'06 Civic Stripped Oil Drain Plug

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Originally Posted By: The Critic
New Genuine Honda oil pan is $108 shipped:

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2006/HO...agramCallOut=15

Just get a new oil pan and be sure to use a new drain plug washer at each oil change from now on. Torque spec should be 29 ft-lbs, which is actually quite tight.


Thank you Critic!

All this talk of rubber expanding plugs and oversize plugs is silly. Get a new pan, spend an afternoon swapping it out and rest well knowing the job is done correctly.
 
Rubber plugs have a habit of failing at the worst possible time.

The only issue I see with simply replacing the pan is the potential (since I don't know what it looks like under these cars) for things to be in the way. Lots of cars have cross-braces, steering racks, all sorts of things that are in the way of dropping the pan. Sort of like engine jobs that are $900 in labor for a $5 gasket, the cost of the pan could be irrelevant.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
All this talk of rubber expanding plugs and oversize plugs is silly

Do you know this guys capabilities or his tool box?
Come over and swap a W body 3.8 or a Northstar and lots of other pans out and then tell me how silly it is.
10hrs on a N* under ideal conditions with the tools and a lift double that on your back.

Swapping the pan is fine if its easy enough to get at but there is nothing wrong with an oversize piggyback plug or re thread job if its done properly.
The correct repair depends on a lot of things, if its tight, doesn't leak and you can change the oil its correct.

Its easy to armchair repairs but consider the job not just the price of the pan. what happens if the exhaust manifold studs break then you have the next fiasco ditto lots of other things that can and do go sideways on a job like this.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
All this talk of rubber expanding plugs and oversize plugs is silly

Do you know this guys capabilities or his tool box?
Come over and swap a W body 3.8 or a Northstar and lots of other pans out and then tell me how silly it is.
10hrs on a N* under ideal conditions with the tools and a lift double that on your back.

Swapping the pan is fine if its easy enough to get at but there is nothing wrong with an oversize piggyback plug or re thread job if its done properly.
The correct repair depends on a lot of things, if its tight, doesn't leak and you can change the oil its correct.

Its easy to armchair repairs but consider the job not just the price of the pan. what happens if the exhaust manifold studs break then you have the next fiasco ditto lots of other things that can and do go sideways on a job like this.


+1000 Trav!

Too many on here like to use big words like "proper" and "professional" without even realizing how much work some of those seemingly "easy" jobs can be and if you have to deal with rusted hardware things can get ugly real fast.

I agree that the rubber expanding gasket thingy is a gamble, but other methods of fixing this problem mentioned, like the helicoil, self-tapping drain plug or a full re-tap job with the next size up oil plug, are all good and viable options that, if done right, will be just as good as the original plug.
 
I don't think the problem is the price for the part of a new oil pan. It's often the process involved removing the oil pan. Admittedly, I don't know the civic well. I have a 03 CRV and a 03 Element, and you need to partially drop the subframe to pull the oil pan out, which is a bigger pain than it should be to replace an oil pan.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
All this talk of rubber expanding plugs and oversize plugs is silly

Do you know this guys capabilities or his tool box?
Come over and swap a W body 3.8 or a Northstar and lots of other pans out and then tell me how silly it is.
10hrs on a N* under ideal conditions with the tools and a lift double that on your back.

Swapping the pan is fine if its easy enough to get at but there is nothing wrong with an oversize piggyback plug or re thread job if its done properly.
The correct repair depends on a lot of things, if its tight, doesn't leak and you can change the oil its correct.

Its easy to armchair repairs but consider the job not just the price of the pan. what happens if the exhaust manifold studs break then you have the next fiasco ditto lots of other things that can and do go sideways on a job like this.


Trav, you're right about me not knowing his skill level or how well prepared he is tool wise.

There are several forum members that have no business simply changing their own oil, let alone anything more complicated and yet they ask for and receive all sorts of advice. I recommended what felt was the best course (and I would do it to my own car too) and you recommended what you felt was the best course of action - and would likely practice what you preach. It's up to the o.p. to decide what's right for him. I did overstress my opinion, and even though I feel it's the correct repair, I shouldn't have stated it like I did.

You needn't lecture me about oil pans on W bodies (I've done several too) or the Northstar engine... I've had the unfortunate luck to have had to do one of those as well... On stands, on my back.
 
I just did a Timesert on my Miata on my racecar and it works very well. I bought a kit from a forum member that been used minus one sert.
 
Ajchien. - Thank you for reminding me about Eric The Car Guy... His method of using a longer M14 bolt worked like an absolute charm...! This morning I picked up a Piggyback drain plug and I believe that would have worked (cost $3) but then read your post and ran out to the hardware store, picked up a longer bolt and it slid right in. There was enough thread left on the inner pan to make a good grab.

