At the end of this month last year I bought a brand new F150, it now has 35k miles on it. About 2 years ago I moved a little further away from work so right now from my driveway to the work parking lot is 65 miles exactly. So I've been looking at some somewhat older lower mileage cars to buy to keep some of the miles off the truck. All the civics/accords/corollas seem to be way over priced...if you can find the rare one that doesn't already have 200k miles on it..then with the hondas I would have to worry about the timing belt and I don't really want to get into that. So then I stumbled across this very nice 03 buick lesabre with only 70k miles and the car fax shows frequent oil changes, a coolant flush and they just changed the spark plugs. It's at a buick dealership and I believe it is prob a little over priced ($5300) and I dunno how much they will budge on it. So my question is, how will this near 20 year old low mileage car respond to all of a sudden being driven 30k miles a year (all highway btw/zero stop and go) I figure if I can get at least 2 to 3 years out of it it should be a win.
03 lesabre for hwy cruiser?
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I had a 95 lesabre and it was hands down the BEST highway machine I've ever had. I regularly got 30mpg and it was unbelievably comfortable. This is what these big boats were designed for. It was also killer in the snow with that big iron v6 up front. But I suppose that isn't a concern in New Orleans.
The biggest concern is the lower intake manifold gaskets on those series 2 3.8's.
The biggest concern is the lower intake manifold gaskets on those series 2 3.8's.
what engine/trans combo does it have? In the $5k price range you have a few options, I prefer private party transactions so maybe look on Craigslist for a great deal. American cars that have been well maintained can be found for $5k and imho provide the best value.
It'll go or it'll blow. Mostly likely it'll just be nickel and dime problems. I mean, despite low miles, it's older, and things do age out.
I'd run a spreadsheet and see what this will cost you, and if it really saves you money (or not). It's one thing if you want something more comfortable, that is something you can't put a number to--but the rest of the time, one can run the numbers to see if the total money out of pocket is actually less with something that gets better mpg. Very often it doesn't make sense, at least for most people.
At 30k I suspect it could work in your favor. Less depreciation on the truck, better mpg in the car. It might work out--that's going off of what I did, similar situation, where I have a truck for the weekend and the car for the week. BUT in my case it was just breaking even. 32k/year, with 22-25k on the car at 30mpg and 5-10k per year on the truck at 17mpg. Fuel savings on the car paid for the additional insurance and registration; luckily I was able to snag the car pretty cheaply else it really wouldn't have been financially worth it.
In my case I'm willing to put up with a fair amount of noises and cosmetic issues in return for having two vehicles (a spare in case one breaks).
I'd run a spreadsheet and see what this will cost you, and if it really saves you money (or not). It's one thing if you want something more comfortable, that is something you can't put a number to--but the rest of the time, one can run the numbers to see if the total money out of pocket is actually less with something that gets better mpg. Very often it doesn't make sense, at least for most people.
At 30k I suspect it could work in your favor. Less depreciation on the truck, better mpg in the car. It might work out--that's going off of what I did, similar situation, where I have a truck for the weekend and the car for the week. BUT in my case it was just breaking even. 32k/year, with 22-25k on the car at 30mpg and 5-10k per year on the truck at 17mpg. Fuel savings on the car paid for the additional insurance and registration; luckily I was able to snag the car pretty cheaply else it really wouldn't have been financially worth it.
In my case I'm willing to put up with a fair amount of noises and cosmetic issues in return for having two vehicles (a spare in case one breaks).
I'd have the dealership show you the readout for any codes present. ABS sensors would be my biggest concern here. If nothing shows up, I think it will be a great car for you.
NADAretail value in KC area is $3325. One is selling in Fremont NE, with 54000 miles for $7995. Needless to say, it hasn't sold yet.
Those were great cars but it hasn't been driven enough IMO it will likely be troublesome.
Every person I know that has snagged an older low mileage cream puff has had troubles with them, not typical of the model in general.
Every person I know that has snagged an older low mileage cream puff has had troubles with them, not typical of the model in general.
I don't see it as a cost saving measure all that much. I get 22/23 mpg in the truck, so even if the beater would get 30, it's not really that big of a jump. I can't imagine insurance being all that much on it either. I would like this truck to last me a while and not be completely worthless while I'm still paying on it. Plus I work at an oil refinery and I have to wash the truck after every set to get all the contamination and fall out off so the paint doesn't turn to ****.
I deff don't want this thing to nickel and dime me, and if it looks like it's heading that way I would just dump it.
