04 SE-R SpecV, 4900mile UOA after racing events

[MrWideTires]

Oil: 4qts M1 0W30, & 1qt M1 0W40
Motor: QR25, modified, runs rich, head is cracked, done 2 autocross events on this oil.

Now it has Rotella 5W40

 

[buster]

In terms of UOA #'s, the SN M1 is showing lower wear than the SM version. Good results.

 

[REDDOG]

Originally Posted By: buster
In terms of UOA #'s, the SN M1 is showing lower wear than the SM version. Good results.


+1

 

[fdcg27]

Looks really good.
Do you plan to UOA the T6?
It would be an interesting comparison.
If I had an engine (cracked head?) that I had run pretty hard that did this well on an oil, I think I'd continue using that oil.

 

[chubbs1]

Originally Posted By: buster
In terms of UOA #'s, the SN M1 is showing lower wear than the SM version. Good results.



What makes you think this is the SN version? Looks like the SM additive pack. Calcium is to high, magnesium is too low.

Maybe the OP could clarify?

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Originally Posted By: buster
In terms of UOA #'s, the SN M1 is showing lower wear than the SM version. Good results.



What makes you think this is the SN version? Looks like the SM additive pack. Calcium is to high, magnesium is too low.


Exactly my thoughts. This was the SM version.

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Looks really good.
Do you plan to UOA the T6?
It would be an interesting comparison.
If I had an engine (cracked head?) that I had run pretty hard that did this well on an oil, I think I'd continue using that oil.


I'm wanna test how well it does with rotella, and then M1 0w40, then make a final decision!

This uoa was a mix of 4 quarts of 0w30 and 1 quart of 0w40

 

[fdcg27]

My bad.
Maybe I should learn how to read?
AFE is not nearly as robust as 0W-40, so this is a very good result for the oils used.
The T6 is going to be too thick, and straight M1 0W-40 might be as well.
I'd bet that both will yield good UOAs, though.
A run of M1 0w30 by itself would be interesting.
How do you know that you have a cracked head?
You sure can't tell from this UOA.

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
My bad.
Maybe I should learn how to read?
AFE is not nearly as robust as 0W-40, so this is a very good result for the oils used.
The T6 is going to be too thick, and straight M1 0W-40 might be as well.
I'd bet that both will yield good UOAs, though.
A run of M1 0w30 by itself would be interesting.
How do you know that you have a cracked head?
You sure can't tell from this UOA.


One day after over-revving the snot out of it at the track, it started showing oil in the coolant, changed the coolant and added Subaru's coolant conditioner to try to do a band-aid fix and it worked, so far no problems!
I'm pretty sure it's a cracked head, but obviously not 100%.
Also it never goes past 194*F

 

[buster]

You may be right. Mg is a bit low for it to be SN.

 

[Ayrton]

0w40 SN has virtually no Magnesium, so maybe that is affecting it?

 

[CATERHAM]

Nice report.
Don't know why you're now using the much heavier T6.
This` report give no indication that a heavier all is necessary or desired.
I presume you don't have an oil pressure gauge.

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Nice report.
Don't know why you're now using the much heavier T6.
This` report give no indication that a heavier all is necessary or desired.
I presume you don't have an oil pressure gauge.


My engine has bucket lifters (like flat tappets), a bit of fuel dilution from the looks of it, and a Florida summer coming up.
Wish I had a oil pressure gauge..

I'm just testing the RT6 to see the results, going to send in a sample also.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Odds are you're losing HP to that oil. In my old Neon R/T just changing from a 40w to a 30w was worth about 4-6 hp at 7600 rpm.

BTW, how do you over rev unless you muck up a downshift? Even the old track rat neon had a rev limiter, stock was 7300.

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Odds are you're losing HP to that oil. In my old Neon R/T just changing from a 40w to a 30w was worth about 4-6 hp at 7600 rpm.

BTW, how do you over rev unless you muck up a downshift? Even the old track rat neon had a rev limiter, stock was 7300.


ECU can be reflashed, stock redline is 6200rpm due to a rod-to-stroke ratio of 1.43:1

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Odds are you're losing HP to that oil. In my old Neon R/T just changing from a 40w to a 30w was worth about 4-6 hp at 7600 rpm.

BTW, how do you over rev unless you muck up a downshift? Even the old track rat neon had a rev limiter, stock was 7300.


ECU can be reflashed, stock redline is 6200rpm due to a rod-to-stroke ratio of 1.43:1


The K24 has an R/S ratio of 1.54 (152mm rod, 99mm stroke) and the factory redline was up to 7,600rpm (K24A2).

Not much better

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Odds are you're losing HP to that oil. In my old Neon R/T just changing from a 40w to a 30w was worth about 4-6 hp at 7600 rpm.

BTW, how do you over rev unless you muck up a downshift? Even the old track rat neon had a rev limiter, stock was 7300.


ECU can be reflashed, stock redline is 6200rpm due to a rod-to-stroke ratio of 1.43:1


The K24 has an R/S ratio of 1.54 (152mm rod, 99mm stroke) and the factory redline was up to 7,600rpm (K24A2).

Not much better

Yeah but the QR25 has the lowest rod-to-stroke ratio of any production engine. Also my engine was revved past 8000rpm several times, wayyy past the 6200rpm redline, I didn't expect this engine to live very long after using it for drag and rally! It even has the balance shafts removed and solid mounts.

But 130k miles later it doesn't even burn a drop of oil! It has wayyy surpassed my expectations and still continues to deliver excellent UOAs!

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Odds are you're losing HP to that oil. In my old Neon R/T just changing from a 40w to a 30w was worth about 4-6 hp at 7600 rpm.

BTW, how do you over rev unless you muck up a downshift? Even the old track rat neon had a rev limiter, stock was 7300.


ECU can be reflashed, stock redline is 6200rpm due to a rod-to-stroke ratio of 1.43:1


The K24 has an R/S ratio of 1.54 (152mm rod, 99mm stroke) and the factory redline was up to 7,600rpm (K24A2).

Not much better

Yeah but the QR25 has the lowest rod-to-stroke ratio of any production engine. Also my engine was revved past 8000rpm several times, wayyy past the 6200rpm redline, I didn't expect this engine to live very long after using it for drag and rally! It even has the balance shafts removed and solid mounts.

But 130k miles later it doesn't even burn a drop of oil! It has wayyy surpassed my expectations and still continues to deliver excellent UOAs!


I think GM's 400SB had a lower R/S ratio, but I could be wrong. It has been many years since I've done the math

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


I think GM's 400SB had a lower R/S ratio, but I could be wrong. It has been many years since I've done the math

1.48:1, still a bit better than the QR25's 1.43:1

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL


I think GM's 400SB had a lower R/S ratio, but I could be wrong. It has been many years since I've done the math

1.48:1, still a bit better than the QR25's 1.43:1


Dear Jesus! LOL!