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I wish the new Tundras had the reliability of these Tundras because I’d love to buy one, but I can’t bring myself to chance it on these newer ones. I find oil consumption interesting because it can vary so much due to weather temps and types of commutes, but I’ve been pleasantly surprised with...

Mobil 1 should make a short interval oil (for the people that insist on changing it every 3,000). Rebadge their EP lineup and call it…Mobil 1 SI…and jack the price up $3. Mobil 1 SI (short, for short intervals)

Regarding Restore and Protect = I think the best thing about this oil is you don’t have to exactly stick with it for life if cleaning an engine is what you’re looking for. If you’re into rebates/sales/clearances oils, you can continue to do so - and then when you feel like cleaning, run R+P for...

I’d be more concerned the guy is going to open his hood and realize his new car also takes 0W20.

Honestly, if this engine can’t handle 6,000 mile oil change intervals using Mobil 1 (whatever) with a commute that easy…sell the thing.

I know, but I go through these weird phases where oil changes mean a lot to me, and then…not so much. This engine is pretty forgiving and easy on oil.

2016 Toyota Avalon 174,000 miles. In Went cheap this time…4 quarts Super Tech 5W30, 1 Quart Valvoline 5w20, 1 quart Mobil 0W40 FS. Cheap Super Tech filter Out 6 Quarts Mobil 1 ESP 5W30/Super Tech Filter — 8,000 mile interval, no top ups.

I’ve gone through so many phases in my oil journey, but I’d probably settle on Mobil 1 ESP 0W30. Problem is, like I said, I go through phases…from Mobil 1 products, to boutique, to low cost on sale stuff/house brands with a coupon. And right now I’m back on frankenbrews. Just changed my oil on...

It’s never helped me with anything but draining my wallet.

Isn’t Amalie owned by a company in Tampa Bay? I want to say theyre used to sponsor the Buccaneers stadium. I’ve used it before - the garage I used to work at carried it exclusively - never an issue with my own personal cars or customers. Then again, ost any oil nowadays is not going to give...

It would have to be leaking pretty bad for me to drop the engine, but these are great engines..and honestly these aren’t that bad of an engine to drop. If I ever did, I’d change out the water pump, timing cover gasket and drivers side control arm (those are pain to get out with the engine in...

I think for most people, they see European formula and immediately look away, not realizing what it is, or caring what it is. And just grab the extended drain oil for a couple bucks more, because a couple bucks more doesn’t amount to much in today’s day and age. I mean, I can’t even buy a drink...

Great engines. Unfortunately you’ll probably need those plugs changed soon and it’s a little bit of a pain to do.

Yeah, lot of highway miles. I’m probably averaging more like 20,000-24,000…I’m not the original owner - bought it in late 2020 with only 50,000 on it. I’ve kept up with the transmission services and coolant pretty religiously. I’ve done a brake fluid flush too, come to think of it I’m due for...

2016 Toyota Avalon. Now at 172,000 miles. No repairs, just regular maintenance (tires, brakes, fluid changes, serpentine belt, plugs, filters). 10,000 mile oil change intervals using Mobil 1 and few other brands occasionally. Doesn’t use a drop between changes. Not a single check engine...

I’m at 180,000 in my Toyota, not a single rattle, shake or check engine light. 10,000 mile oil changes using the “wrong viscosity” and usually whatever synthetic oil is on sale at Walmart (but right now I’ve consecutively done 5 oil changes using Mobil1). I’ve also used some higher end stuff...

It’s not a difficult job? Depending on the engine you may be removing two valve covers, four camshafts, chain guides and maybe a tensioner. Some the entire timing cover may have to come off. Not exactly something most would attempt to tackle at home. This is a $700-$4,000 dollar job depending...

Regarding is that varnish? , is that not varnish? — Keep in mind these are both low mileage engines, one shows no signs of anything to question at all, the other (out of all those photos), shows one, possibly two where it does to appear there is something forming. I don’t consider that “bad”...

There are a lot of factors contributing to oil consumption/varnish/sludge in modern engines…starting with direct injection, followed by low tension rings, followed by piston design (specifically drain back holes and piston grooves), add in turbos and hotter running oil, and throw in longer...

Truthfully I’ve been using Mobil 1 products pretty religiously for the past 2-3 years and all of my engines look spotless (Toyota and Mercedes). The Mercedes has always run 0W40 FS, and the Toyota has run regular Mobil 1, Mobil 1 Extended Performance, and now I’m running Mobil 1 ESP. Not a spec...