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My thoughts exactly. My hope is that the factory is shooting for a 10w40 and that if the fuel dilution goes away then the oil will come in at a grade 40. At $16/L I'm not going to use this fancy Swiss juice for 1000 miles OCIs! I can't really explain the fuel dilution. I took the bike out for a...

Originally Posted By: Brybo86 10 oz makeup? How much oil does it hold? 2.OL with filters. The 10 oz was two separate doses. Doesn't seem bad for a 67 HP thumper. Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack You must stop what you're doing and immediately ship that bike to me to complete the break-in...

I had these symptoms with my 92 Accord LX. It was a cracked solder joint on a relay. Fuel pump as I recall but it could have been the main relay. IT was located under the dash on the driver's side left.

I also found a couple of climbers in the icefall. Very cool. Thanks for posting.

Integrated Development Environment.

Another option is two stoke oil. I think 1 oz per 5 gal is the ratio to increase the lubricity of gasoline.

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude where did you get that filter cutter? I want one Longacre Racing I had to modify mine to do small filters. Used a mill to make the adjustment slot longer.

On a somewhat related note I was looking at some homemade mtn. bike lighting wiring the other day and saw some clever use of heat shrink and hot melt glue. Heat shrink over a connector body and back fill the pins with hot melt. Then hit the heat shrink with a gun. Careful not to get hot melt...

You can always mix up 5 gallons out of quarts/gallons and do the VOA on that. Lot-to-lot variation will be nullified. I think that will accomplish what you are after.

You nailed the personality of the klr250. Put 4K miles on an 05 before getting the 650. Had a lot of fun on that bike learning to ride again. Had a problem with deer as the bike was so quiet I startled many of them. The 650 with an FMF solved that problem Really like my crf250r for the...

Originally Posted By: sunruh you dont see enough heat in oregon to need a 20w50. and unless you are riding in below 32 you dont need a 5w either. steve Perhaps not for the engine but I like the way the gearbox feels with grade 50. True enough about needing a 5W but the way the bike turns...

I usually run SRT but wanted to test out the M1. I like the way it shifts (when fresh) better than the SRT but by 1500 miles the shift quality had degraded and oil consumption was going up. The report shows 9 oz of makeup oil and all of that was after 1500 miles. At the oil change the bike...

Oil has sheared to a grade 30! Previous run of oil was also Mobile 1 15W/50 as well so I don't think that accounts for the low viscosity. Usage was about 1000 miles of fairly aggressive logging road riding, about 1000 miles of back road cruising with the tach at 4-6K RPM, and about 500 miles of...

Originally Posted By: xxch4osxx Those of us who live in rural areas don't have to worry about bathing in or drinking fluoridated water, thankfully. Flouride is a toxic compound to humans. If it is so "safe", Id like to see someone at the water treatment plant take a cupful of the fluoride they...

I ran a 1990 in Spec Miata for a few years and changed my oil every third race or so. Most folks changed it every race weekend but I always felt that was way overkill. I have seen a UOA on PP that had four race weekends on it and the oil was doing just fine. On an 80-90F day my oil temps...

Many rotors have a couple of threaded holes in them that you can thread a bolt into and press the rotor off the hub. I keep a couple of grade 12.9 M8 metric bolts around just for this purpose.

I have a 2005 Tundra DC and at my first diff fluid change used M1 lube and experienced chatter. Added a tube of CRC LS additive and it went away. On the next fluid change I switched to Redline and don't seem to need an additive with it. Ken