00 Lexus ES300 sludge @ 160K - Pics

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I have this 1MZFE 3.0L in my 2003 Toyota Sienna.
The longer oil filter that I like right now is the Bosch Distance Plus D3422.
Bosch & Purolator are made by the same company.....the Distance Plus being even better than the Pure One.....thicker metal for can and slightly better filter media (more dirt holding capacity).
The Longer Pure One is PL20195, which is still a great filter.
I particularly like the pressure bypass on the Distance Plus.
The FRAM XG3600 is also a good filter......it is the X2, or Extended Guard filter.
I am not big on the other FRAM filters, but the XG is very good.
The WIX number for the longer filter is 51516.
The WIX website gives you the specifications & dimensions so that you can compare thread size, etc.

I have had the valve covers off of mine....changed the spark plugs....and some other things.
Getting that rear valve cover off requires that the upper intake manifold be removed......and it is supported at the back by a bunch of bolts....etc.
Here is a link to a folder of pictures from my 2003 Sienna that will be of help in working on the engine.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/576572371kcnZsT?navtype=search

In 2003, they started using a metal PCV valve that screws into the rear valve cover....the older 1MZFE engines had the traditional press in version that is located in the same spot.
A good PCV valve is mandatory.

The valve covers have a baffel mounted on the underside that can become clogged.....hard sludge between the baffel and the top of the valve cover.....blocking the airflow that is CRITICAL to maintaining a sludge free engine.
These baffels are spot welded in place.
The solution for this is to replace the valve covers with NEW ones.
I randomly selected a online parts department listing.....and it looks like they are just under $220 each.
Toyota (Lexus) calls them "cylinder head cover".
You will need to research using your VIN as they list a couple different numbers without using a VIN.
I know that is is expense and bother to change the valve covers....but if they are clogged up.......it is what you have to do to get that engine breathing again....and you cannot clean that caked on junk out of there with a solvent wash.....etc.
I used Fel-Pro "PermaDry" brand for valve cover gaskets.

If you order any parts from an online dealership (or a traditional walk-in dealership), make SURE to use the VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) to assure that you get the correct part.

You may have to clean that oil pick-up screen a few more times.....so be SUPER careful driving this vehicle until you get things cleaned up.

For spark plugs.....I would use EXACLTY the plug number listed in the owner's manual (you should be able to get a copy from the Lexus website......as well as any dealership service records for FREE).
They may list both a DENSO and NGK number.
I would avoid the smaller 0.4mm electrode "power plus" plugs and stick with the standard 0.7mm electrode size.
I read up on the DENSO aftermarket website, and the 0.7mm plug (like the PK20TR11 plug I see listed for your vehicle) is rated "over" 60K miles.
For the "power plus" 0.4mm......in the FAQ section......they state that the "Power Plus" plugs are rated at 30K miles.
My 2003 uses a different plug number.....

Longer filter next to stock size.


Bosch Distance Plus opened up.


Pressure bypass valve in Bosch Distance Plus filter. The button in the middle of the top end plate has a coil spring behind it.
I like the location of the bypass valve for this engine because any particles that settle down to the bottom will not be drawn in when this opens.
 
I have 2006 camry v6 1mz-fe engine like the one you have 00 lexus es300. Lexus suppose to be better right ??

I think the owner is not doing it right when it came to maintenance..

My camry v6 is 260,000 miles and keep going.

so I recommend you start using oil filter like Toyota OEM, WIX.. shorter OCI.
 
Thanks for the detailed post. We will look into this because my son needs to replace the knock sensors. If this engine continues to have good oil pressure the knock sensor job is next. The bad knock sensors keep the car from dropping into over drive.
The valve cover upgrade would be indicated at this time because the intake has to be removed to replace the knock sensors.
Not to flame a brand but there were 2 qts of Walmart Synthetic 5w-30 in the trunk. I believe this issue was part engineering and OCI's that were too long.
 
