'02 Escape with 148k miles Leaking Seals in Engine

[BrandonVA]

Took my new (used) escape to the shop the other day and it apparently has a rear main seal leak, front valve cover leak, and a couple other seals might be leaking. They quoted me over $2300 in labor alone so I do not think I will be having them fix this problem. Most of the leaking started after changing the oil. I used valvoline conventional. Is there a particular kind of oil I should try next? Should I try auto-rx? I'd like to be able to continue to drive this vehicle for a while if possible.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[michaelluscher]

I'd check it all yourself, shops "CAN" pad up a bill unnecessarily.
If its all found to be leaking, I'd start with a High Mileage Oil of the recommended viscosity, IIRC its 5w-20. Then 2-4oz of ATP AT-205.
Available on Amazon for $9.

 

[demarpaint]

I would try a good high mileage oil, and if you plan on trying an additive get some Lubro-Moly Motor Oil Saver and give that a shot.

 

[BrandonVA]

alright, thanks. I'll give that shot and let you know how it turns out.

 

[chubbs1]

My friends 93 Civic had major issues with consumption and leaks. To the tune of 1qt approx 500miles. I used Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w30 for two OCI's very short because the first one burnt up quick. I questioned whether I was just wasting my money. I cut open the first filter and it was loaded with gunk, hard gunk. anyhow I just put in some Peak syn and it is down to burning a qt every 1500 miles conservatively. I am a Mobil 1 High Mileage fanboy now. That stuff cleans. give it a try, no additives necessary. At least not yet anyway.

 

[FL_Rob]

Welcome to bitog! Did you bring it in to the shop just because of these leaks or was there another reason and they just happened to spot them?

They stated a couple other seals "might be" leaking.Were they guessing, or hoping you'd give the go ahead for an engine re-seal.

I'd take a close look at the PCV valve and related hoses fittings, etc.

 

[BrandonVA]

Thank you! I have already learned a lot from this site.

I recently put in a new pcv valve. I brought it into the shop specifically for the leak as I could not figure out where it was coming from. They told me the specific seals leaking but forgot to write it down. I will be picking up the car this morning so I will post it here when I get their estimate.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: BrandonVA
Thank you! I have already learned a lot from this site.

I recently put in a new pcv valve. I brought it into the shop specifically for the leak as I could not figure out where it was coming from. They told me the specific seals leaking but forgot to write it down. I will be picking up the car this morning so I will post it here when I get their estimate.


You're on the right track. Good info in this thread, give the High Mileage oil a shot, and work from there. The Lubro Moly product is a good one. You can give the High Mileage mile oil a shot first and always follow up with the additive. Either way I'd stick with a High Mileage oil for now on since you don't plan on fixing the leaks.

 

[Donald]

I would get any gaskets/seals that are somewhat cheap fixed like the valve cover. Thats a common problem when the engine gets old and the gasket does not seal any more.

Auto-Rx is a thought to try as are High Mileage oils, but not together.

A synthetic oil is also a thought, it will do a decent job of conditioning the seals which may help. May get worse then better however.

Do a good job of cleaning the engine are so oil leaks are easily traced.

Keep in mind, nothing will fix a damaged seal or shaft except new parts.

 

[SatinSilver]

As others have mentioned High Mileage oil and no additives. I'd only use the additives if I were trying to use up some conventional or syn oil.

I had great luck just topping off with Valvoline MaxLife and changing the pcv valve with an oem unit.

 

[itguy08]

Let me guess - 3.0 V6? Wife has an 03 with the 3.0 and 135k and has these leaks...

It's known that the early 3.0's like to leak at the oil pan gasket and front timing cover gasket. Unfortunately it's a PITA to get to the timing cover gasket as you have to take out the valve covers, oil pan, and then the timing cover. You have to replace the crank seal and all those gaskets. It's not a pretty job.

Since you replaced the PCV valve, I'd also check the tube. Hers had a broken front elbow (rubber had cracked) and once I replaced that the erratic idle got fixed pretty quick. It could also leak oil mist which over time and miles would drip.

I've done the oil pan gasket as I thought that was a large leak. It helped somewhat but I think there still may be leaky valve covers and/or front seals. Someday I may fix them but it doesn't really leak on the ground and only uses about a quart every 5k miles.

One thing we've done is switched to a high mileage oil - that helped somewhat.

Another thing we've tried is bumped up to 5w30 from 5w20. That also seems to help a little bit and at 135k the passages are probably opened up enough to be OK.

It all depends on how bad the leaks are if you fix them or not. The biggest PITA would be that front timing cover and then the rear main seal. But if it's not leaking much or using much I'd just live with it. That's what we plan to do as the wife is thinking new car at around 150k.

