I forget the exact amount off the top of my head, but he did timing belt, tensioner, water pump, and adjusted valves (parts and labor) for around $600. I got a great, honest mechanic that's been in biz for himself for about 30 years, only charges $55/hr for labor, and I can bring my own parts with zero complaints (or penalties).
Yep- definitely a trend.
Thank you-I dunno how/why so many ppl have a problem with these cars. Mine has 100K on it and absolutely flawless. I keep an eye on the oil level and pcv valve ( like I do for any car). Do 4-5K changes on it. Except for a set of rear OE struts, that's it.
Perks of your location! Cost of an Aisin kit, valve cover gaskets, plugs and coolant is around $300. If he charged you anywhere near $300 for that job, that is an incredible price.
The issues usually do not arise until high mileage, usually after 150K. Since you are approaching 100k and it is time for the valve adjustment, take some pictures of your valvetrain and carefully check for any cam scoring.
You might need to start wrenching yourself in 4 years.Critic, yeah, he's an old-school indie that does the right thing. Plus his building has been paid off for probably 20 years, so he doesn't have $$$ overhead costs. He's got about 4 years left til retirement, which will likely be about the last gasoline cars that liberals will let us buy, so it works out
Thank you for the heads up-much appreciated.
"Occasionally, they both line up" that's the way it usually is for us! LOL
Put an 85 cent 90 ohm resistor on the temp sensor and problem solved. 150K miles on my van, never an engine mount replaced and plugs looked good when replaced at 100K.
Thanks- I was gonna do that but there are available inexpensive kits that let you dial in precisely what one needs based on driving and climate conditions.
Usually it is $1k-$1200 for timing belt, water pump, drive belt, hydraulic tensioner. Spark Plugs and Valve adjustment are an extra $6-$800.
My wife's aunt lives next door to us and had that same year. She sold it to another family member as-is two years ago with 120K on conventional (don't recall the viscosity) and it now has 150K...still on conventional and zero issues. Like Trav and other's have mentioned, that VCM really does a number on these engines.
Several Honda's have popped up on reddit with a million miles. Usually on their second engine but still. Why do people jump to conclusions when there is a thread about an issue with a Honda engine and say "Welp, there goes their reliability". My dads CRV hit 350K before the frame rusted out from the northeast weather. Do regular maintenance on a Honda and it will last a long time.
I understand my wording might have come across as hyperbolic, but it still holds weight. It's percentages, not outliers. Toyota had engines that would sludge up easily on a higher percentage than normal. But there were still people getting 400-500K out of their 1mzfe engines. Toyota had lawsuits levied against them because of it and was forced to take action.
Kit's are $80-150. The one with an adjustable resistor is nice for warmer weather climates so you can turn up the resistance a bit. It's not a "perfect" fix but should disable VCM 95% of the time. On really hot summer days I might see the ECO light come on once if I'm on back roads but almost never on the highway. Having some electronics and soldering skills, I just soldered in a resistor for $1. If it goes bad I can replace it easy. For the layman I recommend the kit.
Define what is allowed. If you are allowed to replace the engine once, trans thrice, and every other driveline component a few times, then everything can go 500k, right?
Thanks-
