02/2000 BMW M5 needs oil please help

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spoolin51

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I need to do an oil change on my 00 BMW M5. I understand that BMW recommends castrol TWS 10w-60. This oil costs approximately $15 a quart and I need about 8qts. My engine does consume about a quart of oil every 500 miles (this is supposed to be normal on the earlier models hence why bmw strictly recommends 10w-60 but is that just a marketing strategy ?). I was thinking about going with royal purple 20w 50 or 10w 40. My motor has about 120k miles on it and is located in Chicago IL. I do drive the car hard sometimes and would like this forums opinion on which oil is best for my motor. Please help.
Thanks guys
 
I would stick with the 10w60 TWS. I believe the earlier motors had different piston ring clearances. JMO
 
I'm generally of the somewhat 'antagonistic' opinion that if you own a high-end auto like a BMW M5, you should pony up for the oil it needs.

That said, on a 120k mile M5 where a warranty isn't a concern, I too would be looking for a cheaper alternative. I would stay with a 50-weight, and not go lower.

In all honesty, with THAT much consumption, I'd be inclined to try an inexpensive dino or syn-blend 20W-50. If you're adding a quart every 500 miles, the oil isn't getting very 'old'. I'd get myself some Valvoline Maxlife 20W-50, and see how it does.
 
Thanks for the quick response.
I spend over 200$ in oil monthly including the oil change (which I do myself) and it honestly does get old. It seems that the BMW guys are quite anal about using 10w-60. I just wanted a unbiased opinion on what bmw recommends for the car vs whats practical. And if so, what is the sacrifice?
Is 20w 50 much different than 10w 60?
I understand the first numbers are the cold weight of the oil. my concern with the 20w 50 is the cold start(am I more likely to spin a rod bearing) and when the oil is hot does it provide the same amount of protection as the 10w 60?
thankyou for your time.
 
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Red Line offers a 10w-60 now.
You can get it shipped from racer parts wholesale for $10.50 a quart. If you pick it up in Indy it drops down to 9.36 a quart.

This time of year the 10w/20w rating shouldn't make too much difference.
 
Its changing its own oil every 4000 miles. You dont need an oil change. Just change the filter at the OEM recommended intervals.

THE 10W-60 Actually had to do with spun bearings at 300F oil temps. If you keep your oil temps down it will survive on 30 weight. A BMW Engineer actually stated it would survive just fine on Synthetic 5W-30 on the street if you were an easy driver.

I would consider running a heavy 40 weight thats tough to shear if it was mine. That would be a HDEO like Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 or Mobil TDT 5W-40 or Delvac 1. Dont buy any of the Euro Formula stuff like M1 0W-40 as they tend to shear into the 30 Weight Range.

JMO. Use at your own risk.
 
Originally Posted By: shanneba
Red Line offers a 10w-60 now.
You can get it shipped from racer parts wholesale for $10.50 a quart. If you pick it up in Indy it drops down to 9.36 a quart.

This time of year the 10w/20w rating shouldn't make too much difference.


If it were mine, that's what I'd be running. Great oil, and $5 per quart cheaper will add up! I'd also just change the filter at the oem intervals since you are constantly adding so much new oil. I can't believe those things burn that much, I'm surprised!
 
Originally Posted By: spoolin51
Thanks for the quick response.
I spend over 200$ in oil monthly including the oil change (which I do myself) and it honestly does get old. It seems that the BMW guys are quite anal about using 10w-60. I just wanted a unbiased opinion on what bmw recommends for the car vs whats practical. And if so, what is the sacrifice?
Is 20w 50 much different than 10w 60?
I understand the first numbers are the cold weight of the oil. my concern with the 20w 50 is the cold start(am I more likely to spin a rod bearing) and when the oil is hot does it provide the same amount of protection as the 10w 60?
thankyou for your time.

Castrol syntec is available in 5W50, at a quart per 500 miles I don't think you'll have any problems with it shearing down. Also what is your hard driving? Going through the first 3 gears on the street? Even drag racing shouldn't bring up oil temps too much. Doing a track day will get the oil temps way up there so an oil problem is possible, normal street shinanigans shouldn't.
 
Amsoil 'ARO' 20W-50 would probably be a really good option for this engine. It is a thick 50-weight at 18.9cst; and it will be much, much less expensive if ordered at PC prices in quantity.

Amosil also make 'AHR', their straight-60 weight racing oil. If you look at the specs, it is actually much closer to being a '20W-60'. It's much more expensive that ARO, but if you insist on a 60-weight, it's an option.

Finally, they also have Dominator 15W-50; but it is a very thin 50-weight, and is more expensive than ARO, so it's probably not a 'great' option. IF you were going with that, I'd recommend M1 15W-50.
 
I dont drag race the car Oil temps stay around 250 usually under that mark though. I do Hard acceleration through the first 3 gears but not on a daily basis. This car does not see the track at all. I just want to find an oil that provides the same protection if not more than the castrol tws 10 60.
 
Originally Posted By: spoolin51
I dont drag race the car Oil temps stay around 250 usually under that mark though. I do Hard acceleration through the first 3 gears but not on a daily basis. This car does not see the track at all. I just want to find an oil that provides the same protection if not more than the castrol tws 10 60.


5W-50 or 15W-50. Actually, M1 15W-50 will probably Mop the Floor with a 10W-60, that oil people say it breaks down to a 5W-50 VERY Fast. And it just may be your Oil!
thumbsup2.gif


Even Porsche updated their Specs to 5W-50 and such.

Based on your Post, i think M1 15W-50 is pulling ahead in the Race for your Car's Oil...
 
I also used M1 15 50 in my track Porsche. Once while at the dealer a knowledgeable racer told me that the european M1 is different than the M1 we get here in the US. He suggested it was a over marketed product. From that point I went to vr1 racing oil because it was high in zddp. For this season I have a fresh fully built bored 106mm darton sleeved motor and am thinking of using redline as my motor oil. However, I will say I never had any problems with M1 in my last motor.
 
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This is probably a stupid question, but does it burn oil at a linear rate i.e. a quart every 500 miles, or does it just burn off that first quart in 500 miles? Or do you know?

I ask because I had a Lycoming that would throw off its first quart of oil in a couple of hours, and then would settle into a more normal consumption rate of a quart every seven or eight hours thereafter.

For some reason, it was an engine that just wanted to be a quart low.
 
Originally Posted By: spoolin51
Is the amsoil you are referring to a synthetic?


ALL Amsoil oils are synthetic.

The ones I'm refering to are also group IV/V oils....
 
SynPower 20w-50 or Syntec 5w-50 in winter. The 10w-60 shears to a 50 quite rapidly anyway. Many people race M3s on the Syntec 5w-50, no problem.

You can get away with 5w-40 in winter if you don't hammer it. Keep an eye on the oil temp, don't let it exceed +100c w/40 weight.

M1 15w-50 is a big skip. I have a Master BMW Mechanic of MANY years who also holds a full competition licence who is my source on that one. Heaven forbid I just state my opinion.
 
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