Originally Posted By: BigBird57
Not to flame a brand but there were 2 qts of Walmart Synthetic 5w-30 in the trunk. I believe this issue was part engineering and OCI's that were too long.


Well, Walmart synthetic replaced at a reasonable OCI would not have done this. In fact that might be a good recommendation for this engine.

The problem was that the oil was in the trunk and not the crankcase...
 
The knock sensors prevent it from going into overdrive? Is that a known issue where a code being set prevents O/D?

That seems odd.

I have seen issues where there is a low coolant temperature limit (~140ish) that locks out O/D which can cause an intermittent O/D function due to a bad or missing thermostat or bad coolant temp sensor (not the one that drives the gauge).
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Artem
My guess is that someone followed the 7,500 mile factory OCI recommendation using el cheapo dino with an even cheaper oil filter.
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My dad had a friend do this to a Toyota Avalon. It destroyed the engine with sludge.

Anyway, when I work on such cars when the oil was changed every 3,000 miles, the engines would have heavy varnish but no sludge.
 
I don't think the 2000 model year had the VVT system.
VVT stands for Variable Valve Timing.....the 'i' stands for "intelligence".....meaning computer controlled.
The VVT system has a small screen filter for each phaser.
You can get the screen filters through the dealership.
Oil pressure is used to alter the phase of the intake cam relative to the output cam.....This is all controlled by the computer.
Again....I don't think that the 2000 had it....but I could be wrong.
The fat part on the driver's end gear of the intake cam im my picture (top right of picture) is the VVT phaser......if you don't have that fat part on that gear.....you don't have VVT.



The knock sensors.....as you have found out....are a major pain in the *** to replace.
I have not had to do that on mine....but read the factory instructions on this.
I don't know what fuel they call for in the owner's manual.....my Toyota calls for a minimum of 87 octane...."but for improved performance.... octane of 91 or higher is recommended".
I use Premium in mine....and it does run better.....only very slight impact on fuel economy....but it does run better......the knock sensors will cause the computer to delay timing to accept the 87 octane fuel......without harm to the engine.
Just my experience.....although I would be just fine using the 87 octane as many millions of other 1MZFE engines are doing.

My 2003 also has coolant hoses going to the throttle body, so be aware of that.

Obviously....if you are taking things apart.....I would CERTAINLY put new spark plugs in......as those rear 3 are a lot of work to access (at least they are on my 2003 which has a coil on each plug.....as you can see in the picture above.....so removal of the upper intake manifold/throttle body was a must).
As I mentioned in the post above....I recommend using ONLY the spark plug number called for on the emissions label under the hood or in the owner's manual.

The timing belt is due for changing every 90K miles......I had mine done as is it a lot of work.
I had the water pump replaced at the same time.......as it is driven by the timing belt....so the labor of the water pump includes all the labor of the timing belt.
Pricing around.....the local dealership was over $100 cheaper than the local independant shop......just over $500 for belt and water pump and coolant to replace what came out.

Other fluids.....I expect that your 2000 will be the same here as my 2003.

Coolant.....Toyota RED (not pink)....is a unique chemistry (the additive package)......I prefer to stick with this.
I drain & fill...nothing exotic.....it IS ethylene glycol base, so don't let it spill and lay where pets can get at it as it is poison to them.

Transmission fluid.....A fluid that meets Dexron III specification.......I spend a bit here...and use Red Line D4 ATF.
There are many other options here.....I DO prefer a fully synthetic ATF for better heat tollerance and better cold flow.
As you can see in my pictures....the in-pan filter has just a nylon screen inside it.....so I added a Magnefine filter to the cooler line.
I also added a auxillary cooler for the transmission.....minivan is heavier than a car....and I tow a small utility trailer once in a while in the mountains.
In your case.....I would get the other bugs worked out before doing more than just changing the fluids and other routine maintenance.