 

[Danh]

If it's the 3.0 I add a second to the comment that this engine is really shoehorned into the car, making everything difficult. I have a front cover seal leak, and as others have said, this alone is a big job as many, many parts have to be removed to get at the seal.

The HM route may be productive here: I'm trying a course of mostly Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w20. Mobil 1 High Mileage is a little unusual in that the 5w30 is on the "thick" side as you'd expect, but the 5w20 is actually "thinner" than regular M1. Given the age and mileage of yours, a mostly 5w30 M1 regimen may be your best bet; don't be afraid to mix viscosities if you want to thin the 5w30 out a bit.

 

[Astro14]

First, the oil change didn't cause the leak...correlation isn't always causality...so oil itself won't fix all of those leak though an High Mileage might slow a seal leak considerably...

Next, I recommend a "wait and see" approach.

You need a bit more information: How much oil are you using overall? Where does the shop say those leaks are located? What are the repair costs on the easiest to fix?

I found a rear main seal leak on my 4 Runner in 1999. The truck had 90,000 miles on it and the repair estimate was $900...or a full weekend of my time wrestling out the transfer case/transmission.

Now, with 240,000 miles on it, it uses about 1 qt/1,500 miles. Granted, 14 years is a long time to wait, but I've spent a lot less in oil than that repair would have cost...and when I run out of oil that I bought on sale, I might even try a High Mileage oil in it...heck, I might even fix it...

 

[Norm Olt]

The '91 420SEL leaks a very little bit of oil from the rear of the driver's side head gasket. This is external only, no leak between coolant and oil passages. The oil pan gaskets leak a little oil, maybe some from the fitting for the low oil level indicator in the upper pan...

Maybe an ounce a week. Total.

Estimated labor cost to remove heads and pans, replacing gaskets, etc. so no leaks = $1,500-2,000. Might as well get the heads rebuilt while they are off, on a W126 V8 this is the typical engine rebuild as the bottom ends are usually good for 500K+.

Or just live with the ounce per week...

And do the other stuff 50-100K miles later, if needed?

Well, duh!

You need to identify exactly where and how much oil is leaking, insure that there is no oil going into the coolant system (& vice-versa) and then deal with each leak as best you can.

Good Luck!

 

[FZ1]

Try Mobil Super High Mileage 5w30. It's a blend.

 

[wander2039]

Ours has the same leaks. It's had Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 since 40k. Only at .5 quart over a year/10k oci so not planning on doing anything yet. Mobil High Mileage is the best I've found in other cars. Good luck finding it..

 

[BrandonVA]

wow, lots of good ideas here. Thanks for all the feedback. I already ordered auto-rx so I think I will try that and then if it still leaks I will try a high mileage formula. If it still leaks after that I plan to try the at-205 additive. hopefully i won't have to shell out $2000+ to fix it.

 

[fsskier]

Skip the additives and mouse milk and do a little light maintenance first. At highway speeds oil is blown from the original leaking spots to other locations, which can make diagnosis difficult


Are the valve cover bolts tight or loose. Snug them gently.

Pan bolts and gaskets: same thing....do NOT overtorque. Look up the torque specs if you can.....generally they are about a "one wrist on the ratchet twist" not jerked down with all of your strength which will distort your valve cover/oil pan and cause bad leaks.

If all you can fit into these tight spots is a 1/4inch drive ratchet, that is plenty!

There, you have spent no money and tried the most likely things.
As the local "neighborhood mechanic" I have witnessed many estimates for huge repairs for oil leaks.....that were not needed at all.

Worst example: Was asked to look at a neighbor-girl-struggling-college-student's Chevrolet Nova which had a severe loss of auto transmission fluid. A local transmission shop had declared the transmission "shot" and needing a full rebuild, including of course new seals.
The transmission pan bolts were barely finger tight.....likely the gasket had shrunk badly.....snugged them all up....did not replace the gasket....5 minutes of work and.....

NO LEAKS or any other transmission problems of any kind....easily lasted with no problems through college and the first several years of her new career and marriage.

 

[cptbarkey]

pull the engine, get it fixed the right way, move on with life.

 

[SatinSilver]

Originally Posted By: fsskier
Worst example: Was asked to look at a neighbor-girl-struggling-college-student's Chevrolet Nova which had a severe loss of auto transmission fluid. A local transmission shop had declared the transmission "shot" and needing a full rebuild, including of course new seals.
The transmission pan bolts were barely finger tight.....likely the gasket had shrunk badly.....snugged them all up....did not replace the gasket....5 minutes of work and.....

NO LEAKS or any other transmission problems of any kind....easily lasted with no problems through college and the first several years of her new career and marriage.


Wouldn't that be the "best" example.

I love to hear stories like that though.