I noticed this on the car fax back in January of 2017 at 62k miles
Vehicle serviced
- Evaporative emissions vent purge valve replaced
- Heater control valve replaced
- Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed
I need to go look at it and see how she looks/runs.
My Mom sold this exact one-owner car with same miles a few years ago. Great car, 30 mpg achievable and reliable. Never replaced the battery because it was under the back seat away from engine heat. The gas tank fuel gauge sending unit went bad on it, which is common but a DIY repair. Mechanic on Youtube said it was one of the best values. I'd try to talk them down some because you'll have to do some deferred maintenance.
My mother had one and I drove it from Ft. Lauderdale to NC several times. Very comfortable and reliable. Got almost 30 mpg.
Here's a story about an 03 LeSabre with ridiculous mileage;
Here's a story about an 03 LeSabre with ridiculous mileage;
My 2003 Buick LeSabre with 343,452 miles - Auto Owner Story
Auto Owner Story podcast about a vehicle used to travel southern Idaho and eastern Oregon. 2003 Buick LeSabre one of the most reliable cars I’ve ever owned.
autoownerstory.com
I wouldn't pay a big premium for low miles at 20 years old for a commuter. I'd rather pay less for high miles/well maintained. A lot of wear is from short trips, cold starts, and gaskets wear from sitting too long. You might be able to get a much better car with that much money. Perhaps a 1g chevy volt and get a good chunk of that drive done on electric.
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I'd avoid it. Just another headache most likely.
I would try negogiating a lower price. I think their asking price is way too high, especially if the usual items which plague the series 2 have not been replaced yet. Back in 2016, I bought a nice 97 Lesabre w/ 41k miles. Nicest riding car I ever had. HOWEVER,it nickeled and dimed me to death. I had to replace the upper and lower intake manifolds and gaskets. Then the 4T60E transmission started getting harsh along with other items. I sold it two years later. Don't get hung up on its low mileage and overpay. Expect it to have issues. Myself, I wouldn't pay over $3500 and it would have to be a cherry and have excellent tires.. If they won't come way down in price, walk away from the deal.
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A relative bought an 02(?) Lesabre a couple years ago, and it is indeed a great hwy cruiser.
Don't let the low mileage cloud your judgment. Seals and gaskets shrink from infrequent use. Once you start driving it, you will be chasing leaks from every fluid it has. Oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, a/c, coolant. Look for a 2006-12 generation Impala. Similar ride but more modern amenities and better gas mileage, at least with the 3.5. Under 100K examples in the $3-4K range.
Everyone I know has also.
A friend has a 120 mile round trip everyday for work. He bought a 2014 PPV Tahoe with 140K miles from a dealer in N.J. who sells them. Was a supervisor vehicle from down south. He now has over 200K miles with zero issues with no plans on selling it.
All I can say is buy something whether it be a Buick, Corolla, Civic, Malibu or whatever. Your truck will devaluate very quickly driving that many miles every day. I have been doing your plan for years...my F-150 has 55,000 miles and I drive my Civic to work and back when I am not working from home. Your F-150 will stay very nice if you don't drive it much and the Buick or whatever you buy will still be worth something in 5 years.
This is a 10 month old thread but the advice and plan is an excellent one for anyone finding this thread. Hope the OP chimes in to tell us what he got.
Every day, I see a large % of expensive monster trucks (these daily drivers are often over $60K or even $80K) on the roads and most are assuredly daily drivers not being used for their intended designed purpose. This is the concept of using a huge 2x4x8 board to drive a nail, when you just need a regular hammer. Makes no sense.
My philosophy is use the correct tool for the job. And for long-range daily driving, a good or excellent condition, reasonably affordable and fuel efficient modern-ish safe car is the correct tool. Something in the $5000 range, 50k to 150k miles. And around 25mph highway. Drive and maintain that car and it will pay for itself in many ways many times over. A "new" or expensive $20k or $50k car that is marginally more efficient is a poor money decision due to rapid depreciation.
Every day, I see a large % of expensive monster trucks (these daily drivers are often over $60K or even $80K) on the roads and most are assuredly daily drivers not being used for their intended designed purpose. This is the concept of using a huge 2x4x8 board to drive a nail, when you just need a regular hammer. Makes no sense.
My philosophy is use the correct tool for the job. And for long-range daily driving, a good or excellent condition, reasonably affordable and fuel efficient modern-ish safe car is the correct tool. Something in the $5000 range, 50k to 150k miles. And around 25mph highway. Drive and maintain that car and it will pay for itself in many ways many times over. A "new" or expensive $20k or $50k car that is marginally more efficient is a poor money decision due to rapid depreciation.
