I am fairly new here and I really can't decide which is the best oil. Up until a few years ago I used castrol 5w30 synthetic in all of my vehicles. I switched to blend to get a protection at a decent cost, however, once I learned how little synth. was in the blend, I switched. i started using 2 qts castrol synth and 2qts conv. ......OK, So I really don't know alot about base oils and additives and was hoping to get some advise. I have been reading for weeks now and am throughly confused and thought I would get some opinions. If you were a short daily driver who changed oil every 3K / 3 months in a toyota Celica would you use Penzoil Platnum 5w30, German Castrol, or Mobile 1 5w30???? Opinions are all welcome and all appreciated.
02 celica PP vs GC vs M1 Synthetic
- Thread starter josalbrec
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which one would you say would protect the best?? I have heard alot about GC and latly alot about PP does anyone have any data on UOA results from these 3??? that would set one apart from the other two???
It depends on what you mean by "protect". In all my time on bitog, i have not ever seen a significant difference in wear metals between synthetic users, and conventional users, if any difference. They're all very good oils. Normally i would say GC or PP since M1 tends to produce above average iron levels in uoa's. But you have a toyota, and Mobil 1 always does very well in toyota engines. I just can't narrow it down and say any one of the three oils will protect better than the other, because they're all very good.
Your wasting your money with full synthetics , this sounds like severe driving . I would use Havoline , Valvoline or Maxlife and change every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Full synthetics WILL NOT protect any better at these oil change intervals.
Mobil 1 is the better oil......
I think each oil has its pluses and minuses. The GC is slightly thicker which is useful if you run a big V8 or engine with somewhat more ring control issues. The PP and Mobil 1 are so close that either is fine in almost any application. Don't believe the line that you don't need synthetic oil. I have had a fine Toyota engine with no sludge issues go at 260,000 miles using the best dino and 3000 mile changes. It burned oil like crazy and was toast at this milage. I have a Honda Engine on synthetics and as I approach 200,000 it burns no oil and runs as new. The toyota had started to burn oil at 160,000 or less. Just my experience with dino oils.
He doesn't need synthetic. You're comparison is flawed. If you had two identical engines, run under identical conditions, one with dino, one synthetic, then maybe you'd have a valid argument. Two different engines, produced by different manufacturers, and whatnot doesn't mean a whole lot. It could just mean honda makes a better motor than toyota.
Toyota 4 cylinder engines seem to like the Mobil M1. My '01 Toyota Solara runs like a top with it. Good UOA too.
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Patman
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Dino oil has improved dramatically in the last couple of years though.
I would use the PP simply because it would be more cost effective, not necessarily the best, but it would serve you very well for shorter intervals like that at the best price. Nice car btw. GT-S?
I take it you have an older system in your car that does NOT have an OLM/MMS system that tells you how many miles your car can go on the oil it was spaced for at Factory. Then, all you would have to do is see how long your oil is "typically" averaging for its OCIs. Mine is 5-5.5k so I use an oil that I know can get me to that point under severe schedule climate but can also do it with the car being mildly abused by racing and lots of short trips under short notice or just a lots of short trips and minimal or miniscule freeway driving(which, in my experience, extended OCIs way past 5-5.5k in these OLM/MMS systems) The problem is these systems do not actually know if the oil is actually protecting, its just a formula based on the factory spaced oil and therefore does not know or recognize when your car is not being protected. For example, when I pulled the MC out of my car, the gas mileage has dropped significantly but my MMS was still at 30% for 5200 miles under MC. My mileage had dropped from 26 mpg to about 19-21 mpg. With full synthetic, I am getting back up to 24 mpg on the first full tank of the PP and not only do I expect to stay pretty consistent no matter how I drive but I expect to do it for the full 5-6k OCI without a hitch versus being left with your pants down by 5k with lesser oils like blends. When your TBN is at 1 or below, your add packs has depleted and thus your gas mileage begins to suffer even though your car is still being protected according to this system.
Bottom line is you can use any of these oils as they will all protect you really well but a better question you need to know what the baseline is for certain oils in your particular car.
Price and availability is also a factor. I will pay much less for PP versus M1 for about the same performance so it's a wash. You car's oil may lose viscosity but these intrusive system will still think the oil is good based on what it is spaced for from factory or what the car manful recommends in your manual.
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There is no advantage to using any syn oil at your oil change intervals .You are throwing $$$ down the toilet
WOW!! I really appreciate all of the advice and imput. I wondered what anyone thought about castrol 5w30 syn uoa since that is the factory spec or PP 5w30. I have been reading about PP and am a little turned around about the whole "true" synthetic and certainly don't want to open a can of worms here. I guess with my driving pattern my main concern is that there are days I get to work and the engine hasn't even had the opportunity to warm up yet because I am so close. I thought that would be nice, and for fuel economy reasons I am elated, however, I am sure my engine is wondering what is going on. I need an oil that will "protect" or "quickly circulate" and "adhere" to an engine at start up and for the short 3 mile trip. (please forgive the VERY novice terms. I know the molecular structure of oil doesn't stick, the ions are charged in such a way that they attract to the oppositly charged ions in the metalic surfaces within the engine and so forth and so on, however, Again I am really new at this stuff and need help)I really want to switch to SYN and am open for any suggestions out there, I just ask that availability be local retal such as autozone, walmart, advance, etc. I am not going to order 12 cases of royal purple and store it in my garage (yet) Although.....My wife has been concerned I have been reading a website about oil for almost a month straight though.....
tr3 - If someone else made your post, wold you not see the flawed logic?
I will say that when I went from 2 qts Castrol 5w30 syn+2qts dyno to same blend of mobile 1 the engine seemed to idle smoother. Maybe Greg L. Is right and toyota engines like Mobile 1. I may try just straight syn mobile 1 and see what happens. I was going to try straight GC, however, I haven't seen it in a while at Autozone and I don't know about getting involved in the cultish search for the stuff or driving to canada for a case. Although..... The autozone by my house still says it carries it, they are just out. My only concern is that the factory spec is 5w30 and the viscosity is different. Toyota's have pretty high tollerances on EVERYTHING and when you start messin'... I would still like to hear any other suggestions or thoughts on brands, viscosity and reasons why if anyone has the time. I enjoy learning.....Thank you again ...Joe
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