0W-20 M1, 2003 Ferrari 575, 3k on oil, 5K total on car

Dr. T · Feb 3, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
AEHaas, it appears that you are more concerned with oil temps in making a viscosity decision rather than ambient temperature. Both need to be taken in to account and balanced out.

Click to expand...

I disagree, the temperature of the oil is the main concern, not the ambient temp. If he's seeing 185F oil temps and it's 100F outside, then that car obviously has a good oil cooling setup. So it doesn't matter how hot the outside temp is, if the oil temp is that stable.

Well then I doubly disagree...

Look, the oils temps are a good consideration. Thinner oils may run a couple degrees cooler...but so what? If the oil temp is too high and is of concern....get an oil cooler...NOT switch to a thinner oil.

In other words, thinner oil provides LESS protection at temps...hence, the summer grading of 40, 50, 60 weights....why think in the reverse?

benjamming · Feb 4, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
Look, the oils temps are a good consideration. Thinner oils may run a couple degrees cooler...but so what? If the oil temp is too high and is of concern....get an oil cooler...NOT switch to a thinner oil.

In other words, thinner oil provides LESS protection at temps...hence, the summer grading of 40, 50, 60 weights....why think in the reverse?

I agree with Patman as well. If you're driving the car on the surface of the sun & your oil temp is 185°F, who cares how "thin" the oil is when you are getting the good #'s AEHaas is getting. You can't argue with the data (well actually you can). I think the key here is that he is not racing the car. Why would it take such a "thick" viscosity just driving around town?

Ken4 · Feb 4, 2005

Good show mate for using a 20wt on a Ferrari!

I live in a hot and humid tropical climate and I also have no problems with a 20wt on my Toyota. I have done constant high speed driving and high load (steep gradient) driving. My oil temps reach 115C constant. Wear is virtually no different from a 30 or 40wt.

Do Ferraris come with factory oil temp gauge?

AEHaas · Feb 4, 2005

Oil temperatures is very important in racing cars, yes Ferraris all come with oil temperature gauges. I never look at the water temperature.

aehaas

ex_MGB · Feb 4, 2005

Nothing for it but to enter the Cannonball Canada Run this September. Find another 575, let him use the Shell Helix in grade and you with the M1 0W-20. End of race, take samples and compare.

Should be a few spots here and there where you'll be able to stretch your Ferrari's legs some.

oldman · Feb 4, 2005

I received an e-mail a few months ago for some road rally's in different parts of the world. The entry fee was 20k I think. They had different races and when the time got closer they would tell you where it was going to be held. I just did not have the time.

Dr. T · Feb 4, 2005

Here's the result of a Ferrari using 0-20....

http://www.rsportscars.com/Acentral/video/ferrari_456.mpeg

G-MAN · Feb 4, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
Here's the result of a Ferrari using 0-20....

http://www.rsportscars.com/Acentral/video/ferrari_456.mpeg

What in the world happened? The engine blew while it was decelerating and almost at a stop. What did he do, shut the ignition off and snap one of the timing chains? I mean, I really didn't see anything in that run that should make a Ferrari blow up.

AEHaas · Feb 5, 2005

Ferraris have timing belts, not chains. If one goes it would be a catastrophic engine rupture. They used to have us replace them every 5 years. Now they are saying to replace them every 3 years just to be sure. That would be my guess.

aehaas

G-MAN · Feb 5, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by AEHaas:
Ferraris have timing belts, not chains. If one goes it would be a catastrophic engine rupture. They used to have us replace them every 5 years. Now they are saying to replace them every 3 years just to be sure. That would be my guess.

Yeah, I snuck that little inaccuracy in there to see how you'd respond.

mechtech · Feb 5, 2005

Running at a steady 8000 RPMs in first or second gear is NOT a good way to break your engine in. Full throttle at mid range will have the most cylinder pressure to push the rings out and help seat them [if it's necessary].
I'd rather see you drive it hard, than have that light load, high RPM thing going.

AEHaas · Feb 7, 2005

The total car milage is approaching 6 k. I have to order another set of tires - love to burn them. Oil milage will be 4 k at 6,300. The original test was at 3 k oil miles. ?Test again now or after another 1 or 2 k?

aehaas

Dr. T · Feb 9, 2005

My vote goes to 5k

G-MAN · Feb 9, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by AEHaas:
Ferraris have timing belts, not chains. If one goes it would be a catastrophic engine rupture. They used to have us replace them every 5 years. Now they are saying to replace them every 3 years just to be sure. That would be my guess.

I take it that Ferrari engines are "interference" engines just like the 3.5 in my Chrysler? (Meaning that if the belt breaks the pistons will come in contact with the valves that are left open.)

NB: Why ANYONE would design a belt driven OHC engine as an interference engine is totally beyond me.

Pablo · Feb 9, 2005

quote:

Why ANYONE would design a belt driven OHC engine as an interference engine is totally beyond me.

I agree.
There are enough of them, including the Al block Volvo.....and yes IT has happened.....(yet some folks are 50K+ miles past the scheduled change, living on borrowed time)

G-MAN · Feb 9, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:

quote:

Why ANYONE would design a belt driven OHC engine as an interference engine is totally beyond me.

Click to expand...

I agree.
There are enough of them, including the Al block Volvo.....and yes IT has happened.....(yet some folks are 50K+ miles past the scheduled change, living on borrowed time)

The extended warranty on my Chrysler expires at 80,000 miles and that's the day it will go in the shop for a timing belt replacement.

jason07-1zzfe · Feb 9, 2005

I'd be hesitant to go any longer due to the fuel loading.

I hate timing belts also. I have to change mine again. It's only been about 2yrs. This will be the last time I do it.

Quattro Pete · Feb 9, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by G-Man II:
NB: Why ANYONE would design a belt driven OHC engine as an interference engine is totally beyond me.

Because it's cheaper to produce and it results in more income for the service department since you have to bring the car in to have it replaced more often than a chain. I mean, it's a win-win situation.

ekpolk · Feb 10, 2005

quote:

Originally posted by kenw:

quote:

Originally posted by Quattro Pete:

quote:

Originally posted by G-Man II:
NB: Why ANYONE would design a belt driven OHC engine as an interference engine is totally beyond me.

Click to expand...

Because it's cheaper to produce and it results in more income for the service department since you have to bring the car in to have it replaced more often than a chain. I mean, it's a win-win situation.

Click to expand...

actually, a belt has much less mass to accelerate. Less power loss.

I can't imagine that the added weight of a timing chain is that meaningful, at least in normal use of an engine. On the other hand, when a timing belt gives way and breaks, the power loss is quite noticeable (and quite likely permanent in an interference engine). Although I can occasionally hear a moment or two of chain rattle while the tensioner pressurizes (a little crude sounding), I'll gladly take that in exchange for the security of a metal chain.

kenw · Feb 10, 2005

it's not the "weight" of the chain, it's the inertial mass.

0W-20 M1, 2003 Ferrari 575, 3k on oil, 5K total on car

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