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I had a Lexus LS 460 years ago and at around 115,000 it started using some oil, then by 150,000 a little worse…by 170,000 it was burning a quart every 600 miles or so. A lot of oil tracking back up into the intake. Rings were either shot or stuck. I do wonder if this miracle magic oil would have...

Tell you what, that guy that told you it’s not a safety concern as of right now?? I’d get a second opinion on that thing because if I’m not mistaken, where that hole is the lower control arm is bolted pretty close to the area. If I remember. And if that’s the case you could potentially have an...

I just don’t think there’s much of a difference between any of these name brand licensed oils right now, they’ve all improved so much. I’ve done 10,000 mile intervals using Mobil1 and 10,000 intervals using Amsoil SS…both performed almost identical. I’m talking within 1 ppm in all wear metals...

2016 Toyota Avalon. 166,700 miles, 8,500 on the oil. Out — Mobil1 0W30 ESP/Super Tech filter In — Mobil1 0W30 ESP/Super Tech filter ZERO oil used/added

Consider yourself lucky, my car takes 6.4 quarts and I’d much prefer to just buy that lone five quart container. Instead I have to dig into my stash for the remainder. But no, draining a quart and adding a fresh quart isn’t a bad thing…probably would be worthwhile extending the interval past...

I’m assuming you’re talking about where the bottom of the strut is attached? That is a nut on a welded stud to that dead axle frame. Just remove the nut. The strut itself may be hard to remove from that stud, as the metal sleeve on the strut bushing loves to attach itself to that stud. I...

I think you may be in luck, from the looks of that photo of the strut, the bottom strut mount that contains the spring broke. You may only need to replace the entire strut.

Personally, what I prefer with dealing with a situation like this is to take the long trip at the end of the interval…that way I know I ended the interval by squeezing out as much as I can out of that oil before changing it. But that’s just me.

Tell you what, I’ve been using Mobil1 0W30 ESP for 8,500 miles now on an interval, it’s the only oil I’ve ever used in my engine that has seemingly not used a drop of oil in that duration. Now, my engine is pretty tight/doesn’t use much oil, but I’ve never seen no noticeable drop on the stick...

I’m sure there are thousands of people that have run GTL for hundreds of thousands of miles. Just like there are thousands of people that have run vehicles that long on Supertech conventional (I being one of them years ago). I wouldn’t sweat any of these major brands, or house brands.

That’s right, I forgot about the driver’s door wiring issues. I repaired mine, not a big deal but a little tight…added a couple inches of wire so it wouldn’t happen again. So far so good.

My son has a 2011 with the 3.6 Pentastar, it now has 140,000 on it. Knock on wood no engine/tranny problems yet. I have changed the plugs, that was a royal pain in the rear. The blend door passenger motor is broken. The radio cuts out - there is a solder fix but I haven’t done it yet. The rear...

Take it back. Yet I feel as if taking it back won’t be as easy as you think from a dealer that just sold you a vehicle that has been in an accident (and didn’t disclose it). Accidents happen, cars degrade, BUT YOU want to be THE ONE doing the damage and degrading when you’re paying $40,000...

It’s a tough question, but if it’s going to be a daily driver/commuter, I would not buy something with over 75,000 miles on it simply because I drive 25,000 miles a year. I four years I’ll be at 175,000 and heading into the 200,000 mile range. I might consider an extremely reliable Toyota with...

I’m pretty it’s just a Toyota Matrix through and through.

Truth is, most places you go will have their low level/beginner techs doing the oil changes, even the Mercedes dealership. So don’t worry about it. At least at a place that only does oil changes will most likely have someone experienced doing the oil change. And unlike a shop or dealership you...

I was wondering when someone was going to jump on the Restore and Protect marketing bandwagon. Good for Mobil1 for doing so. Truth is, most people that buy oil don’t know or really care about Restore and Protect (except us here and a few engine oil junkies), so it’ll be interesting to see if...

Wasn’t the V6 Pentastar initially spec’d for 5W30 anyway? Before the never ending quest for a tenth of a mpg improvement? Unless there has been some drastic change with that engine, I’d say 5W30 is fine.

Good report. You must have a tougher commute than me, I’ve done two analysis’s on this engine with my own car (2016 Avalon) using Mobil1 0W20 EP and Amsoil Signature series 5W30 both for 10,000 mile runs, and my total wear metals came out to 9 ppm on both oils. Amsoil 5w30 — 5ppm aluminum and...

2016 Toyota Avalon. 165,000 miles on the unit. Mobil1 0W30 ESP (7,000 miles on the oil). Probably run it for 2,000 more. Zero usage.