil leaves the filter and heads towards the galleys.
Owning a Ferrari myself, I am continuously amazed at how cool the oil reamins unless I flog the living snot out of the car (like on a race track for many many minutes in a row). At a street pace, the oil temp hovers below 200dF, and a few quick blasts up through red line only move the oil temp 3-5 dF. It takes sustained hard operation to get the oil to move more than 10dF, and you simply have to flog the snot out of the whole package to get the oil real hot. Basically impossible on the street. {I could easily send the oil in my Vette up through 300dF with back-road activities that leave the oil in the Ferrari closer to 230dF}
Patman
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What year is your Corvette? My 98 Corvette is much like your Ferrari, in that it hovers around 200F and even when I drive it hard for a while it only moves up a few degrees. In fact I don't recall seeing it go over 220F yet.
My
My Vette was a 1996 Grand Sport LT4. There is a 15 mile road west from Wimberly Texas that is hilly, curvey and rather poorly paved. I could get the oil on that strech to hit 300dF if I was--quite litterally--flat to the floor for the whole duration I was not standing on the brakes (I saw well over 160MPH). Anything less than 100% effort, and the oil temps were quite reasonable.
Patman
Staff member
The LT1 and LT4 tend to run hotter oil temps than the LS1, I know that when I would change the oil in my LT1 Firebird after getting stuck in traffic, the oil would be so hot that it would often melt the sample bottles! I bet it was close to 300F.
my uncle used to own a 66 or 68 ferrari (cant remember the model but it wasnt a popular one-ill ask him soon) and he still talks about how important oil temperature was even over oil pressures (to a degree im sure). One had to ensure that a high enough temp was achieved before spirited driving commenced and once driving, the higher the temp the worse. again, there is a range. however, if one oil will lower oil temps say 20 degrees and it is still in operating range for driving then, id say go for it!
if the engine were suffering friction i would think that heat (temp) would increase. i just would not go more than say, 2K miles on it however as it MAY degrade faster than a 0w-40 Helix would.
if the engine were suffering friction i would think that heat (temp) would increase. i just would not go more than say, 2K miles on it however as it MAY degrade faster than a 0w-40 Helix would.
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