Torqued it down to 29 lbs and will keep an eye on it and some paper underneath.

Replacing the pan, although a very good remedy, involves removing a portion of the exhaust system which I would do - but only as a last resort.

The Time Sert is another good fix but $100+ for a glorified tap? If I was made of money, maybe. And I still would concerned about some shavings floating around

The rubber plug might have worked better had I been able to find one that was longer when compressed...? Purely a temporary fix but good to know in an emergency situation

You guys brought out the best of BITOG... . Everyone was very helpful and thoughtful and I greatly appreciate all of your input.

I might actually sleep tonight and I know my daughter will be thrilled to return the minivan and get her Coupe back

Again, thank you all very much...
 
Trav... Although a different brand, that is exactly what I bought this morning and I'm sure it would have worked fine...

Keeping right between my oil filter wrench and torque wrench as a constant reminder
 
Originally Posted By: SigQAEngineer
Be very careful with those Honda drain plugs from now on, because the oil pan is most likely aluminum so proper torque is critical.

Steel. Typically a pretty soft steel though. Honda sells 14mm aluminum crush washers that are fairly thick compared to most copper washers. I have tons of those I bought cheap years ago for my Integra. If you use these, then it's easy to get a good seal without over-torquing. I just stored them for years after I signed over my Integra to the insurance company, but they came in handy again when my wife's Civic came along with her. They're good for a lot of stuff, including Honda manual and auto transmission drain bolts.

I'm not sure how much they sell for now, but I remember paying as little as 25 cents each for 20. Even at dealers they were cheap. I remember getting sealed packs of 5 or 10 at a Honda dealer parts dept, and they had the Honda Motorcycle winged logo on the bag.
 
Originally Posted By: Finz
Ajchien. - Thank you for reminding me about Eric The Car Guy... His method of using a longer M14 bolt worked like an absolute charm...!...

Curious if you went through the minor bolt cutting and machining process eric did, or just installed as is?

Glad it worked out for you and saved some $$$$$.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Originally Posted By: Finz
Ajchien. - Thank you for reminding me about Eric The Car Guy... His method of using a longer M14 bolt worked like an absolute charm...!...

Curious if you went through the minor bolt cutting and machining process eric did, or just installed as is?

Glad it worked out for you and saved some $$$$$.


Sayjac

The hardware store had a bolt in stock that was exactly twice the length... 25mm I think . When I got home, I just rounded the edge on a grinder - this way, I had the tip in there before thread contact was made

I agreed with everyones approach toward a fix but figured I'd start with the cheapest And work my up the the ladder to the more costly ones (not to mention more involved)

I couldn't be happier with the way it worked out - should have bought a lottery ticket after the test drive....!
 
Had the same problem with my 91 Honda Civic hatchback. Cross threaded the oil pan years ago and the oversized drain bolt worked for many many years until recently. Oil Pan drain opening started to leak oil again and I finally decided to use my Time Sert kit that I had used previously to repair a cross threaded spark plug opening on a 1970 Mercedes. The thread pitch on my Time sert kit(M14x1.25) did not match the oil pan bolt(1.5 pitch) or oil pan opening so I tapped the drain pan hole anyway, no choice. I ordered 2 Time Sert inserts(M14x1.25x9.4mm) and installed one. My spark plug hole inserts (19mm) could have been used but I instead ordered the shorter ones so to allow the oil to completely drain out and not get trapped inside the oil pan. The 9.4mm inserts are short and allow the oil to completely drain out. Using a Time sert tap without experience is not a good idea...YOU MUST align the tap properly. If you don't go in straight you will have problems with the insert not sitting flush on the outside of the oil pan which then will not allow the drain bolt to completely close in flush. You will then have the same oil leak but now will encounter a more difficult fix. Purchasing a new oil pan just because of a cross threaded oil drain thread is not a good idea. You will eventually encounter the same problem down the line regardless of proper torque. I would only buy a new pan if there are other oil leaks due to a damaged and deformed oil pan. The oil pan will eventually start to leak at the pan bolts that are used to secure the pan to the engine. Matter of fact, unless you already own a time sert kit, don't buy one unless you suspect that you will eventually damage your spark plug threads. Just remember that the spark plug thread pitch may or may not have the same thread pitch as the drain pan threads. If you do one day use an insert be sure to apply some locktite on the outside of the insert. I was actually contemplating on using a Fumoto oil drain valve but again my worry is that it will be too long when installed and will cause oil or possibly metal shavings to be trapped inside the pan. http://www.qwikvalve.com/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=search-fumoto

The Eco plug seems like a very good choice but I have no experience with it. Might just purchase one and hold for back up..

Glad it worked out for you
 
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