Power Steering fluid....Automatic Transmission fluid.....that meets the Dexron III specification.
That is correct....ATF.
The factory stuff did not have the red dye in it....but it is ATF.

I have a subscription to alldata, a online version of the factory service manual.
Most of what is in the factory manual will be found there....and they update it with Technical Service Buletins (TSBs) and Recalls as they are released by Toyota.
I DO recommend this, or something equivalent if you are going to be working on your own vehicle.
This is also where I read and decide if I am going to try to do the job myself.....or take it to a shop for them to do.
 
As for thermostat.....my 2003 Sienna uses a 180 degree thermostat.
My pictures show the thermostat being changed.
Mine suddenly started regulating at 165 degrees....not really noticable on the temperature gauge, but the heat was not as hot.
I monitored the coolant temperature using my Scangauge connected to the OBDII port.
This is how I know that it was regulating at the cooler temperature.
I bought a genuine Toyota thermostat.

Another note......particularly when buying online.....Many Toyota parts are right inline with what aftermarket parts are selling for....very reasonable in price.
I would stick with Genuine Toyota/Lexus for thermostat, PCV valve and some other parts.
Oil filters and brake pads/rotors.....etc.....I find high quality aftermarket parts.
 
Yes,
The code points to bad knock sensors and this is a known issue with the overdrive engagement. Right now that is the least of his worries. He is aware of the coolant hose that runs under the intake. That is another engineering marvel from Toyota.
 
That hose is likely in very good condition. I changed out mine about 3 years ago (when the car was about 10 years old) and like the radiator hoses that I replaced, they were in like-new condition. Not hardened nor swollen. After 10 years it's not a bad idea to change them but they were in very good condition.

What's the other engineering marvel you are referring to? Seriously, that car has been neglected since day one.

Do you have any links about the knock sensor/overdrive "issue"? As a 1MZ-FE owner myself I would be interested in reading that.

Originally Posted By: BigBird57
Yes,
The code points to bad knock sensors and this is a known issue with the overdrive engagement. Right now that is the least of his worries. He is aware of the coolant hose that runs under the intake. That is another engineering marvel from Toyota.
 
There are two know to us as new owners. The PCV ( contributing to sludge formation) and the knock sensors. The coolant hose running underneath the intake is a poor location. I would have tried to run it outside to where it could be readily serviced.
The former owners sent us the service records and as many here suspected the drain intervals were 10 to 12K.
The good news is we are still running fine. We are cautiously optimistic.
 
Originally Posted By: BigBird57
There are two know to us as new owners. The PCV ( contributing to sludge formation) and the knock sensors. The coolant hose running underneath the intake is a poor location. I would have tried to run it outside to where it could be readily serviced.
The former owners sent us the service records and as many here suspected the drain intervals were 10 to 12K.
The good news is we are still running fine. We are cautiously optimistic.




10-12k runs on Conventional or Synthetic oil is not a good idea for the 1MZ-FE motor.
 
Originally Posted By: BigBird57
+1 for sure



Heck I wont even do that on my 3MZ-FE. Just too much of a twin Cousin for me.
 
Yuck. . . 10 to 12k on dino in Florida is too long.

You can easily clean the gunk out of the oil pan next time it's off with lye-based oven cleaner (sodium hydroxide). Wear gloves and eye protection. Over time it will completely emulsify everything, even the baked-on crusty stuff. It'll turn it to goo and you can then wipe it out or use water to wash it away. Repeat until it's clean metal again. You can also clean out the oil pickup tube and screen with this.

Spray it all down and let it foam up an hour. Drag a popsicle stick across the bottom of the pan to see how it's going. If the metal itself is hot, it'll work faster. Put it in the Sun or fill the pan with HOT water and let it sit to heat up the metal. Then dump out the water.....

Be very careful if you hose it off so that none of the spray slings lye onto you! It'll eat your skin as well.

At least the pan & pickup & screen will be clean so the cleaning detergents in the new oil will last longer. Good luck!
 
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