09' Camry oil psi sender or....

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Good evening folks. I went out this morning, checked all 4 tires, and checked oil. All was well. I ran to the local Foodland a hour ago which is a 10 minute drive. On way back home, as i was going down hill and about to turn left into my parking area, the oil lamp came on for a second and went right out. As i pulled in and parked oil lamp came on for second if that and went out.

I have no oil leaks at all and am still running RK 5w30 blend. Wondering if the oil psi sender is on its way out or....?
 
Check the oil level?
I mean, you did before the 10 minute trip.... did you maybe hit something in the road?

Maybe it is the sender.
 
Originally Posted by Linctex
Check the oil level?
I mean, you did before the 10 minute trip.... did you maybe hit something in the road?

Maybe it is the sender.


I checked the oil b fore the 10 minute trip. I didn't hit anything in the street.
 
The oil pressure sender on my 95 Camry failed with a no light condition, but I suppose it could fail with a false light on condition.

A few years later on a new sender, the light started to flicker right before the engine shat the bed.

I'd check the oil, change the filter, then maybe pull the sensor and make sure that there's nothing blocking it.
 
Originally Posted by JMJNet
Did you check the oil again after the trip when the light was on?


After I got home after the 10~ drive, I waited a few minutes and oil level is in the proper range. What's odd is it didn't do this on a 800+ mile round trip over the holiday.
 
So, to update thread; i changed oil to HK 10w30 HDEO last night while at friends shop with lift. Checked oil after work and sender area is bone dry. Maybe thicker oil will help.

What say the BITOG faithful
 
If you need thicker oil to keep the pressure sensor from turning light on you have bigger issues. Put a mechanical gauge on it with the proper viscosity oil and see what you have.
 
Originally Posted by mattd
If you need thicker oil to keep the pressure sensor from turning light on you have bigger issues. Put a mechanical gauge on it with the proper viscosity oil and see what you have.


The oil lamp/light wasn't on at all today driving to or from work.

I have some 5w20 oil also
 
Check the pressure with a mechanical gauge with what it says on the oil cap,both hot and cold engine. That will tell you if it's a sender or a mechanical issue.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
So, to update thread; i changed oil to HK 10w30 HDEO last night while at friends shop with lift. Checked oil after work and sender area is bone dry. Maybe thicker oil will help.

What say the BITOG faithful


Did you change the filter when you changed the oil?
 
Originally Posted by JamesBond
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
So, to update thread; i changed oil to HK 10w30 HDEO last night while at friends shop with lift. Checked oil after work and sender area is bone dry. Maybe thicker oil will help.

What say the BITOG faithful


Did you change the filter when you changed the oil?



Yup, put on a Bosch D+ that Subyrubieroo sent me.
 
Originally Posted by mattd
If you need thicker oil to keep the pressure sensor from turning light on you have bigger issues. Put a mechanical gauge on it with the proper viscosity oil and see what you have.

FWIW, about 5-ish years ago I had the oil pressure light come on in my Cavalier at hot idle after sitting in traffic for a long time with the A/C on when it was 105-110 degrees out with the factory recommended 5w30. I don't know if it was a fluke but I've been putting 5w-40 in it ever since and I've never seen the oil light again, and that was over 40,000 miles ago. Still runs perfect, doesn't burn any oil.
 
Originally Posted by mattd
Check the pressure with a mechanical gauge with what it says on the oil cap,both hot and cold engine. That will tell you if it's a sender or a mechanical issue.


+1.
At idle, the oil pressure should be > 4.3 psi. At 3000 rpm, it needs to be between 24 psi - 44 psi. Hope this helps.

Note: the oil pressure readings should be taken on an engine that is fully warmed-up. The repair manual also assumes that you are using 5W-20 or 0W-20 engine oil.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by mattd
Check the pressure with a mechanical gauge with what it says on the oil cap,both hot and cold engine. That will tell you if it's a sender or a mechanical issue.


+1.
At idle, the oil pressure should be > 4.3 psi. At 3000 rpm, it needs to be between 24 psi - 44 psi. Hope this helps.

Note: the oil pressure readings should be taken on an engine that is fully warmed-up. The repair manual also assumes that you are using 5W-20 or 0W-20 engine oil.



Ok, thanks folks. Crazy thing is that when it did this it was going downhill and making a kinda sharp turn.

Anyone have a rec for a oil psi gage? Thanks in advance
 
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Originally Posted by The Critic
Originally Posted by mattd
Check the pressure with a mechanical gauge with what it says on the oil cap,both hot and cold engine. That will tell you if it's a sender or a mechanical issue.


+1.
At idle, the oil pressure should be > 4.3 psi. At 3000 rpm, it needs to be between 24 psi - 44 psi. Hope this helps.

Note: the oil pressure readings should be taken on an engine that is fully warmed-up. The repair manual also assumes that you are using 5W-20 or 0W-20 engine oil.



Ok, thanks folks. Crazy thing is that when it did this it was going downhill and making a kinda sharp turn.

Anyone have a rec for a oil psi gage? Thanks in advance

I think mine is from HF. I rarely use it and it has worked fine for the few times that it has been needed.
 
Originally Posted by 53' Stude
Crazy thing is that when it did this it was going downhill and making a kinda sharp turn.


Did you try and repeat this same turn down hill to see if it happens again?
 
Last edited:
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